Discovering Edinburgh
Edinburgh (pronounced "Eddinbra," never "Edinburg"!) is a city that couldn't be more dramatic. The medieval Old Town clings to a ridge between the Castle at one end and the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the other. The Georgian New Town spreads elegantly at the foot of the hill. In between: the extinct volcano Arthur's Seat, a 251 m high hill right in the city. 530,000 inhabitants live in this city, which is so compact that you can reach all the important sights on foot.
What makes Edinburgh special: the UNESCO-protected Old Town and New Town, one of the best-preserved historic urban landscapes in Europe. Plus, a cultural offering that becomes the world's largest stage in August (Edinburgh Festival Fringe). Off the beaten tourist path, you'll find hidden alleys (Closes), underground vaults, ghost stories, and a vibrant culinary scene that offers far more than just haggis and fish and chips.
Plan for at least 2–3 days in Edinburgh. One day for the Castle and Royal Mile, one day for New Town, museums, and Calton Hill, and one day for hiking on Arthur's Seat, strolling in Stockbridge, and dining in Leith. Those visiting in August need at least a week for the festival.
Orientation
Edinburgh is compact and easily explored on foot. The main districts:
- Old Town: The medieval old town along the Royal Mile ridge. Castle, St Giles' Cathedral, hidden Closes, pubs, and whisky bars. Narrow, steep, atmospheric.
- New Town: The elegant Georgian city (planned in 1767) north of the Old Town. Princes Street with views of the Castle, George Street with boutiques and bars, Queen Street with the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.
- Grassmarket: The historic marketplace below the Castle. Today: pubs, restaurants, and indie shops. Once an execution site — the atmosphere is still slightly morbid.
- Stockbridge: Boho district north of the New Town by the Water of Leith. Sunday market, antique shops, bakeries, and the beautiful Botanical Garden (free!).
- Leith: Edinburgh's port, once rough, now hip. Michelin restaurants next to fish-and-chip shops, the Royal Yacht Britannia, and a lively bar scene.
- Arthur's Seat: The extinct volcano (251 m) in Holyrood Park — a real mountain hike in the middle of the capital. 45 minutes to the summit, 360° panorama.
