Buenos Aires
Discovering Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires — affectionately called "BA" or the "Reina del Plata" (Queen of the Silver River) by its residents — is one of the most exciting metropolises in South America. The 15-million megacity on the Río de la Plata feels like Paris and Rome, spiced with Latin American temperament: wide boulevards with Art Nouveau facades, winding cobblestone alleys with tango music from open windows, steakhouses with smoking grills, and cafés where time has stood still.
The Porteños — as the residents of Buenos Aires call themselves (from "Puerto," port) — are known for their passion, their pride, and their habit of doing everything late: Dinner starts at 10 PM, nightlife at 2 AM, and on Sundays, the whole city sleeps until noon. Buenos Aires lives in its own rhythm — and those who embrace it will never forget this city.
What many don't know: Buenos Aires has more bookstores per capita than any other city in the world, is a UNESCO City of Design, and boasts one of the best acoustic opera houses on the planet with the Teatro Colón. The street art scene is world-famous, the café culture legendary (the "Cafés Notables" are protected as historical landmarks!), and the density of psychoanalysts per capita is the highest worldwide — Porteños love to talk about themselves.
Orientation — The Barrios of Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires consists of 48 official Barrios (neighborhoods), about a dozen of which are relevant to travelers. Each has its own character — almost like independent villages within the megacity:
San Telmo — The Soulful Neighborhood
Buenos Aires' oldest preserved neighborhood and birthplace of the Tango. Cobblestones, crumbling colonial facades, antique shops, Milongas, and the legendary Sunday market. Here lives the spirit of old Buenos Aires — bohemian, a little run-down, but full of atmosphere. In the 19th century, the upper class lived here until a yellow fever epidemic in 1871 drove them north (to Recoleta). The abandoned mansions became tenements (Conventillos) for immigrants — and here, in the closeness and loneliness, the Tango was born.
La Boca — The Colorful Neighborhood
The working-class neighborhood on the Riachuelo River, known for the colorful corrugated iron houses of Caminito and the stadium La Bombonera. Touristy, photogenic, but only safe in the Caminito/Estadio area. The colorful houses originate from the Genoese immigrants who used leftover ship paint — each facade in a different color.
Recoleta — The Elegant Neighborhood
Argentina's "Parisian Quarter": Art Nouveau palaces, the most famous cemetery in the world (with Evita's grave), museums, embassies, and expensive boutiques. Here lives the upper class — old families whose ancestors fled from San Telmo due to yellow fever. Avenida Alvear is Buenos Aires' most elegant street.
Palermo — The Largest and Trendiest
Buenos Aires' largest Barrio, unofficially divided into several "Sub-Barrios":
- Palermo Soho: Cobblestones, designer boutiques, concept stores, the best cafes in the city, art galleries, and Plaza Serrano (officially Plaza Cortázar) as the epicenter. Shop, brunch, and stroll here.
- Palermo Hollywood: Named after the TV production studios. Less pretty than Soho, but the best gastronomy and wildest nightlife in the city. Craft beer bars, speakeasy cocktail bars, restaurants of every cuisine in the world.
- Palermo Chico: The noble corner with embassies and the MALBA museum.
- Palermo Viejo: The historic core, seamlessly blending into Soho and Hollywood.
- Las Cañitas: A small, chic neighborhood next to the polo field with elegant restaurants and wine bars.
Puerto Madero — The Modern
The former port, transformed into the most modern neighborhood in the 1990s: renovated brick warehouses, skyscrapers, the Puente de la Mujer by Santiago Calatrava, waterfront restaurants, and the surprising Reserva Ecológica. Safe, clean, but less authentic — more businesspeople than tango dancers stroll here.
Microcentro / San Nicolás — The Business Center
The Avenida 9 de Julio (widest street in the world, 140 meters!), the Obelisco, the shopping street Florida, the Teatro Colón, and Avenida Corrientes with its theaters and cinemas. Busy during the day, empty at night. Here stands the Obelisco — Buenos Aires' landmark from 1936, 67 meters high, at the intersection of 9 de Julio and Corrientes.
