Matala — Caves, Hippies & Sunsets
Matala (Μάταλα) is a piece of counterculture history on the south coast of central Crete. The small fishing village became a hippie legend in the 1960s and 70s: In the Roman burial caves carved into the sandstone cliffs above the beach, dropouts from all over the world lived — allegedly including Joni Mitchell (who wrote "Carey" here) and Bob Dylan. "Today is life, tomorrow never comes" is still written on a cave wall.
Today, the caves are fenced off and accessible as an archaeological site (entry: 3€). They originally date from the Roman period (1st–2nd century AD) and served as burial chambers — the rectangular hollows in the walls were niches for sarcophagi. The contrast between ancient history and the hippie era makes for a unique appeal.
The beach of Matala is a sheltered bay with fine sand and clear water, framed by dramatic sandstone cliffs. Caves to the right, cliffs to the left — the sunset at Matala is one of the most beautiful in Crete. Those who climb over the cliffs to the left (10–15 minutes, sturdy footwear required) reach the Red Beach (Kokkinos Ammos) — a nudist-friendly beach with red sand between rocky backdrops. Much quieter and wilder than the main beach.
Every June, the Matala Beach Festival takes place — a three-day music festival right on the beach, reminiscent of the hippie era, with rock, reggae, and world music. Matala is also a good starting point for visits to the Minoan excavation of Phaistos (15 km north) and the Roman ruins of Gortyn (30 km).
