Rif Mountains

The Rif Mountains stretch as a green arc from Tangier to Nador along the Mediterranean coast — and are one of the least traveled regions of Morocco. Despite (or because of) its proximity to Europe, the Rif feels like another country: Berber is the main language, cannabis is openly cultivated, and the close connection to Spain is evident everywhere.

Landscape

Unlike the dry High Atlas, the Rif is green and wooded: cork oaks, pines, cedars, and blooming meadows in spring are more reminiscent of southern Europe than North Africa. The mountain villages cling to steep slopes, the valleys are deep, and the roads are winding — a scenically spectacular but slow-driving region.

Berber Culture of the Riffians

The Amazigh (Berbers) of the Rif — the Riffians or Irifyen — have a distinct culture and history. They speak Tarifit (Rif Berber), which is very different from the Tamazight of the Atlas. The region has a long tradition of resistance: the legendary Abdelkrim el-Khattabi led a rebellion against Spain and France from 1921-1926 and briefly founded a Rif Republic. Even today, the region is politically assertive.

Cannabis Cultivation

A large portion of Europe's hashish comes from the Rif — especially from the region around Ketama. Driving through the mountains, you see the fields openly on the hillsides. Travelers are advised not to stop and not to take photos, as the farmers understandably react suspiciously to strangers with cameras. Since 2021, Morocco has partially legalized cultivation for medical and industrial purposes.