Mondulkiri & Ratanakiri

Mondulkiri — The Land of Elephants

Mondulkiri is Cambodia's largest and least populated province — on an area larger than Schleswig-Holstein, only 90,000 people live. The landscape is unlike anywhere else in Cambodia: Instead of flat rice fields, you find a hilly plateau (600–900 m) with pine forests, grasslands, waterfalls, and dense tropical forest.

The provincial capital Sen Monorom (approx. 10,000 inhabitants) is a sleepy village with a natural lake in the middle, dusty streets, and a handful of guesthouses and restaurants. It is the perfect starting point for elephant projects and jungle tours.

Elephant Projects — Ethical and Unforgettable

Mondulkiri is the center of ethical elephant tourism in Cambodia. Several projects offer the opportunity to encounter rescued working elephants in their natural environment — without riding, without chains, without tricks.

Elephant Valley Project (EVP)

The most well-known and reputable project in Cambodia. The EVP has repurchased a 1,500-hectare forest area from loggers and offers rescued working elephants a life in freedom. Visitors hike with a guide through the forest and observe the elephants in their natural activities — feeding, bathing, mud bathing, socializing.

• Day Visit: 75 USD/person (incl. transport from Sen Monorom, lunch, English-speaking guide, hike with elephant observation)
• 2-Day Program: 120 USD (overnight in the jungle camp, deeper forest experience)
• Booking: Required in advance online (elephantvalleyproject.org) — often booked out 2–3 days in advance!

Other Projects

• Mondulkiri Project: Similar concept to EVP, slightly cheaper (55 USD/day). Less known, therefore fewer visitors.
• Bunong Elephant Project: Run by the indigenous Bunong community. Authentic, personal, smaller groups.

Bou Sra Waterfall

The largest waterfall in Cambodia — two tiers: the upper (12 m) and the lower (25 m). 35 km east of Sen Monorom on a partly unpaved road. Spectacular in the rainy season, less impressive in the dry season. Entrance: 1 USD. Tuk-Tuk: 15–20 USD return.

Bunong Indigenous People

The Bunong (Pnong) are the largest indigenous minority in Cambodia and the original inhabitants of Mondulkiri. They live in traditional longhouses, practice animism, and have had a close relationship with elephants (as working animals) for centuries. Some villages can be visited — best with a local guide who speaks the language and can mediate culturally. Respectful behavior is a given.

Ratanakiri — The Last Wilderness

Ratanakiri (Province of Gems and Mountains) is Cambodia's wildest and most inaccessible province. Dense tropical forest, red laterite roads, waterfalls, a volcanic lake, and indigenous communities that preserve their traditional way of life. For adventurers, Ratanakiri is the Cambodia that will disappear in 10 years — deforestation and plantations are consuming the jungle.

Ban Lung — The Provincial Center

The provincial capital Ban Lung (approx. 30,000 inhabitants) is a dusty market town that serves as a base for excursions. Here you will find guesthouses (8–20 USD), a few restaurants, moped rentals, and local tour providers. The atmosphere is frontier-like — red earth, mopeds, playing children, blazing heat.

Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake

The Yeak Laom is the highlight of Ratanakiri and one of the most magical places in Cambodia. A perfectly round crater lake (700,000 years old), 800 m in diameter and up to 50 m deep, surrounded by dense primary forest. The water is crystal clear and emerald green — swimming is allowed and wonderfully refreshing.

The lake is a sacred place of the Tampuan indigenous people. A wooden jetty leads to the water, a hiking trail circles the lake (3 km, 45 min). Entrance: 1 USD (goes to the Tampuan community). Best in the morning (fewer visitors, mirror-smooth water).

Virachey National Park

The largest national park in Cambodia (3,325 km²) adjoins Ban Lung to the north and extends to the Laotian and Vietnamese borders. Dense tropical forest, rare wildlife (gibbons, bears, elephants — most invisible), indigenous villages.

• Day Treks: From 50 USD/person (guide + transport). Hike through jungle, to waterfalls, and indigenous villages.
• Multi-Day Treks: 2–5 days, from 80 USD/day/person. Camping in the jungle, night hikes, river crossings. Only for the physically fit — the heat and humidity are extreme.
• Booking: Only through the Virachey NP Ranger Station in Ban Lung. Guide is mandatory.

Waterfalls

• Ka Tieng Waterfall: 6 km southwest of Ban Lung. Easily accessible by moped. 7 m high, natural pool for swimming. Entrance: 1 USD.
• Cha Ong Waterfall: 8 km northwest. 25 m high, spectacular jungle waterfall. Impressive in the rainy season. Entrance: 1 USD, plus 500 m walk.
• Katieng (not Ka Tieng): 9 km southwest, the widest waterfall in the area. Popular with locals on weekends.

Kratie — The Dolphin Town on the Mekong

The sleepy provincial town of Kratie (pronounced: "Kra-tscheh") on the Mekong is the starting point for observing the last Irrawaddy freshwater dolphins in the Mekong. It is halfway between Phnom Penh and the northeast and is a pleasant stopover.

Irrawaddy Dolphins at Kampi

About 15 km north of Kratie, near the village of Kampi, lives one of the last populations of Irrawaddy freshwater dolphins (Orcaella brevirostris) in the Mekong. An estimated about 90 animals exist in this river section — an endangered species.

The dolphins are smaller than marine dolphins (2–2.5 m), gray-blue, with a round head without a pronounced snout. They regularly surface to breathe — most often in the late afternoon (3:00–5:00 PM).

Boat Tour

Koh Trong — Mekong Island

Directly opposite Kratie lies the island of Koh Trong — a rural Mekong island accessible by ferry (a few cents). Perfect for a bike tour (rent a bike on the island, 1–2 USD): 9 km loop through fruit plantations, rice fields, and sleepy villages. Homestay option: 8–12 USD with dinner.

Other Highlights in Kratie

• Phnom Sambok: Pagoda on a hill, 11 km north. 303 steps up, panoramic view of the Mekong at the top. Free.
• Mekong Sunset: The riverside promenade in Kratie offers one of Cambodia's most beautiful sunsets — the vast Mekong glows orange.
• Colonial Architecture: Kratie has some beautiful French colonial buildings along the riverbank. Perfect for an evening stroll.

Practical Information