Noto & Val di Noto — Baroque in Gold★★★
The Val di Noto is one of the largest Baroque ensembles in the world — and one of the most impressive stories of destruction and rebirth. On January 11, 1693, a devastating earthquake (magnitude 7.4) destroyed the entire southeast of Sicily: 60,000 people died, dozens of towns were razed to the ground. What followed was a miracle of architecture: The towns were not simply rebuilt but completely redesigned — in the Sicilian Late Baroque, an exuberant, theatrical architecture that ranks among the most beautiful in Europe. In 2002, UNESCO recognized eight towns as World Heritage.
Noto is the crowning jewel of Val di Noto — a town conceived like a Baroque stage set. The Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street, runs through the town like a theatrical axis, lined with golden limestone palaces, churches, and staircases. The honey-colored limestone (Pietra di Noto) glows in an unreal gold at sunset — Noto is then the most beautiful town in Sicily and a dream for photographers. The Cattedrale di San Nicolò towers at the end of a monumental staircase, the Palazzo Nicolaci has the most opulent Baroque balconies on the island (carved cherubs, lions, sirens, and mythical creatures), and the Chiesa di Santa Chiara offers a panorama over the old town from its terrace.
Ragusa Ibla is Noto's rival in the Baroque beauty contest: The lower old town district cascades down a hill, crowned by the Dom di San Giorgio — a theatrical Baroque facade with a staircase cascading down the hill. Ragusa Ibla served as the backdrop for the TV series "Il Commissario Montalbano" and has retained its sleepy charm. Fewer tourists than Noto, but more atmosphere.
Modica is famous for its chocolate: The "Cioccolato di Modica" (protected IGP) is made according to an Aztec recipe brought by the Spaniards in the 16th century — the cocoa is processed at low temperatures so that the sugar crystals do not melt, creating a grainy, intense texture. In Modica's old town, chocolateries line up — Antica Dolceria Bonajuto (since 1880) is the most famous. Try the varieties with chili, cinnamon, vanilla, or citrus peel.
