Food — Pastilla, Harira & Fassi Cuisine€
The cuisine of Fes is considered the most refined in Morocco — "Fassi cuisine" is synonymous with finesse, complex spice blends, and the art of slow braising. While Marrakech is known for hearty, robust fare (Tanjia, grilled skewers), Fes maintains the high art of Moroccan gastronomy with dishes that require hours of preparation.
The Classics of Fassi Cuisine
- Pastilla (B'stilla): THE dish from Fes — and nowhere is it better than here. Paper-thin warka pastry filled with pigeon or chicken, almonds, eggs, and spices, sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. The sweet-savory combination sounds strange but tastes divine. A good pastilla takes hours to prepare. In restaurants 70–150 MAD, in upscale places 200+ MAD.
- Harira: The legendary tomato soup with lentils, chickpeas, coriander, and lemon juice — Morocco's comfort food, traditionally served to break the fast during Ramadan, but available year-round. In Fes, the Harira is particularly rich. A bowl costs 5–10 MAD on the street, 20–40 MAD in a restaurant.
- Rfissa: A festive dish from Fes — shredded msemen crêpes in a sauce of lentils, chicken, onions, and fenugreek, seasoned with Ras el-Hanout. Traditionally, Rfissa is served after the birth of a child (fenugreek promotes milk production). In restaurants 60–120 MAD.
- Mechoui: A whole lamb, slow-cooked in a clay oven until the meat falls off the bone. In Fes, you order Mechoui by the portion at the market — point to the area you want (shoulder is best). 80–150 MAD for a generous portion with bread and cumin salt.
€ Street Food & Budget
Food stalls at Bab Bou Jeloud — Just behind the blue gate, simple restaurants line up: Brochettes (grilled skewers) from 15 MAD, Tajine from 35 MAD, Harira 5–10 MAD. The stalls with the most locals are the best — avoid empty restaurants that are just waiting for tourists.
Café Clock Fes · 7 Derb el Magana, Talaa Kebira — The branch of the famous Marrakech original. Camel burger (80 MAD), traditional dishes with a modern twist, cultural evenings (Gnawa music, oud concerts, storytelling). Rooftop terrace with Medina view. 80–160 MAD per person.
€€ Local Restaurants
The Ruined Garden · 15 Derb Idrissy, Sidi Ahmed Chaoui — In a semi-ruined Riad garden with trees and vines. Modern Moroccan cuisine, excellent pastilla, homemade lemonades. The atmosphere is magical. Reservation recommended. 120–250 MAD per person.
Dar Roumana · 30 Derb el Amer, Zkak Roumana — Upscale Fassi cuisine in a beautifully restored Riad. 4-course dinner menu with pastilla, tajine, couscous, and dessert. 350 MAD per person (dinner by reservation).
€€€ Upscale
Palais Amani · 12 Derb el Amer — Palace dining in the courtyard of one of the most beautiful Riads in the Medina. Tasting menu with 7 courses, each a highlight of Fassi cuisine. 500–700 MAD per person. The cooking classes here (half day 650 MAD) are one of the best ways to learn the secrets of Moroccan cuisine.
Patisserie & Sweets
Fes is famous for its patisserie: Cornes de gazelle (crescent-shaped pastries with almond paste), Briouats (fried triangles with almonds and honey), Chebakia (fried sesame rings with honey). The best selection can be found at Pâtisserie Maison Driss on Talaa Kebira — mixed box (500g) from 60 MAD. Add a Café Noir — and you have the perfect afternoon ritual.
