Palermo & the Northwest

Palermo is the capital of Sicily and one of the most fascinating cities in Europe — a city you either love or find overwhelming, often both at the same time. With 630,000 inhabitants, it is the fifth-largest city in Italy and a palimpsest of cultures: Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Hohenstaufen, Spaniards, and Bourbons have left their marks — and none has ever been completely erased.

The heart of the city beats at the Quattro Canti (Piazza Vigliena) — a Baroque crossroads where the two main axes of the old town intersect. From here, all the highlights are within walking distance. The Palazzo dei Normanni (Norman Palace) was the residence of the Arab emirs and then the Norman kings — its Cappella Palatina is a masterpiece of art history: A palace chapel whose walls and ceiling are entirely covered with Byzantine gold mosaics — Christ Pantocrator, saints, and biblical scenes in a splendor that takes your breath away. The wooden ceiling is of Arabic-Islamic style — the fusion of Byzantine, Islamic, and Latin art in one place is unique worldwide.

The Cathedral of Palermo is an architectural marvel: an Arab-Norman layout with Catalan-Gothic additions and a neoclassical dome. Inside rest the sarcophagi of Emperor Frederick II (the "Stupor Mundi"), King Roger II, and other rulers in porphyry coffins. The tour over the cathedral roofs offers a panorama over the entire city. In the old town district of Kalsa (from the Arabic al-Khalisa, "the Pure"), winding alleys stretch between decaying and restored palaces — the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia in Palazzo Abatellis displays Antonello da Messina's "Annunziata" and the harrowing "Triumph of Death".

Palermo's street markets are legendary: The Ballarò (the oldest, loudest, and most authentic), the Vucciria (once the main market, now more of a nightlife hotspot), and the Capo (the best-stocked) — here swordfish, artichokes, spices, cheeses, and street food stalls pile up in a sound and smellscape reminiscent of an Arab souk.

Palermo is the street food capital of Europe — and that's no exaggeration. The culinary tradition of eating on the street dates back to the Arab rule, and today Palermo is, alongside Bangkok, Mexico City, and Marrakech, one of the great street food metropolises of the world. What makes Palermo unique: The food is not only cheap and quick but of the highest culinary standard — many of the snacks could pass as appetizers in any restaurant.

The Classics

• Arancina/Arancino — Fried rice balls filled with ragù (meat sauce), mozzarella, peas, or ham and cheese. In Palermo, it's called "Arancina" (feminine, round), in Catania "Arancino" (masculine, cone-shaped) — a culinary dispute that has raged for generations. Price: 1.50–3€.
• Panelle — Fried chickpea fritters served between a sesame bun (Pane e Panelle). Often accompanied by Crocchè (fried potato croquettes). Price: 2–3€. Origin: Arabic.
• Sfincione — Palermo's answer to pizza: A thick, soft yeast dough base topped with tomato sauce, onions, anchovies, Caciocavallo cheese, and breadcrumbs. Cut into squares and often sold by street vendors. Price: 2–3€.
• Stigghiola — Not for everyone: Rolled lamb or goat intestines, seasoned with parsley and spring onions, grilled over charcoal. Sounds unusual, tastes fantastic — smoky, spicy, crispy. Price: 3–5€.
• Pane con la Milza (Pani câ Meusa) — Palermo's most famous street food: Soft sesame bun filled with braised and then fried spleen and lung. "Schietta" (single) = just meat with lemon. "Maritata" (married) = with ricotta and Caciocavallo. A delicacy of the Jewish quarters. Price: 3–5€.
• Cannolo — The crispy pastry tube, freshly filled with sweet ricotta cream, pistachios, or candied fruits. Only filled upon ordering (anything else is a crime). Price: 2–4€.

The best street food stalls can be found at the Ballarò and Capo markets (during the day) and around the Vucciria (in the evening). A guided street food tour (15–35€, 2–3 hours) is an excellent introduction — many guides are passionate locals who know stories for every bite.

Monreale, 8 km above Palermo, is home to one of the greatest artworks in human history: the Norman cathedral (1174–1185) with 6,340 square meters of Byzantine gold mosaics. King William II had the cathedral built as a sign of his power and piety — and the result surpasses anything Rome, Ravenna, or Constantinople have to offer.

Entering the cathedral takes your breath away: Above the altar stands a 20-meter-high Christ Pantocrator — his gaze seems to look directly into the eyes of every visitor. The walls tell the entire Bible in gold-glimmering mosaics: the Creation of the World, Adam and Eve, the story of Noah, the life of Christ — scene by scene, in a detail and beauty that has lost none of its impact after 850 years. The cloister (Chiostro dei Benedettini) next to the cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque-Arab architecture: 228 double columns, each decorated differently, with mosaics, reliefs, and fantastic capitals.

Cefalù, 70 km east of Palermo on the northern coast, is one of the most photogenic towns in Sicily: A medieval old town squeezed between a massive rock (La Rocca, 268 m) and the sea, dominated by the Norman cathedral (1131) with its famous mosaics — another Christ Pantocrator, smaller than in Monreale but equally impressive in its intensity. The climb to the Rocca di Cefalù (30–45 minutes) rewards with a panorama over the red roofs, the cathedral, the beach, and the coast.

Cefalù's Lungomare (seafront promenade) is one of the most beautiful in Italy: a long sandy beach right in front of the old town, framed by fishing boats, with a view of the medieval silhouette. Cefalù is also the unofficial capital of the Madonie — the wooded mountain range inland, ideal for hikes and village visits away from the coastal hustle. In Castelbuono (30 minutes inland), the Pasticceria Fiasconaro makes perhaps the best panettone in Sicily.

Erice sits at an elevation of 751 meters on Monte San Giuliano, high above Trapani and the sea — a medieval mountain village that literally floats in the clouds on foggy days. The Phoenicians worshipped Astarte here, the Greeks Aphrodite, the Romans Venus — the mountain has been a sacred place for millennia, and its mystical atmosphere is still palpable today.

The old town is a perfectly preserved medieval ensemble: cobbled lanes winding between stone walls, Norman churches, Gothic windows with flower balconies, and a silence that surprises in noisy Sicily. At the eastern edge stands the Castello di Venere (Venus Castle) — a Norman fortress on the foundations of the ancient Temple of Venus. From the battlements, there is a breathtaking panoramic view in clear weather: Trapani, the salt pans, the Aegadian Islands, Marsala, and on particularly clear days, even Tunisia on the horizon.

Erice is also known for its pasticceria: The famous Pasticceria Maria Grammatico — founded by a woman who grew up as an orphan in a convent and learned the secrets of monastic sweets there — sells almond pastries, Frutta Martorana (marzipan fruits), and Genovesi (warm shortcrust pastry pockets with vanilla cream) that are among the best in Sicily. An espresso and a Genovese on Piazza San Domenico, overlooking the misty valley, is one of the perfect Sicilian moments.

The journey to Erice is an experience: The Funivia (cable car) from Trapani (10 minutes, 9€ round trip) glides over vineyards and salt pans to the summit — it doesn't get more spectacular than this. Alternatively, take the winding road by car (30 minutes from Trapani). In winter, Erice is regularly shrouded in fog and clouds — a mystical, almost Scottish atmosphere that enhances the charm of the place.