South & Lake Skadar

Cetinje (approx. 14,000 inhabitants) is located on a high plateau (670 m) at the foot of the Lovćen massif and was the capital of Montenegro from 1482 to 1918 — one of the smallest sovereign states in the world at the time. Despite its modest size, Cetinje was a diplomatic center with embassies of all the European great powers. Many of these elegant embassy buildings still stand and give the city a peculiar charm — as if a miniature capital had been transplanted into the mountains.

Sights

• Cetinje Monastery (Cetinjski manastir) — The spiritual center of the Serbian Orthodox Church in Montenegro, founded in 1484 by the founder of the Montenegrin state, Ivan Crnojević. The monastery houses some of the most valuable relics of the Orthodox world: the right hand of John the Baptist and a fragment of the Holy Cross. Free, appropriate clothing required.
• National Museum of Montenegro — Spread across several buildings: The Njegoš Museum (Biljarda) in the billiard room of the bishop-prince, the King Nikola Museum in the former royal palace (1871), and the Art Museum with a significant icon collection. Combo ticket: 10€.
• Embassy Buildings — A walk through Cetinje leads past the former embassies of France, Russia, Great Britain, Italy, Austria-Hungary, and the Ottoman Empire — monumental buildings for a city hardly larger than a village. This is the fascination of Cetinje: world history in miniature format.
• Vlach Church (Vlaška crkva) — This 15th-century Orthodox church is surrounded by a fence forged from captured Ottoman rifle barrels. A unique war memorial and a testament to the centuries-long struggles against the Ottoman Empire.

Arrival & Tips

You can reach Cetinje from Kotor via the serpentine road over the Lovćen Pass (25 bends, breathtaking views, 1 hour) or from Podgorica (36 km, 40 min.). The city is compact and walkable. Plan 3–4 hours. The strongest coffee in Montenegro is served in the cafés on the main boulevard — along with a piece of the local Priganice (fried dough balls with honey). Cetinje seems almost sleepy, but that is precisely its charm: here you feel the real, unadulterated Montenegro.

The Lake Skadar (Skadarsko Jezero) is the largest lake in the Balkans and one of the most important wetlands in Europe. It spans 370–530 km² (depending on water level) on the border between Montenegro and Albania, with about two-thirds belonging to Montenegro. Since 1983, the Montenegrin part has been a national park.

Nature & Birdlife

Lake Skadar is a bird paradise of European significance — over 280 bird species have been recorded here, including:

• Dalmation Pelicans (Pelecanus crispus) — The largest pelican colony in Europe breeds here. These majestic birds with wingspans of up to 3.5 meters are endangered — Lake Skadar is one of their last refuges. Best observed from March to June.
• Cormorants, Herons, Spoonbills — Thousands of wading and water birds inhabit the lake. In spring and autumn, migratory birds also rest here on their route between Europe and Africa.
• White-tailed Eagles — The symbol animal of the national park nests in the cliffs above the lake.

Besides the birdlife, the lake impresses with vast fields of water lilies (from June to September), transforming entire bays into carpets of white and yellow blooms. The fish fauna includes over 50 species, including the endemic Lake Skadar carp (Cyprinus carpio).

Activities

• Boat Tour — The classic way to experience the lake. Local fishermen offer tours in traditional wooden boats (2–3 hours, 15–30€ per person). You glide through reed channels, water lily fields, and past sunken monasteries. Starting points: Virpazar, Rijeka Crnojevića, Murići.
• Kayaking — For the active, the most intense way to experience the lake. Kayaks can be rented in Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića (from 15€/half day). Especially the channels and water lily fields near Rijeka Crnojevića are magical.
• Wine Tasting — The region around Lake Skadar is Montenegro's most important wine-growing area. The indigenous grape variety Vranac (a robust red wine) and Krstač (an elegant white wine) thrive on the slopes above the lake. Wineries like Plantaže (Montenegro's largest producer) offer tastings (10–20€ with snacks).
• Hiking — Several hiking trails lead to viewpoints over the lake. The panoramic point Pavlova Strana on the road from Cetinje to Rijeka Crnojevića offers one of Montenegro's most famous photo motifs: the winding river loop of the Crnojevića, which flows into the lake like a green meander.

Monasteries & Islands

In and around Lake Skadar, there are numerous Orthodox monasteries and churches, many of them on tiny islands or hard-to-reach rocky outcrops:

• Kom Monastery — On an island in the lake, accessible only by boat. Atmospheric, tranquil, and a place of deep spirituality.
• Beška Monastery — On the island of the same name, with a 14th-century church and a beautiful garden.
• Starčevo Monastery — On an island near the northern shore, an active monastery with monks living according to centuries-old rules.