Mataderos — The Hidden
Located on the western outskirts of the city, far from the tourist paths. Every Sunday, the Feria de Mataderos takes place here — a huge Gaucho market with folklore dances, equestrian shows, traditional food, and handicrafts. The most authentic Buenos Aires experience off the usual routes. Arrival: Colectivo 55, 92, or 126 from Microcentro (approx. 45 min).
Tipp
Palermo Soho is the best base for your BA stay: central, safe, huge restaurant selection, great nightlife, and good connection via Subte (Line D). San Telmo is more atmospheric and cheaper, but a bit rougher at night — ideal for solo travelers and backpackers looking for the "real" BA.
San Telmo — The Tango District★★★
★★★ San Telmo — The Heart of Tango
San Telmo is Buenos Aires' oldest and most atmospheric neighborhood: cobblestone streets, crumbling colonial facades, antique shops, and the sound of bandoneón music drifting from the milongas. In the 19th century, the upper class lived here — magnificent mansions with courtyards and rooftop terraces. Then came the yellow fever epidemic of 1871, which killed 14,000 people. The wealthy fled north (Recoleta, Barrio Norte), and their abandoned palaces became conventillos — overcrowded tenements for waves of European immigrants. Here, in the closeness, poverty, and loneliness of these conventillos, where Italians, Spaniards, and Afro-Argentines met, the tango was born.
Today, San Telmo is a fascinating mix of bohemian and gentrification: next to the old antique shops, hip cafés open, next to the traditional milongas, craft beer bars emerge. But the charm remains: Walking down Defensa Street, past open doors from which tango music plays, while a couple dances on the sidewalk — that's Buenos Aires in its purest form.
Mercado de San Telmo
★★★ Mercado de San Telmo — The Market Hall
The historic market hall from 1897 is an architectural gem: A delicate wrought-iron construction (in the style of Gustave Eiffel, designed by Juan Antonio Buschiazzo) spans an entire city block. Over 100 stalls offer everything the culinary heart desires:
- Meat: Whole sides of beef hang on the hooks of the Carnicerías — here you see the cuts that end up in the Parrillas in the evening
- Empanadas: Several stalls, the best at "El Panadero de San Telmo" (try the Empanada de Carne with Aceitunas)
- Cheese and Sausage: Provoleta, Salami, Bondiola — pure Italian heritage
- Coffee Town: The best coffee in the neighborhood, roasted before your eyes
- Dulce de Leche: Homemade, in various varieties — to taste and take away
- Wine: Small wine shops with Malbec advice
- Antiques: In the upper area of the hall, you will find stalls with vintage clothes, old records, and curiosities
The Mercado is both a food market for locals and a culinary experience for visitors — at the counters, Porteños sit next to travelers, all eating the same sensational empanadas. Lunch here is one of the cheapest and best experiences in Buenos Aires.
Defensa 961. Mo–Sa 7:00–19:00, Sun until 16:00. Much busier on Sundays due to the street market. Tip: Come on weekdays for a relaxed lunch among locals.
La Boca — Caminito & La Bombonera
★★ La Boca — The Colorful Working-Class Neighborhood
La Boca, located on the banks of the polluted Riachuelo River, is Buenos Aires' most famous and controversial neighborhood. The colorful corrugated iron houses of the Caminito are seen on every postcard — but La Boca is also one of the poorest and most dangerous barrios in the city. The reality is more complex than the colorful facades suggest.
Caminito — The Open-Air Gallery
★★ Caminito — Beautiful, Colorful, and Touristy
The Caminito is a 150-meter short pedestrian street that was transformed into an open-air gallery in 1959 on the initiative of painter Benito Quinquela Martín — La Boca's most famous son. The colorful corrugated iron houses (conventillos) with their typical balconies were restored and painted. Today, the Caminito is a permanent art exhibition in the open air: paintings, sculptures, tango dancers in costumes posing for tips, and souvenir stands.
