Food & Practical Tips
Dining in Khiva
Khiva is smaller and more touristy than Bukhara—the restaurant selection is more limited, but there are some gems:
- Terrassa Café: On a rooftop terrace in the Ichan Kala with views over the old town. Uzbek and international cuisine. The best place for breakfast with a view.
- Khorezm Art Restaurant: In an old madrasa, traditional Khorezm cuisine. Try Shivit Osh—green noodles with dill herb, served with meat sauce. A Khiva specialty found nowhere else.
- Bir Gumbaz: Right at Kalta Minor. Tourist location, but good food and fantastic view of the minaret.
- Tea houses within the walls: Hidden chaikhanas in the alleys of the Ichan Kala. Ask locals—they'll gladly show you their favorite spots.
Khiva Specialties
- Shivit Osh: Green dill noodles with meat sauce—the signature specialty of Khiva and the Khorezm region.
- Tukhum Barak: Dumplings with egg filling, steamed and served with butter. Simple but delicious.
- Khorezm Plov: Lighter and less greasy than Tashkent plov, often with quince or peas.
Getting to Khiva
- From Bukhara: Shared taxi (6–7h, 8–12€), night train to Urgench (8–10h, 2–5€) or flight to Urgench (1h, from 25€).
- Urgench–Khiva: From Urgench train station/airport by taxi (30 min., 3–5€) or marshrutka (minibus, 0.30€).
- From Tashkent: Flight to Urgench (1.5h, from 35€)—the fastest option if you're short on time.
Accommodation
- Budget: Lali Opa Guesthouse, Meros B&B—family-run, within the walls, 10–15€/double room.
- Mid-range: Orient Star Khiva, Zarafshon Boutique Hotel—in restored old town houses, 25–50€/double room.
- Luxury: Hotel Khiva Palace, Asia Khiva—comfortable, 50–80€/double room.
How Much Time?
1 full day is enough for the highlights of the Ichan Kala. With 2 days, you have time for the Dishan Kala, sunset from the wall, and a trip to the desert fortress Ayaz-Kala (2h away, overnight stay in a yurt possible—a memorable experience!).