Podgorica (approx. 190,000 inhabitants) is Montenegro's capital and by far the largest city in the country — yet it is often overlooked by most travelers. This is understandable on one hand: Podgorica is not a classic beauty. In World War II, the city was bombed 70 times and almost completely destroyed. What followed was socialist reconstruction without charm. However, Podgorica has remarkably transformed in recent years and deserves a closer look.

What Podgorica Offers

• Morača River & Bridges — The emerald Morača River flows through the city and offers the most photogenic motifs with its bridges. The Millennium Bridge (Sveti Nikola Bridge, 2005) is the modern landmark — an elegant cable-stayed bridge illuminated at night. The old stone bridge (Stari Most) from the 18th century charmingly contrasts with the modernity.
• Old Town (Stara Varoš) — The small Ottoman quarter with narrow alleys, a mosque, and the clock tower (Sahat kula) reminds us that Podgorica was under Ottoman rule for 500 years. Here you will find the best Ćevapi restaurants in the city.
• Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ — The imposing new Serbian Orthodox cathedral (2013) with its golden domes dominates the skyline. Inside: modern frescoes in Byzantine style. A statement of modern Montenegro.
• Café and Bar Scene — Podgorica has the liveliest café culture in Montenegro. Locals sit for hours over coffee and conversation — the cafés along the "Njegoševa" street and around the "Trg Republike" are the city's living room. In the evening: a surprisingly good bar and restaurant scene.

Day Trips from Podgorica

Podgorica is an excellent starting point for day trips:

• Ostrog Monastery (50 km) — The most impressive monastery in the Balkans, built into a vertical rock face. A pilgrimage site that attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims of all faiths annually. The upper church seems to float in the rock face. Free, accessible by car or bus (1h).
• Niagara Waterfall (Cijevna) — A small but photogenic waterfall on the Cijevna River, just 15 km south of the city. Perfect for swimming and picnicking.
• Lake Skadar (Virpazar) — 30 km south, accessible by train (30 min., 2€) or car.
• Cetinje — 36 km west, 40 min. by car or bus (3€).

Practical: Podgorica has Montenegro's largest airport (TGD) with connections to Germany (Ryanair, Wizz Air, Eurowings). The city is the central hub of Montenegro's bus network — all intercity buses pass through Podgorica. As a place to stay, Podgorica is significantly cheaper than the coast (hotels from 35€, restaurants 30–50% cheaper). Plan 1 day for the city — but don't miss Podgorica if you want to understand the real Montenegro.

Ulcinj (approx. 11,000 inhabitants) is Montenegro's southernmost city and a world of its own. Just 25 km from the Albanian border, Ulcinj is predominantly Albanian-populated and has a completely different atmosphere than the rest of the coast: mosques instead of churches, Albanian cuisine, Ottoman architecture, and a rugged, authentic energy reminiscent of Turkey.

Beaches

• Velika Plaža (Great Beach) — At 13 kilometers, the longest sandy beach on the Adriatic. Fine, dark sand, shallow water (ideal for families), kite-surfable wind, and a vastness reminiscent of North Africa. At the northern end: beach bars and restaurants. At the southern end (near the Albanian border): almost deserted and wild. Here you will also find nudist areas and the Ada Bojana.
• Ada Bojana — A triangular river island at the mouth of the Bojana into the Adriatic. The island is famous for its stilted fish restaurants (Kalimera), nudist tourism, and kite surfing. The restaurants serve the freshest fish in Montenegro — straight from the river and the sea. A unique place.
• Mala Plaža (Small Beach) — The city beach below the old town. Small but charming, with views of the fortress walls.

Old Town (Stari Grad)

The Old Town of Ulcinj perches on a rocky outcrop above the sea and is one of the oldest on the Adriatic (founded in the 5th century BC as a Greek colony, then Illyrian, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, Ottoman). The massive walls, the church-turned-mosque main mosque, and the view over the open sea tell stories of pirates, slaves, and conquerors. Legend has it that Miguel de Cervantes was held here as a slave — and was inspired by Ulcinj for characters in Don Quixote.

Ulcinj is also an important site for the Solana Ulcinj — a large salt pan south of the city, which is one of the most significant bird sanctuaries on the Adriatic. Over 250 bird species rest here, including flamingos, pelicans, and black storks. Best observed in spring and autumn.