The truth: The Caminito is touristy, overpriced, and — to be honest — a bit kitschy. The restaurants in the immediate area are the worst and most expensive in all of Buenos Aires (avoidance recommended!). Nevertheless: The photo opportunities are undeniably beautiful, the history behind it fascinating, and a short visit (30–60 Min.) is worthwhile — if you know what to expect.
Free entry, accessible at any time. Best visited in the morning (10 AM–1 PM) when the light is good and it's not too crowded.
Achtung
La Boca is ONLY safe in the Caminito area and directly around the Estadio La Bombonera! NEVER leave this area on foot, not even for a "short detour" into the side streets. No visits after dark! Unfortunately, robbery and assaults are real in the surrounding blocks. Arrive by taxi or Colectivo (Bus 29, 64, or 152) and leave La Boca the same way.
La Bombonera — The Chocolate Box Shakes
★★★ La Bombonera (Estadio Alberto J. Armando)
The legendary stadium of the Boca Juniors — one of the most famous and passionate football clubs in the world. The name "La Bombonera" (chocolate box) comes from its characteristic rectangular shape. The stadium holds only 54,000 spectators, but the acoustics and atmosphere are unique: The steep stands (the "Populares") are on concrete stilts, and when 50,000 fans jump and sing simultaneously, the entire stadium literally shakes — the ground moves measurably underfoot!
Experience a game:
- Tickets: Only purchase through the official Boca Juniors website! Tickets for the "Platea" (seating) start at about 15,000 ARS. The "Popular" (standing) is cheaper but more chaotic
- Superclásico (Boca vs. River Plate): The hottest derby in South America. Tickets are extremely hard to get and only for Socios (members). Possible through tour agencies, but expensive (80–200 USD)
- Safety: DO NOT wear opposing colors! Guest fans are not allowed at home games. Do not flaunt expensive equipment. Use a taxi to/from the stadium
Museum & Tour: Worth seeing even without a game! The stadium tour takes you through the locker rooms, player tunnel, and onto the stands. The museum showcases the club's history, Maradona memorabilia, Copa Libertadores trophies, and footage of legendary games.
Brandsen 805, La Boca. Museum & Stadium Tour: daily 10:00–18:00, approx. 3,000 ARS (approx. 3€). Game tickets: from 15,000 ARS via bfranchise.bocajuniors.com.ar
Recoleta — Cemetery, Museums & Elegance
★★★ Recoleta — The Elegant Buenos Aires
Recoleta is Buenos Aires' most noble district — the Argentine equivalent of Paris' 16th arrondissement. Art Nouveau palaces, French gardens, embassies with wrought-iron fences, and the city's most elegant shopping street (Avenida Alvear) shape the image. Here lives Argentina's old aristocracy — the families who fled from San Telmo during the yellow fever epidemic in the 19th century and built their new palaces modeled after Paris.
Cementerio de la Recoleta — The Most Fascinating Cemetery in the World
★★★ Cementerio de la Recoleta
The Cementerio de la Recoleta is not just a cemetery — it is an open-air museum of architecture, history, and human vanity. On 5.5 hectares stand 4,691 above-ground mausoleums in straight alleys — a labyrinth of marble, granite, bronze, and stained glass. The graves are miniature palaces: Greek temples, Gothic chapels, Art Deco towers, Egyptian pyramids. Some cost more than a house.
The most famous graves:
- Eva "Evita" Perón (1919–1952): The most visited grave in the cemetery — and the simplest among the famous. In the Duarte family mausoleum (Evita's maiden name), alley 15, often adorned with fresh flowers and handwritten letters. The story of her corpse is its own saga: After her death, the embalmed body was moved around the world for 16 years — from Buenos Aires to Milan, then to Madrid — to prevent the Peronists from using it as a political symbol. She only returned to Argentina in 1974. Her mausoleum has a bomb-proof underground vault — so no one can ever steal her body again.
- Domingo Faustino Sarmiento (1811–1888): Argentina's most famous president, educator, and writer. His monumental grave is one of the largest.
- Raúl Alfonsín (1927–2009): The president who restored democracy after the military dictatorship in 1983.
