Central Vietnam

Huế was the capital of unified Vietnam under the Nguyễn Dynasty from 1802 to 1945 — Vietnam's last imperial city, modeled after Beijing's Forbidden City. The citadel (Kinh Thành) is a massive, square complex with 10 km of walls, moats, and four monumental gates. Inside lies the Forbidden Purple City (Tử Cấm Thành), once accessible only to the emperor and his concubines.

The Vietnam War left deep scars: During the Tết Offensive 1968, Huế became a battlefield. The North Vietnamese Army occupied the city for 26 days, and the subsequent American bombings destroyed large parts of the citadel. Today, the restored areas are impressive — but the ruins around them remind of the destruction.

The Imperial Tombs

The imperial tombs (Lăng) of the Nguyễn Dynasty south of the city are among Vietnam's most beautiful structures:

• Tomb of Tự Đức: The most poetic — a landscaped garden with a lotus lake, pavilion, and the tomb of an emperor who had 104 wives but fathered no heir.
• Tomb of Khải Định: The most opulent — a mix of Vietnamese and European architecture with breathtaking mosaics made from ceramic shards and glass pieces.
• Tomb of Minh Mạng: The most harmonious — perfect symmetry, lakes, bridges, and ancient trees.

Huế Cuisine

Huế has Vietnam's most refined cuisine — once created for the imperial court, now affordable on the street:

• Bún Bò Huế: Vietnam's spiciest noodle soup — with beef, pork knuckle, and lemongrass-chili paste. Spicier and more complex than Phở.
• Bánh Bèo, Bánh Nậm, Bánh Lọc: Delicate rice flour snacks, steamed in small bowls. A whole table full of small works of art for 30,000 VND.
• Cơm Hến: Rice with tiny clams, herbs, and pork rind — a poor man's dish that became a cult.

The Hải Vân Pass (Đèo Hải Vân, "Pass of the Ocean Clouds") is Vietnam's most famous mountain pass — 21 km of switchbacks between Huế and Đà Nẵng, reaching up to 496 m in height. The British TV team of Top Gear called it "one of the most beautiful coastal passes in the world." They are right.

The pass marks the climatic boundary between North and South Vietnam: On the north side (Huế) it rains in winter, on the south side (Đà Nẵng) the sun shines. On clear days, you can see both the Lăng Cô Lagoon in the north and the Đà Nẵng coast in the south from the top — an unforgettable panorama.

Since 2005, a 6.3 km long tunnel runs under the pass — all heavy and bus traffic takes this route. This means: The old pass road is almost traffic-free and belongs to the motorcyclists. Riding over the pass by motorcycle (rentable in Huế or Đà Nẵng, from 150,000 VND/day) is one of the great Vietnam experiences.

At the highest point stand the ruins of a French fort and South Vietnamese bunkers — silent witnesses to the strategic importance of this pass over the centuries.

Đà Nẵng is Vietnam's fourth-largest city and the fastest-growing — a modern, clean coastal city that sees itself as a counterpoint to the chaos of Hanoi and HCMC. For travelers, Đà Nẵng is often just a transit point between Huế and Hội An, but the city deserves more attention.

Highlights

• Mỹ Khê Beach: One of Asia's most beautiful city beaches — 30 km of fine sand, turquoise water, surfing opportunities. In the morning, locals jog here, in the evening there's seafood right on the beach.
• Dragon Bridge: A 666-meter-long bridge in the shape of a dragon, which breathes fire and water on Saturdays and Sundays at 9 PM. A spectacle not to be missed.
• Marble Mountains (Ngũ Hành Sơn): Five marble-limestone hills with caves, pagodas, and viewpoints. The main cave (Huyền Không) is a natural cathedral with light streaming through the ceiling. Entrance: 40,000 VND (1.50 €).
• Bà Nà Hills & Golden Bridge: The famous Instagram spot: A bridge held by two giant stone hands. The amusement park at 1,400 m altitude is touristy, but the cable car (one of the longest in the world) and the view are impressive. Entrance: 900,000 VND (33 €).

Hội An is Vietnam's most charming city — and unfortunately, everyone else knows it too. The UNESCO-protected old town is a perfectly preserved trading town from the 15th–19th centuries: Chinese merchant houses, Japanese bridges, French colonial houses, and Vietnamese temples line both banks of the Thu Bồn River. And in the evenings, when hundreds of colorful lanterns illuminate the streets, Hội An becomes magical.

