Marrakech

The Djemaa el-Fna is not an ordinary square — it is a living stage, a UNESCO masterpiece of oral and intangible heritage of humanity. Since the 11th century, storytellers, musicians, acrobats, snake charmers, and healers have gathered here. During the day, the square seems almost inconspicuous — a few orange juice stands, henna women, snake charmers. But from late afternoon, it transforms into Africa's largest open-air spectacle.

The Square by Day

In the morning and midday, Djemaa el-Fna is relatively quiet. The freshly squeezed orange juice stands on the northern edge are an institution — a glass costs 5–10 MAD (0.50–1 €). The quality is the same everywhere, so just pick the next stand. Henna artists offer decorations (30–50 MAD for one hand, agree on the price BEFORE!). Snake charmers and monkey handlers pose for photos — beware: they aggressively demand money afterward (20–50 MAD).

The Square by Night

From 5:00 PM, the transformation begins: Over 100 food stalls set up their stands, smoke rises, drummers play Gnawa rhythms, halaqa circles (rings of people) form around storytellers and musicians. It becomes loud, chaotic, overwhelming — and that's exactly what makes it special. The food stalls serve grilled skewers, snail soup (Babbusch, 10 MAD), sheep's head, harira soup, and fried eggplants. The quality is solid, the prices fair (30–80 MAD for a full meal).

The Best Rooftop Terraces

For the best view of the hustle and bustle, head to one of the rooftop cafés on the edge of the square. The Café de France (northwest corner) is a classic — simple mint tea (15 MAD) with a panoramic view. The Le Grand Balcon du Café Glacier (south side) offers the best view at sunset. Order a Thé à la menthe and watch the activity as the Koutoubia Mosque glows in the evening light.

The Medina of Marrakech is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest contiguous medieval urban areas in the world. The souks — the covered bazaar alleys north of Djemaa el-Fna — stretch for kilometers and are organized by crafts: leather here, metal there, textiles there, spices around the corner. It is a labyrinth, and getting lost is part of the experience.

The Main Souks

• Souk Semmarine: The main artery, wide and covered, directly accessible from Djemaa el-Fna. Textiles, shoes (babouches), bags, djellabas. Touristy but atmospheric. Every tour begins here.
• Souk el-Attarine: The spice and perfume souk. Pyramids of turmeric, cumin, saffron, and Ras el-Hanout pile up next to bottles of argan oil and rose water. A feast for the nose. Saffron: about 15–25 MAD/gram (beware of dyed safflower sold as saffron!).
• Souk des Teinturiers: The dyers' alley, where freshly dyed wool strands in red, blue, and yellow hang from the roofs. One of the most photogenic places in the Medina.
• Souk Haddadine: The metal souk. Coppersmiths hammer lanterns, trays, and teapots. The noise is deafening, the craftsmanship impressive. Here you will find the typical Moroccan lanterns (from 150 MAD for small ones, from 500 MAD for large ones).
• Souk Cherratine: The leather souk. Bags, belts, babouches (Moroccan leather slippers) in all colors. A good pair of babouches costs 80–200 MAD (depending on quality and bargaining skills).

Bargaining — Basic Rules

Bargaining is mandatory and part of the culture in the souks — those who pay the first price are not respected but laughed at. Basic rule: Offer 30–40% of the first price and work your way up to about 50–60%. Stay friendly, smile, and if the price doesn't fit, move on — often the seller will call you back. Never take the first shop — compare prices! In the back alleys, prices are usually better than on the main axes.

Orientation in the Medina

The Medina has no street names in the Western sense. GPS works limitedly, but Maps.me (offline) and Google Maps help better than expected. Remember landmarks: The Koutoubia Mosque (south), the Medersa Ben Youssef (north), the Djemaa el-Fna (center). If you get completely lost: Ask for "Djemaa el-Fna?" — everyone knows the way.

The Palais de la Bahia (Palace of the Beautiful) is a masterpiece of Moroccan-Andalusian architecture and perhaps the most beautiful building in Marrakech. Built at the end of the 19th century for the Grand Vizier Ba Ahmed ben Moussa, it spans 8,000 m² with 150 rooms, blooming courtyards, fountains, and geometrically designed gardens.

What to Expect

The palace is a single ornament: ceilings of painted cedarwood, walls with zellij mosaics (geometric tile patterns), stucco arabesques of breathtaking delicacy, floors of Carrara marble. The great courtyard with its orange trees and marble fountain is the highlight — here the full sophistication of Moroccan craftsmanship is displayed. The former chambers of the favorite concubine Bahia, after whom the palace is named, are particularly lavishly decorated.

Interesting is what is missing: When Ba Ahmed died in 1900, the palace was looted within hours — by his own master, Sultan Abdelaziz. Furniture, carpets, chandeliers — all gone. What remains are the walls, ceilings, and floors, which fortunately were not portable.

