Pamplona★★
Pamplona (Iruña in Basque) is known worldwide for one thing: the Encierro, the running of the bulls during the Fiestas de San Fermín (July 6–14). For eight days, every morning at 8 am, six fighting bulls and six steers run through the old town — 875 m in about 3 minutes, followed by hundreds of daring runners in white with red neckerchiefs.
But Pamplona has much more to offer than San Fermín: The capital of Navarre (200,000 inhabitants) has one of the best-preserved city walls in Spain, a beautiful Gothic cathedral, excellent Pintxos bars, and is an important stop on the Camino de Santiago. The old town is compact, pedestrian-friendly, and authentic — locals live and work here, not just tourists.
Plan 1–2 days for Pamplona (except during San Fermín, then at least 2–3 days).
💡 Tipp
During San Fermín (July 6–14), hotel prices are 3–5 times higher than usual, and everything is booked months in advance. Many visitors stay in the surrounding areas (Olite, Estella, Puente la Reina) and take the bus in. The best alternative: Come on July 5 for the Chupinazo (opening at 12 noon at the town hall) or on the 14th for the closing with the emotional "Pobre de Mí" song at midnight.
Sights & San Fermín
★★★ Fiestas de San Fermín
The most famous folk festival in Spain (world-famous since Hemingway's "Fiesta" of 1926). Besides the Encierro: processions, giant figures (Gigantes y Cabezudos), fireworks, concerts, endless fiestas. The city transforms into a single open-air festival.
The Encierro (running of the bulls) can be seen for free from certain sections of the route (secure spots from 6 am!) or from balconies (150–300 € per person). Live broadcast on big screens at Plaza del Castillo. Running is legal but life-threatening — on average, 50–100 people are injured annually.
★★ Cathedral Santa María la Real
Gothic cathedral (14th–15th century) with the most beautiful Gothic cloister in Spain. In the diocesan museum, an excellent collection of Romanesque and Gothic art. The tomb of Charles III of Navarre (alabaster, 15th century) is a masterpiece.
7 € (with cloister and museum). Mon–Sat 10:30–17.
★★ City Walls & Citadel
Pamplona's city walls (3 km circular route) are among the best-preserved in Spain — star-shaped fortifications from the 16th/17th century. The Ciudadela (citadel) is now a park with art exhibitions and concerts. The walk on the walls is free and offers great views.
★ Plaza del Castillo
The central square of Pamplona with arcades, cafés, and Hemingway's favorite café Café Iruña (since 1888, Art Nouveau interior). Coffee from 2.50 €, Pintxos from 3 €. Hemingway preferred to sit in the corner to the right of the entrance.