Fes & Meknès

Fes el-Bali (the old Fes) is the Medina of all Medinas — founded in 789 AD by Idris I and thus the oldest continuously inhabited medieval city in the world. The UNESCO World Heritage Site stretches over a basin between two hills and includes over 9,400 alleys and dead ends, 350 mosques, dozens of medersas, fondouks (caravanserais), and hammams.

The First Impression

Fes el-Bali is not Marrakech. While Marrakech has opened up to tourism, Fes' Medina is a functioning medieval urban system: Here, life is lived, not staged. Donkeys carry building materials through the alleys (shout "Balak! Balak!" = Make way!), craftsmen hammer, grind, and weave in the same workshops as their great-grandfathers, and the muezzin calls to prayer five times a day. It is overwhelming, chaotic, smelly (the tanneries!), loud — and absolutely fascinating.

The Main Axes

Two main alleys run through the Medina: The Talaa Kebira (the great slope) and the Talaa Seghira (the small slope), both starting at the Bab Bou Jeloud (the blue gate, the main entrance to the Medina) and winding down to the Qaraouiyine Mosque. Along these axes are the main souks, mosques, and medersas. Stick to these axes, and you'll always find your way back.

The Souks

Fes' souks are more authentic and less touristy than those in Marrakech. Prices are lower, quality is often higher, and the merchants are less aggressive. Particularly worth seeing:

• Souk el-Henna: A small square with henna, cosmetics, and herbs — the oldest marketplace in the city.
• Souk Nejjarine: The carpenter's souk around the beautiful Nejjarine Fountain (18th century) and the Fondouk Nejjarine (now a wood museum). Cedarwood crafts: boxes from 50 MAD, carved tables from 500 MAD.
• Souk el-Attarine: The spice souk, named after the nearby Medersa el-Attarine. Ras el-Hanout, rosebuds, lavender, dried figs.

Viewpoints

For an overview of the maze: The Borj Nord (an old fortress north of the Medina, now a weapons museum, 20 MAD) offers the best panoramic view. Alternatively, the Merinid Tombs on the hill above — at sunset, when the minarets glow golden and the call of the muezzin echoes over the city, this is one of the most magical moments in Morocco.

The Chouara Tannery is the oldest and largest of the three tanneries in Fes — and one of the most iconic images of Morocco. Since the 11th century, animal hides have been processed here using the same methods as in the Middle Ages: In dozens of round stone vats that look like a giant palette, the hides are soaked in solutions of pigeon droppings (for tanning), lime (for depilation), saffron, poppy, indigo, mint, and cedarwood (for dyeing).

The Smell

Warning: The stench is beastly. The combination of pigeon droppings, lime, animal hides, and chemicals hits you like a wall. Mint leaves are offered at the entrances to hold against your nose — take them! After 10 minutes, the nose somewhat adjusts, but sensitive stomachs should be prepared.

The Visit

The tannery itself cannot be entered — access is through the leather shops on the surrounding terraces, which grant you free entry (and of course hope you will buy something afterward). You will be led by an employee to the terrace, from where you have an overview of the entire vat field. The best light for photos is in the morning (10:00–12:00 am), when the sun shines directly on the colorful vats.

The work of the tanners is brutal and hazardous to health — they stand for hours in the caustic solutions, often barefoot. It is a dying profession: Many young Fassis no longer want to do this work. The color palette is seasonal: In summer, yellow and orange (saffron, henna) dominate, in winter more brown and red.

Buying Leather?

The shops around the tannery sell leather goods — bags, jackets, shoes, poufs. The quality varies greatly. Good goat leather is recognized by its softness and lack of chemical smell (cheap leather is tanned with chrome instead of traditionally). Prices: Leather bag 200–800 MAD, babouches 60–200 MAD, leather pouf 200–500 MAD. Bargain hard — the initial prices here are often 3–4 times inflated due to the tourist surcharge.

The Bou Inania Medersa is the architectural jewel of Fes — and one of the few religious sites in Morocco that non-Muslims are allowed to enter. Built between 1351–1356 under the Marinid Sultan Bou Inan, it is both a Quranic school and a Friday mosque (a rare combination) and is considered the pinnacle of Marinid architecture.

