Food & Drink

In the 1960s, the Seven Countries Study examined dietary habits in seven countries—and found that the inhabitants of Crete had the highest life expectancy and the lowest rates of heart disease. The reason: the Cretan diet, which is now considered the original form of the Mediterranean diet. Its foundation is simple and ingenious: excellent olive oil in large quantities, wild vegetables and herbs, legumes, whole grain bread, cheese, yogurt, and moderate amounts of meat and fish.

The Essentials

• Olive oil: Crete produces some of the best olive oil in the world—the Koroneiki olive yields a golden-green, intensely fruity extra virgin that in Crete is not a dressing but a staple food. It is estimated that a Cretan consumes 25 liters of olive oil per year—ten times that of a German.
• Dakos: The Cretan national dish: Paximadi (barley rusk) is moistened with water, then topped with grated tomato, Mizithra cheese (soft whey cheese), olive oil, oregano, and capers. Simple, ingenious, addictive.
• Graviera Kritis: Cretan hard cheese made from sheep and goat milk, mild and nutty. Eaten plain, fried (Saganaki), or grated. One of the best cheeses in Greece.
• Chochlioi Bourbouristoi: Fried snails with rosemary and vinegar—the Cretan answer to escargots. Sounds unusual, tastes fantastic.
• Kalitsounia: Small filled pastries with Mizithra cheese and herbs (savory) or with Mizithra and honey (sweet). Every Cretan grandmother has her own recipe.
• Lamb: Cretan lamb (from the mountainside, fed with wild herbs) is incomparable. On the spit (Antikristo—over an open fire, a specialty of the Sfakia region), as Stifado (stew), or as simple grilled chops (Paidakia).
• Horta: Boiled wild greens (dandelion, endive, amaranth) with olive oil and lemon—the Cretan superfood. Available as a side dish in every tavern.

Raki (also called Tsikoudia in Crete) is not just a spirit—it's the social lubricant of Crete, a sign of hospitality, and a ritual that concludes every meal. The clear pomace brandy (similar to Italian grappa, but milder) is distilled from the leftovers of the grape harvest: grape skins, seeds, and stems are distilled to produce a 35–40% spirit with a distinctive, slightly fruity taste.

The Raki Culture

In every traditional tavern in Crete, you receive raki after the meal—free, unsolicited, and plentiful. Often accompanied by fruits, a piece of cake, or yogurt with honey (the so-called Kerasma—a gift from the house). This is not a marketing trick but lived hospitality. Refusing raki would be impolite—a small sip suffices.

In autumn (October/November), the raki distillation season (Kazanemata) takes place—a major social event. In traditional distilleries (Kazani), family and friends gather, the first batch is tasted, there is grilling, singing, and celebrating. Being invited to Kazanemata offers an authentic glimpse into Cretan life.

Cretan Wine

Crete has a 4,000-year-old wine culture—the Minoans were already excellent winemakers. Today, the island is experiencing a wine renaissance with over 40 modern wineries producing excellent wines from indigenous grape varieties:

• Vidiano: Crete's star wine—an elegant, full-bodied white wine with aromas of stone fruit and citrus. Internationally award-winning.
• Kotsifali: Fruity, soft red wine variety, often blended with the tannin-rich Mandilari.
• Liatiko: An ancient red wine variety that produces light, elegant wines—perfect with Cretan food.
• Vilana: Fresh, light white wine—ideal as an aperitif or with fish.

The house wine (Krasi Varelisio, "barrel wine") in taverns costs 5–8€ for half a carafe and is often surprisingly good. Also try the Retsina (resin wine)—less common in Crete than on the mainland, but an interesting experience.

The tavern (Taverna) is the heart of Cretan dining culture—and has little in common with a restaurant. Here are the key rules to eat like a local:

How to Find the Best Tavern

• Where Greeks sit, it's good. The most important rule. Avoid places with touts on the street, laminated menus with photos, and "Tourist Menu" signs.
• Simplicity is better: The best taverns have paper tablecloths, little decoration, and a short menu—or no menu at all, just the instruction "Look in the kitchen".
• Inquiries are allowed: In many Cretan taverns, there is no printed menu—the waiter (or hostess) will tell you what's available today. This is a good sign: it means fresh, seasonal preparation.

Ordering Etiquette

• Meze instead of main course: The Cretan way of eating is to share many small dishes. Order 3–5 appetizers (meze) for 2 people: Dakos, Horta, Saganaki, a sausage (Loukaniko), Tzatziki. Along with bread and olive oil. This is often enough for a complete meal.
• Fish by weight: Fresh fish is often priced by the kilo in taverns (40–70€/kg). Have the fish shown to you and confirm the price before it goes on the grill—no surprises on the bill.
• Food comes when it comes: In Cretan taverns, dishes do not arrive simultaneously. Appetizers first, warm dishes when they are ready. This is normal—enjoy it as part of the rhythm.
• Tip: Not mandatory, but 5–10% is appreciated. In simple taverns, round up to the nearest euro.
• Raki at the end: The host brings raki and often a dessert for free. Accept, thank, and enjoy.

Cretan Daily Routine for Eating

Breakfast: Greeks have little breakfast—coffee and perhaps a Koulouri (sesame ring) or Bougatsa from the bakery. Hotels offer breakfast buffets, but this is not typically Cretan. Lunch: The main meal, traditionally between 2:00 and 3:00 p.m., followed by a siesta. Dinner: Rarely before 9:00 p.m., often until midnight. The long summer evenings in the tavern, with raki and conversations, are the heart of the Cretan way of life.