- Adolfo Bioy Casares (1914–1999): Author and best friend of Jorge Luis Borges.
- Luis Federico Leloir (1906–1987): Nobel Prize winner in Chemistry (1970).
- Rufina Cambaceres (1883–1902): The most tragic grave — the young woman was allegedly buried alive (apparent death). The bronze statue shows her trying to push open the door of her mausoleum. A ghost story, the truth is disputed, but the legend lives on.
Junín 1760, Recoleta. Daily 8:00–17:30 (last entry 17:00). Free entry! Free guided tours in English: Tue and Thu at 11:00 (meet at the main entrance). In Spanish also Sat 14:00. Duration approx. 1.5h. A map of the cemetery is available at the entrance — without it, finding Evita's grave is difficult (there is no signage).
Museums & Attractions in Recoleta
★★ Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Argentina's most important art museum and one of the best in Latin America: The collection includes 12,000 works by Goya, El Greco, Rembrandt, Monet, Renoir, Degas, and Rodin. The Argentine wing showcases masterpieces by Prilidiano Pueyrredón, Eduardo Sívori, and Xul Solar. The collection of Latin American art is outstanding. And the best part: Admission is free.
Av. del Libertador 1473. Tue–Fri 11:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–20:00. Closed on Mondays. Free entry!
★★ MALBA — Museo de Arte Latinoamericano
The city's most modern art museum, dedicated to 20th and 21st-century Latin American art. Works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Tarsila do Amaral, Antonio Berni, and Xul Solar. Temporary exhibitions are often world-class. The café on the ground floor is a meeting point for the creative scene.
Av. Pres. Figueroa Alcorta 3415. Thu 11:00–20:00 (Wednesday free entry!), Fri–Mon 12:00–20:00. Approx. 3,000 ARS.
★★★ Basilica Nuestra Señora del Pilar
The snow-white colonial church (1732) next to the cemetery is one of the oldest churches in Buenos Aires. The cloister and the monastery garden offer a moment of peace amid the hustle and bustle. The panorama from the church square over the cemetery and parks is beautiful.
★★ Feria de Recoleta (Weekend Market)
Every Saturday and Sunday, an artisan market takes place on the Plaza Francia in front of the Basilica — smaller and less hectic than the San Telmo market, but with high-quality crafts: silver jewelry, leather goods, ceramics, mate cups. The atmosphere is relaxed — Porteños sit on the grass, drink mate, and listen to street musicians.
Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada & Microcentro
★★★ Plaza de Mayo — The Political Heart
The Plaza de Mayo is the square where Argentina's history was written — and is still being written. Here, the nation proclaimed its independence in 1810, here Evita gave her legendary speeches from the balcony of the Casa Rosada, here the Madres de Plaza de Mayo marched in circles every Thursday for decades to remember their children "disappeared" during the military dictatorship — and they still do, every Thursday at 3:30 PM. White headscarves on the square are a permanent reminder of the Desaparecidos.
★★★ Casa Rosada (Pink Presidential Palace)
The pink presidential building at the eastern end of the Plaza de Mayo is one of the most famous structures in South America. From its balcony, Eva Perón gave her legendary speeches to the "Descamisados" (shirtless ones), here Maradona and Messi waved after World Cup titles, and here the people demonstrate when they are angry — which happens regularly in Argentina.
Why pink? The most common theory: President Sarmiento had the palace painted pink in 1873 to unite the colors of the two political camps — red (federalists) and white (unitarians). Less romantic but more likely: The color resulted from mixing lime with oxblood, a common building material at the time.
The building can be visited for free on weekends: The tour (approx. 1h) shows the presidential office hall, the Cristina Kirchner hall, and the famous balcony. In the basement: the Museo del Bicentenario with excavations of the colonial fortress and a massive mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros (the Mexican muralist).
Balcarce 50. Tours: Sat–Sun, every 15 Min., 10:00 AM–6:00 PM. Free, pre-registration on visitas.casarosada.gob.ar (bring passport!).
