Banteay Chhmar★★
Banteay Chhmar — Angkor's Forgotten Twin
Banteay Chhmar ("Citadel of the Cat") is one of the largest and least visited temples in Cambodia — a vast complex from the 12th century, built under Jayavarman VII (the same king who built the Bayon and Ta Prohm in Angkor). The temple spans 2 km × 2.5 km and was once surrounded by a city.
What makes Banteay Chhmar special: it is practically unrestored and barely visited. Huge trees grow through the walls, galleries have collapsed, and you climb over piles of rubble while geckos scurry over the reliefs. It's the Indiana Jones experience that Ta Prohm once was before the tourist buses arrived.
Highlights
- Bas-reliefs: Some of the best reliefs of the entire Khmer Empire. The east wall depicts battle scenes against the Cham and mythological representations. Particularly noteworthy: a relief of the multi-armed Avalokiteshvara (Bodhisattva of Compassion).
- Face Towers: Like at the Bayon — enigmatic smiling faces look in all directions. Here you can stand alone in front of a face tower, while in Angkor hundreds fight for the same motif.
- Community-Based Tourism: The village of Banteay Chhmar offers homestays (8–12 USD with meals) and local guides (10–15 USD/day). Your money goes directly to the community.
Getting There
Banteay Chhmar is located 63 km north of Sisophon (3h from Battambang) on a partially unpaved road. The journey is adventurous:
- From Battambang: Private transport (50–70 USD/day round trip) or moped (120 km, 3–4h, unpaved sections).
- From Siem Reap: 170 km (4–5h), via Sisophon. Also possible as a day trip (but long).
- Overnight: Homestay in the village (recommended) or day trip from Battambang.
💡 Tipp
Banteay Chhmar is THE tip for those who loved Angkor but are tired of the crowds. Plan an overnight stay in the village homestay — dinner with a Khmer family in the evening, explore the temple in the morning mist before the (few) day-trippers arrive. A real adventure.