Practical Tips

The palace is one of the most visited attractions in Marrakech. Come early (before 10:00 am) or late (after 4:00 pm) to avoid the tour groups. The official guides at the entrance (about 100 MAD for 45 min.) are knowledgeable and worthwhile — the architecture is much better understood with explanation. Plan for 1–1.5 hours.

The Saadian Tombs (Tombeaux Saadiens) are one of Morocco's most magnificent burial sites — and they were lost for over 200 years. The Alaouite dynasty, which succeeded the Saadians in the 17th century, walled up the necropolis to erase the memory of their predecessors. It wasn't until 1917 that the French rediscovered the tombs during an aerial survey.

The Three Mausoleums

In a walled garden with roses and orange trees lie three mausoleums with a total of 66 tombs of the Saadian dynasty (1549–1659). The highlight is the Hall of Twelve Columns in the main mausoleum: Twelve Carrara marble columns support a dome of gilded cedarwood. The walls are covered with the finest zellij mosaics and stucco work. Here rests Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur (1578–1603), under whose rule the Saadian dynasty reached its peak.

The smaller mausoleums house princes, concubines, and advisors. In the garden itself are more graves of soldiers and servants — even in death, the strict hierarchy was reflected.

The Jardin Majorelle is an oasis of tranquility amidst the chaos of Marrakech — and one of the most photographed places in Morocco. The French painter Jacques Majorelle created the garden from 1923 as a tropical paradise: bamboo, cacti, bougainvillea, palms, and water lilies, interspersed with turquoise canals and fountains. The eponymous Majorelle Blue — an intense cobalt blue — is found on the buildings, fountains, and plant pots.

The History

After Majorelle's death in 1962, the garden became overgrown until Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé bought it in 1980 and lovingly restored it. Saint Laurent spent decades of his winters in Marrakech and called the garden his greatest inspiration. After Saint Laurent's death in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the rose garden — a small memorial pillar commemorates him.

The Berber Museum

In Majorelle's former studio is now the Musée Berbère with an exquisite collection of over 600 artifacts of Amazigh culture (Berber): jewelry, textiles, ceramics, weapons, and costumes from all regions of Morocco. The exhibition is small but beautifully curated and offers an excellent overview of the diversity of Berber culture.

Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech (mYSLm)

Next to the garden stands the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech since 2017 — an architectural gem by Studio KO, whose terracotta facade resembles a stack of fabrics. The museum showcases rotating haute couture creations by YSL, sketches, and personal items. The air-conditioned exhibition rooms are a welcome respite. There is also a cinema, a library, and the excellent Café YSL in the garden (coffee 40 MAD, light dishes 80–150 MAD).

The Koutoubia Mosque is the landmark of Marrakech — its 77-meter-high minaret is visible from almost everywhere in the city and has served as a point of orientation for 850 years. Built under the Almohad dynasty (1147–1199), it is the model for the Giralda in Seville and the Hassan Tower in Rabat.

The Minaret

The minaret is a masterpiece of Almohad architecture: a square tower, each side differently decorated with arched windows, ceramic tiles, and stone reliefs. At the top are four golden spheres — legend has it they were forged from the golden jewelry of Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour's wife as penance for breaking the fast during Ramadan.

Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the mosque — this applies to all active mosques in Morocco (exception: Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca). However, you can enjoy the exterior architecture and the beautiful garden surrounding the mosque. Especially in the evening, when the minaret is illuminated and the muezzin calls to prayer, the Koutoubia reveals its full magic.

The Gardens

The gardens south and west of the mosque are the perfect place for a break: orange trees, rose bushes, benches in the shade. Locals gather here in the evenings for a stroll. The view from the garden of the illuminated minaret at sunset — with the souks and the Atlas Mountains in the background — is one of the most iconic sights of Marrakech.

A Riad (Arabic for "garden") is a traditional Moroccan townhouse with a courtyard — and in Marrakech, there are over 1,500 of them converted into guesthouses. Staying in a riad is not just accommodation, but a cultural experience: You sleep behind unassuming Medina doors in rooms with zellij mosaics, cedarwood ceilings, and tadelakt walls (polished lime plaster), have breakfast on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Medina, and are welcomed by a housekeeper who serves you mint tea.

€ Budget (300–600 MAD / 30–60 € per night)

Riad Dar Zaman · Riad Zitoun Lakdim — Charming small riad with 6 rooms, courtyard with orange trees, rooftop terrace. Breakfast included. Simple but authentic and lovingly run by a Moroccan-British couple. From 350 MAD/night.

