Alfama & Castelo★★★
The Alfama is the oldest district of Lisbon and the heart of the city. The labyrinth of narrow streets, steep stairs, and tiny squares is the only district that largely survived the devastating earthquake of 1755 — because it is built on solid rock. Here, Lisbon still lives as it did a hundred years ago: laundry hangs between the houses, neighbors call to each other across the street, and the sound of Fado singing drifts from open windows.
The district was once the Moorish center of the city (Alfama comes from the Arabic al-hamma, "hot springs") and has retained its oriental character: winding alleys without recognizable logic, sudden dead ends, hidden courtyards, and viewpoints that open unexpectedly. The Miradouro de Santa Luzia offers one of the most beautiful views over the red rooftops to the Tagus — framed by bougainvillea vines and azulejo murals.
Above Alfama towers the Castelo de São Jorge, the Moorish fortress from the 11th century, conquered by Afonso Henriques in 1147 during the Reconquista. The castle itself is architecturally modest, but the 360-degree panoramic view over Lisbon, the Tagus, and the Ponte 25 de Abril is breathtaking. It's best to come at sunset — when the city is bathed in golden light and the ferries draw white streaks across the river. Incidentally, dozens of peacocks live in the castle grounds, strutting among the tourists.
Every Tuesday and Saturday, the famous Feira da Ladra takes place on the Campo de Santa Clara — Lisbon's oldest flea market. Here you can find everything from antique azulejos to vintage jewelry to old records. It's worth coming early: the best pieces are gone by 10 am. Haggling is allowed and expected — start at 50% of the quoted price.
In the evening, Alfama transforms into the epicenter of Fado. In dozens of small restaurants and taverns, Fadistas sing their melancholic songs, accompanied by the twelve-stringed guitarra portuguesa. Touristy, but still moving: the Clube de Fado (Rua São João da Praça 92, menu from €40) or the more intimate Tasca do Chico (Rua dos Remédios 83, no reservation, Fado starts around 9 pm).
💡 Tipp
The famous Tram 28 runs through Alfama and is an attraction in itself — but also a magnet for pickpockets. Ride early in the morning (before 9 am) or use the lesser-known Tram 12E, which takes a similar route but is almost empty. A ride costs €3.00 cash or €1.65 with the Viva Viagem card.
Castelo de São Jorge★★★
The castle is Lisbon's most visited attraction, and rightly so — less for the architecture than for the view. From the battlements of the Moorish walls, you can see the entire city: the red roofs of Alfama, the white Baixa, the wide Tejo with its ferries, the Cristo-Rei statue on the other side, and in clear weather, the Serra da Arrábida to the south.
The site includes several areas: the actual citadel with eleven towers (which you can climb), the archaeological area with remains from the Iron Age, Roman times, and Moorish period, and the beautiful gardens with cork oaks, olive trees, and the aforementioned peacocks. The multimedia exhibition "Olisipónia" in the Torre de Ulisses shows the city's history and has a walk-in Camera Obscura that projects live images of the city onto a disc.
The climb to the castle is steep but rewarding. From Praça da Figueira or Martim Moniz, several paths lead up. If you want to save your legs, take the bus 737 directly to the entrance. Admission is 15€ for adults, children under 12 are free. In the evening (in summer until 9 PM), the castle is at its most beautiful and least crowded.