The Architecture

What awaits you will take your breath away: A rectangular courtyard with an onyx marble floor, in the center of which stands a fountain. The walls are divided into three levels — below Zellij mosaics in geometric patterns, above stucco arabesques with Quranic verses and floral ornaments, and at the top carved cedarwood with muqarnas stalactites. Every surface is decorated, nothing is left bare — yet the whole appears harmonious rather than overloaded.

The water clock on the facade (13 wooden windows, from which a metal ball fell every hour) was a technological marvel of its time — the mechanism is lost today, but the windows are still visible.

Comparison with Marrakech

If you have seen the Medersa Ben Youssef in Marrakech: The Bou Inania is smaller but even more finely crafted. The proportions are more perfect, the details even more precise. The Marinid architecture in Fes is considered the pinnacle of Islamic architecture in Morocco — even ahead of the Saadian buildings in Marrakech.

The Royal Palace of Fes (Dar el-Makhzen) is one of the largest palaces in the world at 80 hectares — but you will only see it from the outside. The palace is the official residence of the king in Fes and not open to the public. The reason for a visit is the famous seven gates (Bab es-Seba), which are among the most photographed motifs in Morocco.

The Seven Gates

The massive brass gates with their geometric patterns, framed by green Zellij mosaics on a white background, are a masterpiece of Moroccan craftsmanship. The seven horseshoe arches symbolize the seven days of the week and the seven heavens of Islam. The gates are most beautiful in the late afternoon when the sun makes the brass glow golden.

Fes el-Jdid

The palace is located in the district of Fes el-Jdid (the new Fes, founded in 1276 by the Marinids) — which is more spacious and quieter compared to Fes el-Bali. Here is also the former Mellah (Jewish quarter) with its distinctive architecture: wooden balconies instead of courtyards, narrow alleys, the Ibn Danan Synagogue (17th century, restored, entry 20 MAD), and the Jewish cemetery with its white tombstones.

Meknès is the most underrated of Morocco's four imperial cities — and that's exactly what makes it so appealing. While Marrakech and Fes are overrun by tourists, Meknès has preserved its authentic character. The city owes its imperial splendor to Sultan Moulay Ismail (1672–1727), the "Sun King of Morocco," who made it the capital of the Alaouite Empire and built a palace complex to rival Versailles.

Bab Mansour — the most beautiful gate in Morocco

The Bab Mansour el-Aleuj (completed in 1732) is the most monumental and richly decorated city gate in Morocco — and probably in the entire Islamic world. The facade with its Corinthian marble columns (looted from the Roman ruins of Volubilis), green Zellij mosaics, and stucco decoration on the yellow sandstone is of overwhelming beauty. Behind it lies the Place el-Hedim, Meknès' version of the Djemaa el-Fna — much smaller and quieter, but with food stalls, musicians, and storytellers in the evening.

Moulay Ismail Mausoleum

The Mausoleum of Sultan Moulay Ismail is one of the few religious sites in Morocco that non-Muslims are allowed to enter. The tomb is a masterpiece of stucco, mosaics, and marble — serene, dignified, and imbued with an atmosphere of reverence. Moulay Ismail is revered as one of Morocco's greatest rulers (although legend has it he fathered over 800 children and kept thousands of slaves).

Heri es-Souani — the royal stables

The Heri es-Souani are the famous granaries and stables of Moulay Ismail — a vast complex of stone arches that once housed 12,000 horses. The architecture is impressive: thick walls and a sophisticated ventilation system kept temperatures low even in the height of summer. Part of the vaults has collapsed, giving the place a romantically ruinous atmosphere. At the rear end lies the Agdal Lake (Bassin de l'Agdal), an artificial lake that served as a water reservoir and recreational area.

Medina & Souks

Meknès' Medina is more compact and less confusing than that of Fes — in 2–3 hours you get a good overview. The souks are authentic and affordable: Here, Moroccans shop, not tourists. Particularly noteworthy are the Olive Souk (hundreds of varieties of Moroccan olives) and the Textile Souk (Djellabas from 100 MAD).

