Catania — The Black Baroque City

Catania is Sicily's second-largest city (310,000 inhabitants) and the rough, energetic counterpoint to elegant Palermo. Destroyed by Etna seven times, rebuilt seven times — most recently after the devastating earthquake of 1693, when the entire city was reborn in black baroque from dark lava stone. The result is a city of somber beauty: black palaces with white marble accents, dramatic baroque churches, and wide boulevards that create an almost surreal contrast in the Sicilian sunlight.

The Piazza del Duomo is the center: Here stands the city's landmark — the Elephant Fountain (Fontana dell'Elefante): an elephant made of black lava stone carrying an Egyptian obelisk. Behind it rises the Cathedral of Sant'Agata (with the relics of the city's patron saint, whose festival on February 5th is one of Italy's largest religious spectacles). The Via Etnea, Catania's elegant main street, stretches 3 km straight north from the Duomo — with Etna at the end of the line of sight, perfectly closing the street.

Catania's La Pescheria (fish market) is the raw counterpart to Palermo's Ballarò: Every morning (except Sunday), the square behind Piazza del Duomo transforms into a deafening spectacle of shouting fishmongers, swordfish, tuna, sea urchins, and octopuses. Behind it: restaurants that immediately prepare the freshly bought fish. The granita from Catania is considered the best in Sicily — especially almond or pistachio, with a warm brioche bun. In the morning, it's a must.

Catania also has the best nightlife in Sicily: The San Berillo Vecchio district and the area around Via Teatro Massimo offer bars, clubs, and live music until the early hours. The university (one of the oldest in Europe, 1434) provides a young, vibrant atmosphere that Palermo lacks.