Eastern Crete — Agios Nikolaos, Spinalonga & Vai

Agios Nikolaos (Άγιος Νικόλαος, simply called "Ag Nik" by the locals) is the capital of the Lasithi Prefecture and one of the most elegant small towns in Crete. Nestled on the hills of the Gulf of Mirabello — Crete's largest and most beautiful bay — it combines cosmopolitan flair with Greek coziness.

The city's landmark is the Voulismeni Lake (Limni Voulismeni), an almost circular, 64-meter-deep freshwater basin in the middle of the city, connected to the sea by a canal. Cafés and taverns line up around the lake with spectacular reflections on the water — in the evenings, when the lights break on the surface, the atmosphere is particularly magical. Legend has it that the goddess Athena bathed in the lake.

The waterfront promenade leads from the lake to the small harbor, where fishing boats rock alongside elegant yachts. The Archaeological Museum (Konstantinos-Paleologos-Str.) houses a fine collection of Minoan finds from eastern Crete, including the famous Goddess of Myrtos — a 4,500-year-old ceramic figure, one of the icons of Minoan art.

Agios Nikolaos is the ideal starting point for excursions to Spinalonga (boats from Elounda or Plaka, 15 km north), to the Lasithi Plateau (30 km west), and to the beaches of Istro and Voulisma (10 km southeast — one of the most beautiful sandy beaches in eastern Crete). The nearby Elounda, 10 km north, is Crete's most exclusive address — home to some of Greece's most expensive luxury resorts (Elounda Beach, Blue Palace), surrounded by breathtaking scenery on the Mirabello Bay.

The harbor promenade of Elounda itself is surprisingly down-to-earth: A small fishing village with taverns by the water, fishing boats, and the view of the offshore Spinalonga Peninsula (not to be confused with the island). From here, boats depart for Spinalonga.

Spinalonga (Σπιναλόγκα, officially Kalydon) is a small rocky island in the Gulf of Mirabello, which holds one of the most moving stories in the entire Mediterranean. What began as a Venetian sea fortress became Europe's last leper colony — and today is one of Crete's most visited sites.

The Venetians built the fortress in 1579 on the strategically located island to protect the port of Elounda. The fortifications were so strong that Spinalonga was one of the few fortresses never captured by the Ottomans — it only fell in 1715 when the Venetians peacefully handed it over. Under Ottoman rule, a Turkish settlement lived on the island.

The darkest and at the same time most touching chapter began in 1903: The Greek government made Spinalonga a leper colony. Leprosy patients from all over Crete and Greece were banished here — without cure, without hope of return. Over the decades, an astonishing community developed on the tiny island: The residents built houses, founded families, ran businesses and a barber shop, published a newspaper, and fought for better living conditions. In 1948, leprosy was medically defeated, and in 1957, the last 20 residents left the island — Spinalonga was Europe's last leper colony.

The bestselling novel "The Island" (Victoria Hislop, 2005) made Spinalonga famous worldwide and triggered a visitor boom. Today, you wander through the Venetian tunnels, past abandoned houses of leprosy patients, the small church, the hospital, and the ruins of a world that tells of isolation and human dignity. Allow at least 2 hours on the island.

Practical Information: Boats depart from Elounda (15 min., 10€ round trip) and from Plaka (7 min., 8€ round trip) regularly from April to October. Entrance to the island: 8€. Little shade — bring a hat and water. The boats from Plaka are smaller, more personal, and the crossing is shorter.

The Palm Beach of Vai (Βάι) at the far northeastern tip of Crete is unique in Europe: A natural forest of thousands of Cretan date palms (Phoenix theophrasti) frames a bright sandy bay with crystal-clear water — a scene that resembles the Caribbean or North Africa more than Europe.

The palm forest is the largest of its kind in Europe and consists of about 5,000 date palms. Legend has it that Saracen pirates spat out date pits here, from which the forest grew — the truth is probably more mundane: The Cretan date palm is an endemic species that has grown here since antiquity. Since 1973, Vai has been under nature protection — in the 1960s and 70s, hippie campers declared the beach "Europe's Morocco" and left quite a mess. Today, camping is strictly prohibited.

The beach itself is beautiful: fine golden sand, shallow, warm water, and the palms as a natural backdrop. Sun loungers and umbrellas (10€/set) are available, along with a beach bar and toilets. The beach can get crowded in high season. Those seeking solitude can hike over the rocks at the southern end of the beach to Itanos Beach — a wild, often deserted beach with the ruins of the ancient city of Itanos right next to it.

Getting there: Vai is 94 km east of Agios Nikolaos and 24 km from Sitia. The last kilometers lead through a barren, almost moon-like landscape — the contrast to the green palm forest upon arrival is all the greater. Parking available (3€). There is a KTEL bus from Sitia (May–October), but a rental car is more practical. Vai can be well combined with the nearby Toplou Monastery (7 km, one of Crete's richest and most important monasteries, with a famous icon collection and its own olive oil and wine production).

Sitia (Σητεία) is the easternmost city of Crete and the most authentic insider tip among Crete's cities. Here, there are hardly any package tourists, no souvenir miles, and no cruise ships — instead, an honest Greek small town (about 10,000 inhabitants) with a charming harbor, a Venetian fortress (Kazarma) on the hill, and one of the most relaxed atmospheres on the island.

The harbor promenade of Sitia is a dream: Taverns line up along the water, fishing boats rock in the harbor, and in the evenings, locals stroll during the Volta (the Greek evening walk). The Archaeological Museum displays finds from the region, including artifacts from the Minoan palace of Zakros (the fourth largest Minoan palace, 40 km south — a spectacular, rarely visited excavation site in a wild coastal landscape).

Sitia is known for its Sultanas wine and its olive oil — both among the best in Crete. Every year in August, the Sultana Festival takes place: A week of music, dance, and wine tasting. From Sitia, you can reach the palm beach of Vai (24 km) and the palace of Zakros (40 km via a winding mountain road).

The Lasithi Plateau (Οροπέδιο Λασιθίου, 840 m altitude) is one of the most fascinating landscapes of Crete: A circular, fertile plateau 11 km long, surrounded by mountains, once characterized by thousands of white windmills for irrigation. Today, most are dilapidated, but some restored examples still convey the historical image. The plateau is famous for its potatoes (the best in Greece!) and its apple trees.

At the edge of the plateau lies the Dikteon Cave (Psychro Cave), according to Greek mythology, the birthplace of Zeus. The cave with its impressive stalactites and stalagmites has been a significant cult site since the Neolithic era — thousands of votive offerings have been found here. Entrance: 6€. The descent into the cave over steep steps is manageable, but sturdy shoes are recommended. Alternatively, you can rent a donkey (15€) to carry you up the hill — a hilarious experience.