Volubilis (Arabic: Oualili) is the best-preserved Roman ruin site in North Africa and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city was founded in the 3rd century BC by the Mauritanians and expanded from 40 AD into a thriving Roman provincial town, which at its peak had over 20,000 inhabitants. Here, amidst the gentle hills of the Moroccan hinterland, with storks on the column capitals and olive groves all around, antiquity comes alive.

What You See

• Triumphal Arch of Caracalla (217 AD): The imposing arch at the end of the main street (Decumanus Maximus) was erected in honor of Emperor Caracalla. It is the most photographed monument of the site.
• Basilica & Forum: The political and economic center of the city. The basilica (courthouse) is impressive with its preserved columns and arches. At the forum, you can still see the speaker's platform and market stalls.
• House of Orpheus: One of the most magnificent townhouses with beautifully preserved floor mosaics depicting Orpheus playing the harp, surrounded by animals. The mosaics are the highlight of Volubilis — amazingly well-preserved after almost 2,000 years.
• House of the Ephebe: More spectacular mosaics (Bacchus on a chariot, drawn by leopards) and a well-preserved bathhouse with a recognizable heating system (hypocaust).
• Decumanus Maximus: The 400 m long main street with colonnades, shops, and townhouses. Here, the Roman bourgeoisie strolled.

History

Volubilis survived the withdrawal of the Romans (3rd century) and was inhabited by Berbers and later by Idris I (the founder of Fes). The Lisbon earthquake of 1755 destroyed large parts of the buildings, and Sultan Moulay Ismail had marble columns transported to Meknès to adorn his palace. What remains is still enough for 2–3 hours of amazement.

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is the holiest city in Morocco — and one of the least visited. The white mountain village, picturesquely situated on two hills above the Zerhoun massif, houses the tomb of Moulay Idriss I, the great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed and founder of the first Moroccan dynasty (788 AD). Five pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss are considered equivalent to one Hajj to Mecca — accordingly, the place is sacred to Moroccans.

What to Expect

The village itself is a labyrinth of white houses climbing the hills. The Zaouia (the shrine complex around the tomb) is off-limits to non-Muslims — a wooden barrier marks the boundary. But the atmosphere of the village itself is the real charm: narrow alleys, friendly residents, hardly any tourists, a weekly market on Saturday, and from the viewpoints, a panoramic view over olive groves to the ruins of Volubilis.

Accommodation

Since 2005, non-Muslims have been allowed to stay overnight in Moulay Idriss (previously it was forbidden). There are now some charming guesthouses: Dar Zerhoune (rooftop terrace with panoramic view, from 500 MAD/night) and Scorpion House (former cinema, creatively converted, from 600 MAD/night). A night here is an authentic experience away from tourism — in the evening, the village belongs to you.

The cuisine of Fes is considered the most refined in Morocco — "Fassi cuisine" is synonymous with finesse, complex spice blends, and the art of slow braising. While Marrakech is known for hearty, robust fare (Tanjia, grilled skewers), Fes maintains the high art of Moroccan gastronomy with dishes that require hours of preparation.

The Classics of Fassi Cuisine

• Pastilla (B'stilla): THE dish from Fes — and nowhere is it better than here. Paper-thin warka pastry filled with pigeon or chicken, almonds, eggs, and spices, sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. The sweet-savory combination sounds strange but tastes divine. A good pastilla takes hours to prepare. In restaurants 70–150 MAD, in upscale places 200+ MAD.
• Harira: The legendary tomato soup with lentils, chickpeas, coriander, and lemon juice — Morocco's comfort food, traditionally served to break the fast during Ramadan, but available year-round. In Fes, the Harira is particularly rich. A bowl costs 5–10 MAD on the street, 20–40 MAD in a restaurant.
• Rfissa: A festive dish from Fes — shredded msemen crêpes in a sauce of lentils, chicken, onions, and fenugreek, seasoned with Ras el-Hanout. Traditionally, Rfissa is served after the birth of a child (fenugreek promotes milk production). In restaurants 60–120 MAD.
• Mechoui: A whole lamb, slow-cooked in a clay oven until the meat falls off the bone. In Fes, you order Mechoui by the portion at the market — point to the area you want (shoulder is best). 80–150 MAD for a generous portion with bread and cumin salt.