★★ Catedral Metropolitana
The cathedral on the north side of the Plaza de Mayo looks more like a Greek temple from the outside (12 Corinthian columns) than a church. Inside: the tomb of General José de San Martín (Argentina's national hero and liberator), guarded by an eternal flame and two grenadiers in historical uniform. And: Here preached Jorge Mario Bergoglio — better known as Pope Francis — before he was elected head of the Catholic Church in 2013. His cardinal coat of arms hangs in a side chapel.
★★★ Teatro Colón
One of the best opera houses in the world — its acoustics are ranked by experts alongside La Scala in Milan and the Vienna State Opera. The magnificent building from 1908 (Italian Renaissance style, 18 years of construction, three architects) offers 2,478 seats and standing room for another 1,000. Seven tiers, a golden dome with frescoes, Italian Carrara marble, French stained glass windows, and Venetian mosaics.
Cerrito 628. Tours: daily 9:00 AM–5:00 PM, every 15 Min. Approx. 5,000 ARS (approx. 5€). Performances: from 3,000 ARS — opera, ballet, and concerts at world-class level for a fraction of European prices. Book online: teatrocolon.org.ar
★★ Avenida 9 de Julio & Obelisco
The widest street in the world — 140 meters from building front to building front, with up to 20 lanes. In the middle stands the Obelisco (67 m, 1936), Buenos Aires' unmistakable landmark. At the intersection with Avenida Corrientes is the heart of the city: theaters, cinemas, pizzerias, and neon lighting reminiscent of Times Square.
★★ El Ateneo Grand Splendid
The most beautiful bookstore in the world (as chosen by The Guardian): A former theater from 1919, completely converted into a bookstore — but with preserved ceiling paintings, theater boxes (now reading corners), and the stage (now a café). Even if you don't buy a book: Go in, marvel, have coffee on the stage.
Av. Santa Fe 1860, Barrio Norte/Recoleta. Mon–Sat 9:00 AM–10:00 PM, Sun 12:00 PM–10:00 PM. Free entry.
Palermo — Soho, Hollywood & Street Art
★★★ Palermo — The Trendiest Neighborhood in South America
Palermo is Buenos Aires' largest and most diverse barrio — and the one where most travelers feel most comfortable. The combination of safe streets, sensational gastronomy, fantastic nightlife, top-notch street art, and relaxed atmosphere makes it the ideal base.
Palermo Soho — Boutiques, Cafés & Plaza Serrano
★★★ Palermo Soho
The epicenter of modern Buenos Aires: Cobblestone streets lined with independent designer boutiques, concept stores, vintage shops, art galleries, and the best cafes in the city. The Plaza Serrano (officially Plaza Julio Cortázar, named after the author) is the heart — a relaxed square with street artists and a weekend market (handicrafts) during the day, the surrounding bar terraces fill up in the evening.
Shopping Tips Palermo Soho:
- Calle Armenia: The designer mile — Argentine fashion design, leather goods, shoes
- Calle Gurruchaga: Vintage shops, second-hand fashion, record stores
- Calle Thames: Concept stores, handicrafts, independent bookstores
- Mercado de Pulgas (Flea Market): On Calle Dorrego — vintage furniture, old industrial lamps, retro curiosities
Café Culture: Buenos Aires has one of the richest café cultures in the world — the historic "Cafés Notables" (including Café Tortoni, Bar El Federal, La Poesía) are under monument protection. In Palermo Soho, you'll find the modern generation: LAB Tostadores, Cuervo Café, Lattente, and the legendary Birkin Bar (coffee during the day, cocktails in the evening).
Palermo Hollywood — Food, Bars & Nightlife
★★★ Palermo Hollywood
North of the railway tracks begins Palermo Hollywood — rougher, less pretty than Soho, but with the highest density of top-notch restaurants, bars, and clubs in all of Buenos Aires. The name comes from the many TV and film production studios in the area.
Why Hollywood instead of Soho?
