Food & Drink

Montenegro's cuisine is a melting pot of influences: Venetian and Italian on the coast, Ottoman in the south and east, Austro-Hungarian in remnants, and above all, the Balkan grilling and shepherding tradition of the mountains. The result is a cuisine that relies on top-quality ingredients — fresh fish, free-range lamb, mountain cheese, wild herbs — prepared simply but with love.

Dishes of the Coast

• Crni rižot (Black Risotto) — Risotto, blackened with squid ink, mixed with seafood. A coastal classic found in every good restaurant from Kotor to Ulcinj. 8–14€.
• Buzara — Mussels or shrimp in a sauce of white wine, garlic, olive oil, and tomatoes, served with bread for dipping. Simple and perfect. 10–18€.
• Grilled Fish — On the coast, freshly caught fish (gilt-head bream, sea bass, swordfish) is simply grilled, served with olive oil, lemon, and herbs. Always ask for the catch of the day! Price: often by weight, about 15–25€/kg.
• Lignje na žaru (Grilled Calamari) — Fresh squid from the grill, tender and flavorful. A standard dish on every coast. 8–12€.

Dishes of the Hinterland

• Ćevapi (Ćevapčići) — Small grilled minced meat rolls (beef/lamb), served in flatbread (lepinja) with onions and kajmak (creamy spreadable cheese). The national dish of the Balkans. A portion (5–10 pieces): 3–6€. Best in the konobas off the tourist trails.
• Njeguški steak — A pork steak, stuffed with Njeguški pršut (prosciutto) and Njeguški sir (cheese), grilled. The showcase dish of Montenegrin cuisine, named after the village of Njeguši on Lovćen. 8–14€.
• Kačamak — A hearty cornmeal mush, comparable to polenta, but enriched with kajmak and potatoes. Traditional mountain food, served in a cast-iron pan. Cheap and filling. 5–8€.
• Jagnjetina ispod sača (Lamb under the Bell) — Whole lamb, slowly cooked under a metal bell (sač) on embers, along with potatoes and vegetables. The feast of Montenegro — often needs to be ordered hours in advance, but it's definitely worth it. 12–18€ per person.

Njeguši Specialties

The mountain village of Njeguši (on Lovćen, between Kotor and Cetinje) is the culinary capital of Montenegro. Here, the two most famous products of the country are made:

• Njeguški pršut — Air-dried prosciutto, similar to Italian prosciutto, but smoked with beech wood and matured in the cold mountain air of Lovćen. More intense, smoky, and salty than prosciutto. A national treasure.
• Njeguški sir — A semi-hard cheese made from sheep's milk (sometimes mixed with cow's milk), mild and creamy. Perfect as an appetizer with pršut and olives.

Montenegrin Wine

Montenegro has a 2,000-year-old wine tradition that has experienced a renaissance in recent years. The main growing areas are around Lake Skadar and in the Crmnica Valley. The indigenous grape varieties are the heart:

• Vranac — THE Montenegrin red wine variety. Dark red, strong, with aromas of dark berries, plum, and spices. Comparable to a Primitivo or Malbec. Montenegro's flagship wine and an excellent companion to grilled dishes and cheese. Bottle from 5€ in the supermarket, 12–18€ in the restaurant.
• Krstač — An indigenous white wine, fresh and elegant with notes of citrus and white flowers. Perfect for fish dishes on the coast. Rarer than Vranac, but increasingly appreciated.
• Pro Corde — One of the best Vranac wines, produced by the Plantaže winery. Internationally awarded and a worthy souvenir.

Plantaže Winery — Montenegro's largest wine producer owns the largest contiguous vineyard in Europe (2,310 hectares) at Lake Skadar. Tours and tastings: from 10€. Register in advance!

Rakija

Rakija is the elixir of life of the Balkans — a fruit brandy made from grapes (lozovača), plums (šljivovica), pears (kruška), or honey (medovača). Every Montenegrin family makes their own, and the pride in their rakija is immense. In restaurants, it is served as an aperitif or digestif (1–3€), offered for free in the countryside. Warning: Homemade rakija is stronger than it tastes — start slowly!

Coffee

Coffee in Montenegro is a ritual, not a drink. The day begins with coffee, business is discussed over coffee, and friendships are nurtured over coffee. The three common preparations:

• Domaća kafa (Homemade Coffee) — Turkish-style coffee, finely ground, boiled in a džezva (copper pot). Strong, sweet, and with sediment. The original.
• Espresso — Standard in the coastal towns (Italian influence). Good and cheap: 1–1.50€.
• Kafa s mlijekom — Coffee with milk, similar to a latte.

A coffee in Montenegro lasts at least 30 minutes — not because it's so big, but because sitting and talking are part of it. Montenegrins drink an average of 5–6 cups per day. In the cafés of Podgorica and Budva, you can sit for hours without being pressured to reorder.

Montenegro's street food is cheap, filling, and available everywhere. At every bus stop, marketplace, and main street, you'll find snack bars (buregdžinica, ćevabdžinica) serving quick, hearty meals:

• Burek — Puff pastry filled with meat (burek sa mesom), cheese (sirnica), spinach (zeljanica), or potatoes (krompiruša). Fresh from the oven, greasy, crispy, and a complete meal for 1.50–2.50€. Best bought fresh in the morning.
• Pljeskavica — A large, flat minced meat patty (beef/pork), grilled and served in flatbread with kajmak, onions, ajvar, and hot sauce. Montenegro's answer to the burger. 3–5€.
• Palačinke (Pancakes) — Thin pancakes, sweet (Nutella, jam, cream) or savory (cheese, ham). Available everywhere as a snack. 2–4€.
• Fresh Fruit — At roadside stands in season: figs, pomegranates, watermelons, peaches, and grapes at bargain prices. In summer: watermelon for 0.50€/kg.
• Sladoled (Ice Cream) — The ice cream parlors on the coast serve homemade ice cream of Italian quality — scoop from 1€. Especially in Kotor and Herceg Novi, there are excellent gelaterias.

Markets: The most beautiful farmers' markets can be found in Herceg Novi (Pazarna, daily), Podgorica (Zelena pijaca, the largest in the country), and Cetinje. Here you can buy fresh vegetables, fruits, cheese, honey, and pickled vegetables directly from farmers — cheap and of a quality you won't find in supermarkets.