Southeast — Syracuse, Noto & Agrigento

Syracuse (Siracusa) was in the 5th century BC the most powerful and richest city in the entire Greek world — larger than Athens, culturally more brilliant than Sparta, and economically dominant in the western Mediterranean. Here lived Archimedes (the most famous scientist of antiquity), here Syracuse defeated the Athenian fleet in the greatest naval battle of Greek history (413 BC), and here the Christianization of Europe began (Paul preached here on his way to Rome).

The historic center is located on Ortigia — a tiny island (1 km²), connected to the mainland by two bridges, forming one of the most atmospheric old town districts in all of Italy. Baroque palaces, Greek temple remnants, Norman churches, and lively piazzas overlap in a small space. The Cathedral (Duomo) is a unique structure: The Baroque facade conceals the Temple of Athena (5th century BC) — the Doric columns of the ancient temple are integrated into the church walls and visible from the inside. Greek, Christian, and Baroque in one building.

The Fonte Aretusa on the shore of Ortigia is a freshwater spring directly by the sea, where papyrus grows — a botanical wonder and the setting of the Greek myth of the nymph Arethusa. The Mercato di Ortigia (in the morning) is one of the liveliest markets in Sicily: swordfish, seafood, cheese, olives, spices, and freshly squeezed orange juices.

On the mainland lies the Archaeological Park Neapolis: The Greek Theater (5th century BC, carved into the rock, 15,000 seats — still used for ancient dramas in summer), the Ear of Dionysius (a 23-meter-high, drop-shaped cave with astonishing acoustics — Caravaggio gave it the name), and the Roman Amphitheater (one of the largest in the Roman world). The Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi houses one of the most important archaeological collections in the Mediterranean.

The Val di Noto is one of the largest Baroque ensembles in the world — and one of the most impressive stories of destruction and rebirth. On January 11, 1693, a devastating earthquake (magnitude 7.4) destroyed the entire southeast of Sicily: 60,000 people died, dozens of towns were razed to the ground. What followed was a miracle of architecture: The towns were not simply rebuilt but completely redesigned — in the Sicilian Late Baroque, an exuberant, theatrical architecture that ranks among the most beautiful in Europe. In 2002, UNESCO recognized eight towns as World Heritage.

Noto is the crowning jewel of Val di Noto — a town conceived like a Baroque stage set. The Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street, runs through the town like a theatrical axis, lined with golden limestone palaces, churches, and staircases. The honey-colored limestone (Pietra di Noto) glows in an unreal gold at sunset — Noto is then the most beautiful town in Sicily and a dream for photographers. The Cattedrale di San Nicolò towers at the end of a monumental staircase, the Palazzo Nicolaci has the most opulent Baroque balconies on the island (carved cherubs, lions, sirens, and mythical creatures), and the Chiesa di Santa Chiara offers a panorama over the old town from its terrace.

Ragusa Ibla is Noto's rival in the Baroque beauty contest: The lower old town district cascades down a hill, crowned by the Dom di San Giorgio — a theatrical Baroque facade with a staircase cascading down the hill. Ragusa Ibla served as the backdrop for the TV series "Il Commissario Montalbano" and has retained its sleepy charm. Fewer tourists than Noto, but more atmosphere.

Modica is famous for its chocolate: The "Cioccolato di Modica" (protected IGP) is made according to an Aztec recipe brought by the Spaniards in the 16th century — the cocoa is processed at low temperatures so that the sugar crystals do not melt, creating a grainy, intense texture. In Modica's old town, chocolateries line up — Antica Dolceria Bonajuto (since 1880) is the most famous. Try the varieties with chili, cinnamon, vanilla, or citrus peel.

The Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi) near Agrigento is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world — and the most emotional place to grasp the grandeur of Greek colonization in the western Mediterranean. On a ridge above the southern coast, seven Doric temples from the 5th century BC line up, surrounded by ancient olive trees and almond plantations, with the sea on the horizon. At sunset, when the limestone glows golden and the temples stand out against the evening sky, this is one of the most moving places of the ancient world.

The Temple of Concordia is the highlight: One of the best-preserved Greek temples ever — fully intact with all 34 columns, the pediment, and the roof. Its state of preservation is due to its conversion into a Christian church in the 6th century. The Temple of Juno (Hera/Juno Temple) at the eastern end of the ridge offers the best sunset view. The Temple of Heracles is the oldest (around 500 BC) — only eight columns remain, but the atmosphere is magical. The Temple of Olympian Zeus was the largest Doric temple ever planned (113 × 56 m) — never completed and now a ruin, but the fallen telamons (8-meter-high Atlas figures) give an idea of the gigantic ambition.

The ancient city of Akragas (Greek) was in the 5th century BC one of the largest and richest cities of the Greek world — the poet Pindar called it "the most beautiful city of mortals." Up to 200,000 people lived here, more than today (about 55,000). The Museo Archeologico Regionale complements the visit with excellent finds, including the reconstructed telamons and a unique collection of Greek vases.

In February and March, the Valley of the Temples transforms into a sea of blossoms: The almond trees bloom in white and pink between the ancient columns — the Almond Blossom Festival (Sagra del Mandorlo in Fiore) in February is a colorful folk festival with folklore, music, and costumes from around the world.

The Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina in the interior of Sicily houses the most extensive and best-preserved Roman floor mosaics in the world — 3,500 square meters of colorful mosaic floors from the 4th century AD, which adorned an imperial luxury villa. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997, the villa is one of the most fascinating testimonies of Roman lifestyle.

The mosaics depict scenes of astonishing liveliness: gladiator fights, hunting scenes in Africa (with elephants, leopards, and ostriches), mythological representations (Odysseus and Polyphemus, Arion on the dolphin), and — the most famous motif — the "Bikini Girls": Ten young women in two-piece swimsuits engaging in sports (running, discus throwing, ball games). The depiction proves that the bikini is not an invention of the 20th century and has become a pop-cultural symbol of the villa.

The villa likely belonged to a high-ranking Roman senator or even Emperor Maximian (co-emperor of Diocletian) and served as a hunting residence and place of representation. The quality of the mosaics — presumably created by North African master workshops — is of a detail and color brilliance that fascinates even after 1,700 years. The visit takes about 1.5–2 hours on a circular path over walkways above the mosaics.

Piazza Armerina itself is a charming mountain town (700 m altitude) with a Norman cathedral and an old town that sees significantly fewer tourists than the coastal towns. The drive from Catania or Syracuse takes about 1.5 hours through Sicily's green, hilly interior — a welcome change from the coastal heat.