- The city's most innovative restaurants: Peruvian-Japanese fusion (Nikkei), closed-door restaurants (Puertas Cerradas), pop-up kitchens
- The best cocktail scene: Speakeasy bars behind hidden doors, rooftop bars, mezcalerias
- The nightlife: Clubs like Niceto (Indie/Electronic, Wednesdays the legendary "Zizek" party), Club Araoz (House/Techno), and dozens of live music venues
- Craft Beer: Buenos Aires has a flourishing craft beer scene — Strange Brewing, Cervecería Berlina, Antares, and On Tap are the hotspots
Street Art in Palermo
★★★ Buenos Aires' Street-Art Scene
Buenos Aires is one of the Top 5 cities for street art worldwide — alongside Berlin, London, São Paulo, and Melbourne. What makes Buenos Aires special: Street art is legal, promoted, and respected here. The city administration funds muralism projects, property owners commission artists, and the scene is so lively that new works are constantly emerging (and old ones are being covered).
The best spots for street art:
- Palermo Soho/Hollywood: The area around Thames, Armenia, and Gurruchaga is an open-air gallery. Every block has at least one impressive mural
- Colegiales: North of Palermo Hollywood, less known but with some of the largest and best murals in the city
- La Boca: Not just Caminito — in the side streets (with a guide!) there are raw, political murals
- Barracas: South of San Telmo, the emerging artist district. Calle Lanín is completely covered with mosaics by Marino Santa María — each house is a work of art
Famous artists:
- Martín Ron: Hyper-realistic giant portraits — his works look like photographs but are entirely hand-painted. Several stories high
- Pastel (Federico Ruiz): Geometric figures in pastel colors, often with bird motifs
- Jaz (Franco Fasoli): Masks and battle scenes — powerful and dynamic
- Elian Chali: Abstract geometry in bold colors
- Chu (Charquipunk): Psychedelic worlds with Andean elements
Street-Art Tours: The best way to experience the murals is with a guided tour — the guides know the backstories, know where the latest works are, and also lead to neighborhoods you wouldn't find on your own. Duration: 3–4h, from 15–25€. Graffitimundo is the most well-known provider — the guides are often artists themselves.
Puerto Madero, Tigre Delta & Mataderos
★★ Puerto Madero — The Modern Port
Argentina's youngest and chicest neighborhood: The disused port was redeveloped into a prestige project in the 1990s. The red brick warehouses (Docks 1–4) now house restaurants, lofts, and offices, alongside skyscrapers rising into the sky. The Puente de la Mujer (Women's Bridge) by Santiago Calatrava is the landmark — a 170-meter-long swing bridge that looks like a stylized tango dancer.
Worth seeing: The Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur — a 350-hectare nature reserve right on the Río de la Plata, just minutes from the city center. Created on reclaimed land, nature has reclaimed it: wetlands, lagoons, 300+ bird species, otters, and an astonishing silence in the middle of the megacity. Ideal for jogging, cycling, or birdwatching.
Reserva Ecológica: Tue–Sun 8:00 AM–6:00 PM (summer until 7:00 PM). Free entry. Entrance at Av. Tristán Achával Rodríguez.
Day Trip: Tigre & the Paraná Delta
★★★ Tigre & the Paraná Delta — The Green Lung
Only 30 km north of Buenos Aires begins another world: The Paraná Delta — a vast river delta with countless wooded islands, canals, and waterways where boats replace buses. The small town of Tigre at the entrance to the delta is the perfect day trip from Buenos Aires — or a worthwhile overnight stop for those wanting to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.
What you can do in Tigre:
- Boat trip through the Delta (2–4h): The classic experience. The "Lanchas Colectivas" (public boats) depart regularly from Estación Fluvial and take you through the canals, past wooden houses on stilts, floating supermarkets, and lush vegetation. Alternatively: Private boat tours or canoe/kayak rentals. From approx. 3,000–8,000 ARS
- Puerto de Frutos (Fruit Market): A huge market with furniture made from delta wood, wickerwork, handicrafts, plants, and delicious food. Especially lively on weekends
- Museo de Arte Tigre (MAT): A beautiful Belle Époque-style palace on the banks of the Río Luján, with a fine collection of Argentine art
- Kayaking & Rowing: On the calm canals of the delta — a contemplative experience
Getting there: From Retiro station in Buenos Aires with the Tren de la Costa (the coastal train — scenic, via Olivos and San Isidro) or the Tren Mitre (faster, directly from Retiro to Tigre, 45 min., approx. 0.20€ with SUBE card). Alternatively: Colectivo 60 from Constitución.