Riad Laayoun · Derb el-Ferrane — 4 rooms, quiet location in the northern Medina, pool in the courtyard. Excellent breakfast with msemen (Moroccan crêpes) and freshly squeezed juice. From 400 MAD/night.

€€ Mid-range (600–1,500 MAD / 60–150 € per night)

Riad BE Marrakech · Derb Sidi Bouamar — Stylish mix of Moroccan design and modern comfort. Heated pool, hammam, excellent cuisine (dinner by reservation). 5 rooms, personal service. From 850 MAD/night.

Riad Kniza · 34 Derb l'Hôtel — One of the flagship riads since 2002. Museum-like decor with antique carpets, Berber jewelry, and art collection. Restaurant, spa, rooftop terrace. From 1,200 MAD/night.

€€€ Luxury (from 1,500 MAD / 150 €+ per night)

La Mamounia · Avenue Bab Jdid — The legendary palace hotel (since 1923), where Churchill painted and Hitchcock stayed. 209 rooms and suites, 8 hectares of gardens, 4 restaurants, spa. One of the most beautiful hotels in the world. From 4,000 MAD/night.

Royal Mansour · Rue Abou Abbas el Sebti — King Mohammed VI had this hotel built as a masterpiece of Moroccan craftsmanship. Each "suite" is its own three-story riad with a private pool. The service staff moves through underground tunnels so as not to disturb guests. From 8,000 MAD/night.

Where to Stay in the Medina?

• Riad Zitoun / Kasbah (South): Close to the Bahia Palace and Djemaa el-Fna. Many good riads, moderate prices. Recommended for first-time visitors.
• Mouassine / Bab Doukkala (North): Quieter, closer to the souks and Jardin Secret. Upscale riads.
• Sidi Ben Slimane (Northeast): The quietest, most authentic — but farthest from Djemaa el-Fna.
• Guéliz / Ville Nouvelle: Modern hotels, pool, air conditioning — but no Medina feel. Good for comfort travelers.

Marrakech is a culinary paradise — from street food for 10 MAD to palace dining for 1,000 MAD per person. Moroccan cuisine is one of the most complex in Africa: stews with spices perfected over centuries, bread as a sacred staple, and the art of creating incredible flavors from few ingredients.

The Classics

• Tajine: The national dish, named after the conical clay pot in which it simmers for hours. Most common variants: chicken with lemon and olives (Djaj Mhamer), lamb with prunes and almonds, kefta (meatballs) in tomato sauce with egg. A good tajine costs 40–80 MAD in a simple restaurant, 120–250 MAD upscale.
• Tanjia: Marrakech's specialty — a clay pot with lamb or beef, cumin, saffron, Ras el-Hanout, and preserved lemon, simmered overnight in the embers of a hammam oven. The tanjia is traditionally a men's dish, prepared by bachelors for the Friday gathering. Order it at least 12 hours in advance.
• Couscous: Traditionally served on Friday (family day). Steamed semolina with vegetables and meat or fish. Available in restaurants anytime. 50–120 MAD.
• Pastilla: Puff pastry pie, originally with pigeons, now mostly chicken, filled with almonds, eggs, and spices, dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar. The sweet-savory combination is unusual but brilliant. 60–120 MAD.

€ Street Food & Budget

Food stalls at Djemaa el-Fna — Grilled skewers (Brochettes) from 15 MAD, snail soup (Babbusch) 10 MAD, harira soup 10–15 MAD, sheep's head 30 MAD. Dare to try — the stalls with the most locals are the best.

Chez Bejgueni · Rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim — Tiny shop, famous for the best tanjia in town. Order in the morning, eat in the evening. 120 MAD for a pot (enough for 2 people).

Café Clock · 224 Derb Chtouka — Camel burger (yes, really!) for 85 MAD, Ras el-Hanout soup, fresh juices. Cultural center with Gnawa evenings and storytelling nights. Meeting point of the creative scene.

€€ Local Restaurants

Nomad · 1 Derb Aarjan, Rahba Lakdima — Modern Moroccan restaurant with a rooftop terrace and views over the souks. Tajines with a twist, excellent cocktails (also non-alcoholic). Reservation recommended. 150–300 MAD per person.

Le Jardin · 32 Souk Sidi Abdelaziz — Hidden in the Medina, a green courtyard with international cuisine and Moroccan classics. Salads, tajines, pastilla. 120–250 MAD per person.

€€€ Fine Dining

Dar Yacout · 79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi — The ultimate Moroccan dining experience. A 5-course feast (salads, pastilla, tajine, couscous, dessert) in a magnificent riad with live Gnawa music. 650 MAD per person. Reservation needed days in advance.

Al Fassia Aguedal · 55 Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni — Run exclusively by women. Considered one of the best Moroccan restaurants in the country. Perfect tajines, homemade pastilla, legendary mechoui (whole lamb). 200–400 MAD per person.