€ Street Food & Budget

Food stalls at Bab Bou Jeloud — Just behind the blue gate, simple restaurants line up: Brochettes (grilled skewers) from 15 MAD, Tajine from 35 MAD, Harira 5–10 MAD. The stalls with the most locals are the best — avoid empty restaurants that are just waiting for tourists.

Café Clock Fes · 7 Derb el Magana, Talaa Kebira — The branch of the famous Marrakech original. Camel burger (80 MAD), traditional dishes with a modern twist, cultural evenings (Gnawa music, oud concerts, storytelling). Rooftop terrace with Medina view. 80–160 MAD per person.

€€ Local Restaurants

The Ruined Garden · 15 Derb Idrissy, Sidi Ahmed Chaoui — In a semi-ruined Riad garden with trees and vines. Modern Moroccan cuisine, excellent pastilla, homemade lemonades. The atmosphere is magical. Reservation recommended. 120–250 MAD per person.

Dar Roumana · 30 Derb el Amer, Zkak Roumana — Upscale Fassi cuisine in a beautifully restored Riad. 4-course dinner menu with pastilla, tajine, couscous, and dessert. 350 MAD per person (dinner by reservation).

€€€ Upscale

Palais Amani · 12 Derb el Amer — Palace dining in the courtyard of one of the most beautiful Riads in the Medina. Tasting menu with 7 courses, each a highlight of Fassi cuisine. 500–700 MAD per person. The cooking classes here (half day 650 MAD) are one of the best ways to learn the secrets of Moroccan cuisine.

Patisserie & Sweets

Fes is famous for its patisserie: Cornes de gazelle (crescent-shaped pastries with almond paste), Briouats (fried triangles with almonds and honey), Chebakia (fried sesame rings with honey). The best selection can be found at Pâtisserie Maison Driss on Talaa Kebira — mixed box (500g) from 60 MAD. Add a Café Noir — and you have the perfect afternoon ritual.

Getting Around

In the Medina: Exclusively on foot. No car, no motorcycle (officially), no bicycle fits through the alleys. Watch out for donkeys and handcarts — the shout "Balak!" (Make way!) means: Press against the wall immediately. In Fes, the donkey always has the right of way.

Petit Taxi: The red taxis operate within the city (mostly Ville Nouvelle ↔ Medina gates). Insist on the taximeter — without a meter, 15–25 MAD within the city. At night, a 50% surcharge applies.

Train: Fes has a modern train station (Gare de Fès) with good connections to Marrakech (7 hours, from 195 MAD), Rabat (2.5 hours, from 95 MAD), Meknès (45 min., from 25 MAD), and Tangier (4 hours, from 125 MAD). Tickets online via oncf.ma or at the counter.

Accommodation

• € Budget: Riad Verus (Derb Serraj, from 300 MAD/night) — simple, clean, great rooftop terrace, warm hosts. Dar Seffarine (at Place Seffarine, from 350 MAD) — right next to the coppersmiths, authentic and charmingly loud.
• €€ Mid-range: Riad Fes Maya (from 700 MAD) — stylish, quiet Riad with pool and excellent breakfast. Karawan Riad (from 800 MAD) — design Riad with modern aesthetics in a historic building.
• €€€ Luxury: Riad Fès (Derb Bin Lamdoune, from 2,500 MAD) — Morocco's most famous boutique hotel, member of Relais & Châteaux. Palais Faraj (from 2,000 MAD) — former palace with panoramic views, spa, and restaurant.

Safety

Fes is safer than Marrakech — less pickpocketing, less fraud. Nevertheless: Keep valuables close to your body, avoid the dark side alleys of the Medina at night, and firmly decline "Faux Guides." The biggest danger in the Medina is the donkeys, not the people.

Hammam

A visit to the Hammam (traditional steam bath) is a must in Fes. There are tourist hammams in Riads (comfortable, more expensive: 200–400 MAD with massage) and public neighborhood hammams (authentic, spartan: 15–20 MAD entry, scrub 50 MAD extra). For first-time visitors, a tourist hammam is recommended — the public ones have unwritten rules that can overwhelm newcomers.