Tipp
The most romantic way to Tigre: Take the Tren de la Costa (it travels through the elegant suburbs along the Río de la Plata), head to an island in the Delta by boat, have lunch there, and paddle back by canoe. Perfect Sunday!
Feria de Mataderos — The Authentic Buenos Aires
★★ Feria de Mataderos — The Gaucho Market
If the Sunday market in San Telmo is the Buenos Aires of tourists, then the Feria de Mataderos is the Buenos Aires of Argentines. On the western outskirts, next to the old slaughterhouses (Mataderos = slaughterhouses), a huge folklore market takes place every Sunday, almost exclusively visited by locals.
- Gaucho Equestrian Shows: Jineteada (rodeo riding), Carreras de sortija (ring spearing from horseback), Doma — the riders come from the provinces
- Folklore Dances: Zamba, Chacarera, Gato — danced by couples in traditional clothing, accompanied by live music with guitar and Bombo (drum)
- Food: Here you find Asado over an open fire, Locro (corn stew), Empanadas Salteñas, Humitas (corn dumplings), Pastelitos (sweet pastries) — all fresh and sensationally cheap
- Handicrafts: Silver jewelry, gaucho belts, leather goods, mate cups, ponchos — authentic and significantly cheaper than in San Telmo
Lisandro de la Torre 2535, Mataderos. Sunday 11:00–19:00 (April–Dec), Saturday 18:00–01:00 (Jan–March, in summer evenings). Getting there: Colectivo 55, 92, or 126 from Microcentro (approx. 40–50 min).
Walking Tour 1: Plaza de Mayo → San Telmo → La Boca
This day tour takes you through the historical axis of Buenos Aires — from the political heart through the atmospheric tango district to the colorful working-class neighborhood. About 6–8 hours with breaks, approx. 7 km on foot.
Stop 1: Plaza de Mayo & Casa Rosada (9:00 AM)
Start at the political heart of Argentina. Admire the pink Casa Rosada, visit the cathedral (where Pope Francis preached and San Martín's tomb lies) and the Cabildo (Revolution Museum). If Thursday: The Madres de Plaza de Mayo march at 3:30 PM — a moving moment. The white headscarf symbols on the pavement of the Plaza are a permanent reminder.
Stop 2: Avenida de Mayo (9:45 AM)
Stroll along the magnificent Avenida de Mayo — one of the most beautiful streets in South America. Art Nouveau palaces, Art Nouveau domes, the historic Café Tortoni (No. 825, since 1858, the oldest café in the city — the queue is long, but it's worth it: order a Café con Leche and a Medialuna and enjoy the interior with marble tables, wood paneling, and the spirit of Borges, who was a regular here). At the end of the Avenida: the imposing Congreso building (Argentina's parliament, modeled after the US Capitol).
Stop 3: San Telmo (10:30 AM)
Turn south into Calle Defensa. Browse the antique shops (open on weekdays too), explore the Mercado de San Telmo for an early lunch (empanadas and coffee at the counter). At Plaza Dorrego, locals sit in cafés under the plane trees — on Sundays, tango couples dance here, on weekdays it's quieter and more intimate.
Stop 4: Parque Lezama (12:00 PM)
The park at the border between San Telmo and La Boca. Here, Pedro de Mendoza is said to have founded Buenos Aires in 1536 (a monument commemorates this). The Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa (Russian Orthodox Church) with its blue onion domes is a surprising sight. The park itself is quiet during the week — full of families on weekends.
Stop 5: La Boca & Caminito (12:30 PM)
Continue to La Boca to the colorful Caminito. Take photos, watch the tango-posing dancers at work (tips expected, approx. 500–1,000 ARS per photo). Don't buy food here! (overpriced and bad). Optional: Museo Benito Quinquela Martín (above the Caminito, great harbor scene paintings, 2€ entry) and/or La Bombonera (museum + stadium tour, worth seeing even without a game).