Drinks

Thé à la menthe (mint tea) is the national drink — green tea with fresh mint and lots of sugar, poured from a great height into small glasses. Refusing it is impolite. Alcohol is legal in Morocco but only available in licensed restaurants and hotels. Moroccan beer: Casablanca, Flag Spéciale (20–40 MAD). Moroccan wine (Gris de Boulaouane, Médaillon) is surprisingly good and affordable (from 80 MAD/bottle).

Marrakech is the perfect starting point for day trips into the High Atlas and the Moroccan hinterland. Within 1–3 hours, you can reach Berber villages, waterfalls, and mountain landscapes that offer a breathtaking contrast to the heat and chaos of the city.

Ourika Valley (1 hour)

The Ourika Valley begins just 30 km south of Marrakech and stretches along the Ourika River into the High Atlas. The landscape changes within minutes from dusty plains to green terraces, walnut groves, and Berber villages clinging to the rock walls.

• Setti Fatma (60 km, 1.5 hours) is the most popular destination: A Berber village at the end of the valley, from where you can ascend to 7 waterfalls. The first waterfall is reachable in 30 minutes (easy path), the upper ones require climbing and a local guide (100–150 MAD). Numerous riverside restaurants serve tajine with your feet in the water (60–100 MAD).
• Saffron Gardens of Tnine Ourika (45 km) — guided tour of a saffron farm with an explanation of cultivation and tasting. Saffron directly from the producer: 15–20 MAD/gram (market price in the souks: 25–40 MAD).
• Berber Museum Tafza — A small private museum showcasing the traditional life of the Amazigh (Berber): tools, costumes, jewelry, everyday items.

Getting There: Grand Taxi from Marrakech (Bab er-Rob) to Setti Fatma: 25–30 MAD per person (shared taxi, waits until full). Private taxi: 300–400 MAD round trip. Organized tour: 250–400 MAD per person.

Ouzoud Waterfalls (2.5 hours)

The Cascades d'Ouzoud are the highest and most spectacular waterfalls in Morocco at 110 meters high — and one of the most beautiful natural sights in North Africa. The water plunges in several cascades into an emerald green basin, surrounded by olive groves where Barbary macaques live.

• A hiking trail leads in 20 minutes from the parking lot down to the base of the falls. There, you can book boat rides right up to the waterfall (20 MAD) — you will get wet, but it's great.
• The Barbary macaques are everywhere and cheeky — don't carry open plastic bags, they steal food right from your hand!
• At the base of the waterfalls, there are restaurants with terraces directly above the river: tajine, grilled fish, mint tea. 60–100 MAD per meal.
• In summer (July–August), the falls are a popular swimming spot for Moroccan families — it gets crowded, but the atmosphere is delightful.

Getting There: No direct public bus. Private taxi from Marrakech: 600–800 MAD round trip (including 3–4 hours stay). Organized day tour: 300–500 MAD per person (including transport, guide, lunch sometimes included).

Other Day Trips

• Imlil & Toubkal National Park (1.5 hours): Starting point for treks to Jebel Toubkal (4,167 m, highest peak in North Africa). Also worthwhile as a day trip for a hike in the valley. Grand Taxi from Marrakech 30–40 MAD.
• Aït-Ben-Haddou (3.5 hours): UNESCO Ksar (mudbrick village), film set for Gladiator, Game of Thrones, and Lawrence of Arabia. Better as an overnight tour with a drive over the Tizi-n'Tichka Pass (2,260 m).
• Essaouira (2.5 hours): Relaxed port city on the Atlantic with a Portuguese fortress, Gnawa music, and fresh fish. Supratours bus from Marrakech: 80 MAD one way.

The Medersa Ben Youssef was once the largest Quranic school in North Africa and is now one of the most magnificent historical buildings in Marrakech. Built in the 14th century and extensively renovated in the 16th century under the Saadians, it housed up to 900 students in 130 small cells arranged around a central courtyard with a marble basin.

Architecture

The courtyard is a masterpiece: walls covered with zellij mosaics (geometric tile patterns), above them the finest stucco ornaments with arabesques and Quranic verses, and at the top carved cedarwood beams. The student cells (tiny, bare, without windows) offer a stark contrast to the splendor of the courtyard — a vivid image of the life of a medieval Quran student.

Le Jardin Secret

Just a few steps away is Le Jardin Secret — a restored riad garden from the 16th century, reopened in 2016 after decades of restoration. Two gardens (an exotic and an Islamic garden) with a historical irrigation system (Khettara) that still works. The tower offers one of the most beautiful panoramic views over the Medina (40 MAD extra) — Koutoubia, Atlas Mountains, rooftop landscape of the souks.