The Old Town

The old town is car-free (bicycles and pedestrians). An old town ticket (120,000 VND / 4.44 €) grants entry to five of 22 historical sites — including:

• Japanese Bridge (Chùa Cầu): The symbol of Hội An, built by Japanese merchants in the 17th century. Monkey on the south side, dog on the north side — the bridge was started in the year of the monkey and completed in the year of the dog.
• Phúc Kiến Assembly Hall: The most magnificent of the Chinese assembly halls — with gold-adorned altars, incense spirals, and a garden.
• Tân Ký Old House: A 200-year-old merchant house with Japanese, Chinese, and Vietnamese influences — and still inhabited.

Tailors — Custom Clothing Overnight

Hội An is Vietnam's tailor capital: Over 400 tailor shops create custom suits, dresses, and coats — often within 24 hours. A custom suit costs 2,000,000–5,000,000 VND (74–185 €), a dress from 800,000 VND (30 €). Quality varies greatly — it's best to get recommendations from other travelers.

Lanterns & Full Moon Night

On the 14th day of each lunar month, Hội An celebrates the lantern festival: Electric lighting is turned off, candles and lanterns illuminate the city, paper lanterns float on the river, and traditional music plays. The most atmospheric experience in Vietnam.

Cao Lầu — Hội An's Secret

Cao Lầu (40,000–60,000 VND) is a noodle dish that is only found in Hội An. The rice noodles are supposedly made with water from a special well and ash from the Cham Islands — giving them their unique, chewy texture. Served with pork, herbs, and crispy croutons. Try it at Cao Lầu Không Gian Xanh or Bà Bé.

Mỹ Sơn is Vietnam's answer to Angkor Wat — though much smaller and more heavily damaged. The Cham temple ruins are located in a remote valley, surrounded by dense jungle, and were the spiritual center of the Champa Kingdom from the 4th to the 14th century.

The complex includes over 70 temple structures, built from fired bricks without mortar — how the Cham achieved this remains a mystery to this day. Most buildings feature Hindu motifs (Shiva, Vishnu), although the region later converted to Islam. The American bombings during the Vietnam War destroyed many of the best-preserved temples — bomb craters are still visible.

Despite the destruction, Mỹ Sơn has a special atmosphere: The red brick towers, the jungle, the silence. In the morning, before the tourist buses from Hội An arrive (from 9:30), you almost have the place to yourself.

The Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park (UNESCO World Heritage) is home to the largest and most spectacular caves in the world — including the Sơn Đoòng, so large that a 40-story building could fit inside. The region is Vietnam's best-kept secret and a paradise for adventurers.

The Caves

• Paradise Cave (Thiên Đường): The queen accessible to all — 31 km long, with stalactites and stalagmites standing like organ pipes in a cathedral. The first 1.5 km are walkable on a wooden walkway. Entrance: 250,000 VND (9.25 €). Absolutely breathtaking!
• Phong Nha Cave: Navigable by boat — a 30-minute boat ride through an underground river with illuminated chambers. Atmospheric. 150,000 VND (5.55 €) + boat.
• Dark Cave (Hang Tối): Pure adventure: Zipline over the river, swim through darkness, mud bath in the cave. Perfect for adrenaline junkies. 450,000 VND (16.70 €).
• Sơn Đoòng: The largest cave in the world (9 km long, 200 m high, 150 m wide). Accessible only via a 4-day expedition, limited to 1,000 visitors per year. Price: ~70,000,000 VND (2,600 €). Booked months in advance. A once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Beyond the Caves

The region also offers trekking, kayaking on the Sơn River, and motorcycle tours through the national park. The small town of Phong Nha is relaxed and has a surprisingly good backpacker scene with nice hostels and restaurants.

The Thiên Mụ Pagoda (Heavenly Lady) is Huế's landmark — a seven-story tower on a hill above the Perfume River. Founded in 1601, it is the oldest pagoda in the city and an active Buddhist monastery.

The pagoda became famous through a tragic photo: In 1963, the monk Thích Quảng Đức drove to Saigon in the Austin car displayed here and publicly immolated himself — in protest against the oppression of Buddhists by the Diệm regime. The photo went around the world and changed the course of the Vietnam War.

The pagoda is beautifully situated: The view over the meandering Perfume River is peaceful and timeless. The gardens are well-maintained, and the soft clicking of the monks' prayer beads accompanies the visit. Free admission.