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Verstehen · Kapitel 8

Reykjavik: History & Northern Lights

Reykjavik Reiseführer

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VerstehenKapitel 8: History & Northern Lights

Verstehen · Kapitel 8

By the HolidayGenie editorial team ·

From the Vikings who founded the world's oldest parliament over a thousand years ago to the Northern Lights that have illuminated the Icelandic sky for millennia — Iceland's history is as dramatic as its nature.

Vikings, Sagas & the Formation of Iceland

Iceland's history begins surprisingly late — the island was one of the last major landmasses on Earth to be settled. Before the Vikings, only Irish monks (Papar) lived here, seeking solitude and disappearing upon the arrival of the Norsemen.

The Settlement (874 AD)

The Norwegian chieftain Ingólfur Arnarson is considered the first permanent settler of Iceland. According to legend, he threw his high-seat pillars overboard and settled where they washed ashore — in a bay full of steam, which he named Reykjavík: "Smoke Bay," after the geothermal steam rising from the ground. This name has remained to this day.

The Althing (930 AD)

In the year 930, the Icelandic settlers founded the Althing (Alþingi) in Þingvellir — the oldest parliamentary assembly in the world. Once a year, the chieftains (Goden) met to enact laws, settle disputes, and conduct business. The Althing met in Þingvellir for almost 900 years before it was moved to Reykjavik in 1845.

The Sagas

Iceland's Sagas — the great family stories of the Middle Ages — are among the most significant literary works in European history. Written in the 13th century, they tell of honor, revenge, love, and survival in a merciless nature. The Njáls Saga, the Egils Saga, and the Laxdæla Saga are masterpieces that predate Shakespeare. Icelanders still read them today — and all the locations are real and walkable.

From Foreign Rule to Independence

Norwegian and Danish Rule

In 1262, Iceland submitted to the Norwegian crown, and in 1380 it came under Danish rule along with Norway. Centuries of decline followed: volcanic eruptions (the Laki eruption in 1783 killed a quarter of the population and caused a famine across Europe), epidemics, pirate raids (in 1627, Algerian pirates kidnapped 400 Icelanders into slavery), and the Danish trade monopoly that economically drained Iceland.

The Independence Movement

In the 19th century, Icelandic nationalism awakened. The poet and politician Jón Sigurðsson (his birthday, June 17, is now a national holiday) led the fight for self-governance. In 1918, Iceland gained sovereignty under the Danish crown, and on June 17, 1944 — while Denmark was occupied by Nazi Germany — Iceland declared the Republic in Þingvellir. 40,000 people celebrated in the rain — with a population of 120,000.

The Modern Miracle

Within a few decades, Iceland transformed from one of the poorest countries in Europe to one of the richest. The keys: fishing, geothermal energy, aluminum, and tourism. The financial crisis of 2008 hit Iceland harder than almost any other country — all three major banks collapsed in a single weekend, the krona plummeted. But Iceland recovered remarkably quickly, partly because the Icelanders were the only people to actually bring their bank managers to court and convict them.

Northern Lights — Aurora Borealis

The Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) are one of the greatest natural spectacles on Earth — and Reykjavik is one of the most accessible places to experience them. When charged particles from the sun collide with the Earth's atmosphere, they cause oxygen and nitrogen molecules to glow: Green (most common), Purple, Pink, and rarely Red.

When and where

  • Season: September to March (dark enough). Best months: October, February, and March.
  • Time: Usually between 9 PM and 2 AM, but can occur earlier or later.
  • Conditions: Clear sky + high solar activity (KP index 3+). You can find the forecast at vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora — the Icelandic weather office shows both the Northern Lights activity and cloud cover.
  • Best spots in/near Reykjavik: Grótta Lighthouse (Seltjarnarnes), Öskjuhlíð Hill (near Perlan), Viðey Island, and on any road outside the center where street lighting ends.

Northern Lights Tours

Organized tours (from €50, 3–4 hours) take you to the best spots away from the city — the guide knows the current weather and aurora conditions and drives to where the sky is clear. Most providers guarantee a free repeat if no Northern Lights are seen. However: You don't need a tour. A rental car, 20 minutes out of the city, and a bit of patience are often enough.

Photography Tips

  • Tripod: Essential — exposure times of 5–15 seconds are necessary.
  • Settings: ISO 1600–3200, aperture f/2.8 or larger, 8–15 seconds exposure.
  • Manual focus: Set to infinity, don't let the autofocus struggle.
  • Batteries: Cold drains batteries — keep spare batteries warm in your jacket pocket.

Tipp

Northern Lights are unpredictable — sometimes they dance for hours, sometimes just a brief shimmer appears. Plan for several evenings and accept that nature does not deliver on demand. The best strategy: Take a quick look outside every clear evening (check vedur.is!) and stay flexible. When they do appear — and they will — it is a moment that changes everything.

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