La Gomera — Garajonay & Silence★★
La Gomera is the second smallest of the main islands (370 km², 22,000 inhabitants) — and the most original. No airport runway (only ferry or propeller plane from Tenerife), no mass tourism, no hotel complexes. Instead: A UNESCO World Heritage cloud forest, deep ravines (Barrancos), terraced fields, and a whistling language (Silbo Gomero) still used by locals today.
The Garajonay National Park covers a third of the island — a relic from the Tertiary period when all of southern Europe looked like this. Moss-covered laurel trees, giant ferns, mystical fog, absolute silence. Hiking here is not a pastime but a way of life.
La Gomera is perfect for 3–4 days as a complement to Tenerife (ferry from Los Cristianos: 50 min., from 35 € round trip).
Garajonay & Highlights
★★★ Garajonay National Park
An 11 million-year-old cloud forest — UNESCO World Heritage since 1986. Here grow laurel species that became extinct in the rest of Europe during the Ice Ages: stink laurel, Canarian holly, tree heath. The forest looks like something out of a Tolkien novel: moss-covered tree trunks, hanging lichens, mystical fog drifting through the canopies.
Best Hikes:
- El Cedro — Hermigua (circular route, 3 hrs, moderate) — Through the densest laurel forest to the El Cedro stream and one of the few inns in the forest (Bar La Vista, stew from 8 €).
- Contadero — Alto de Garajonay (summit hike, 1.5 hrs, easy) — To the highest point of the island (1,487 m), panoramic view of all western islands.
- Raso de la Bruma (fog path, 2 hrs, easy) — Through the most atmospheric part of the forest, perfect for photos.
Visitor Center Juego de Bolas (near Agulo): free maps, exhibition on flora/fauna, garden with endemic plants. Mon–Sun 9:30–16:30.
★★ Valle Gran Rey
The hippie valley of La Gomera: In the 1970s, the first dropouts came, and the atmosphere has remained. Terraced palm valleys, black beaches, cheap guesthouses (from 35 €/night), vegetarian restaurants, and a relaxed community of long-term vacationers and digital nomads.
★★ Silbo Gomero — The Whistling Language
A UNESCO World Heritage Language: The Gomeros communicate across ravines using a sophisticated whistling language that translates Spanish vowels and consonants into whistle tones. Range up to 3 km! Compulsory subject in Gomera's schools since 1999. At Restaurant Las Rosas (near Agulo), there are daily demonstrations with lunch (18 €).
★ San Sebastián de la Gomera
The island capital (9,000 inhabitants) — here Columbus made his last stop on his voyages to the New World. The Iglesia de la Asunción (15th century) and the Casa de la Aguada (where Columbus fetched water) are reminders. The harbor area is nice for a coffee.