The Tavern Guide
The tavern (Taverna) is the heart of Cretan dining culture—and has little in common with a restaurant. Here are the key rules to eat like a local:
How to Find the Best Tavern
- Where Greeks sit, it's good. The most important rule. Avoid places with touts on the street, laminated menus with photos, and "Tourist Menu" signs.
- Simplicity is better: The best taverns have paper tablecloths, little decoration, and a short menu—or no menu at all, just the instruction "Look in the kitchen".
- Inquiries are allowed: In many Cretan taverns, there is no printed menu—the waiter (or hostess) will tell you what's available today. This is a good sign: it means fresh, seasonal preparation.
Ordering Etiquette
- Meze instead of main course: The Cretan way of eating is to share many small dishes. Order 3–5 appetizers (meze) for 2 people: Dakos, Horta, Saganaki, a sausage (Loukaniko), Tzatziki. Along with bread and olive oil. This is often enough for a complete meal.
- Fish by weight: Fresh fish is often priced by the kilo in taverns (40–70€/kg). Have the fish shown to you and confirm the price before it goes on the grill—no surprises on the bill.
- Food comes when it comes: In Cretan taverns, dishes do not arrive simultaneously. Appetizers first, warm dishes when they are ready. This is normal—enjoy it as part of the rhythm.
- Tip: Not mandatory, but 5–10% is appreciated. In simple taverns, round up to the nearest euro.
- Raki at the end: The host brings raki and often a dessert for free. Accept, thank, and enjoy.
Cretan Daily Routine for Eating
Breakfast: Greeks have little breakfast—coffee and perhaps a Koulouri (sesame ring) or Bougatsa from the bakery. Hotels offer breakfast buffets, but this is not typically Cretan. Lunch: The main meal, traditionally between 2:00 and 3:00 p.m., followed by a siesta. Dinner: Rarely before 9:00 p.m., often until midnight. The long summer evenings in the tavern, with raki and conversations, are the heart of the Cretan way of life.