Stop 6: Return via Puerto Madero (2:30 PM)
By taxi or colectivo (bus 29 or 152) to Puerto Madero. Walk over the Puente de la Mujer, past the Reserva Ecológica. Sunset drink in one of the restaurants at the docks, then dinner in Palermo (taxi, approx. 3,000 ARS).
Tipp
This tour works best on a Sunday: Then you can experience the legendary Sunday market in San Telmo. Start early (before 10 AM) to see the Casa Rosada before the crowds. On weekdays, the tour is more relaxed — and San Telmo shows its quieter, more authentic face.
Walking Tour 2: Palermo Street Art & Cafés
Half a day through Palermo Soho and Hollywood — a mix of street art, boutiques, coffee breaks, and culinary discoveries. Approx. 4–5 hours, 4 km.
Stop 1: Plaza Serrano / Plaza Cortázar (10:00 AM)
Start at Plaza Serrano in the heart of Palermo Soho. On weekends, there's a small craft market here, on weekdays it's quieter. Begin with a Café con Leche in one of the surrounding cafés (Cuervo Café or LAB Tostadores are excellent). Look around — the first murals on the house facades start here.
Stop 2: Calle Armenia (10:30 AM)
The design mile heading north: Argentine fashion brands (Rapsodia, María Cher, costumes), independent designer boutiques, vintage shops. Between the shops: huge murals on the house walls — keep your eyes open!
Stop 3: Thames & Gurruchaga (11:00 AM)
The street art stronghold: At the corner of Thames/El Salvador, you'll find some of the best murals in the city. Walk the Thames Street north — every block has at least one impressive work. Pay attention to the details: Many murals have political messages (Desaparecidos, environment, feminism) or play with the building itself (3D effects interacting with windows and doors).
Stop 4: Palermo Hollywood Gastro Mile (12:00 PM)
Cross the railway tracks to Palermo Hollywood. The area around Honduras, Fitz Roy, and Bonpland is the gastronomic stronghold: restaurant after restaurant. Perfect time for a brunch or early lunch — Buenos Aires loves brunch, especially on weekends.
Stop 5: Bosques de Palermo (1:30 PM)
Continue to the Bosques de Palermo — the green lung of the city. The Rosedal (Rose Garden) with 18,000 rose bushes is an oasis of peace. The Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden, entry approx. 2,000 ARS) with a bridge, koi pond, and teahouse is Buenos Aires' most peaceful place. The Planetario Galileo Galilei (the futuristic dome building) is a landmark of Palermo.
Stop 6: Café Break & Shopping (3:00 PM)
Back to Palermo Soho for a merienda (afternoon tea): Medialunas and Café con Leche — the Argentine ritual at 5 PM. Then: last round of shopping or aperitivo on one of the bar terraces around Plaza Serrano.
Food & Drink — The Best Restaurants
Buenos Aires is one of the most exciting gastro cities in the world — and thanks to the Blue Dollar, outrageously cheap by European standards. A dinner that would cost €80 in Berlin or Munich is available here for €20–30. Here are the restaurants you need to know:
Parrillas — Argentina's Sacred Steakhouses
★★★ The Parrilla — Temple of Meat
A visit to Buenos Aires without a steak in a parrilla is like Rome without pasta. The art of Argentine grilling is fundamentally different: low heat, long cooking time, only salt. No marinade, no seasoning — the meat speaks for itself. Here are the best:
★★★ Don Julio — The No. 1
Guatemala 4691, Palermo. Regularly among the Top 50 Restaurants in the World (2023: 14th place in the "World's 50 Best Restaurants"). Owner Pablo Rivero breeds his own cattle in the Buenos Aires province — the meat quality is unparalleled. The wine list is one of the best in the country (over 400 positions). What to order: Bife de Chorizo (a punto!), Entraña, Provoleta as a starter, with a Malbec from the Reserva list. Dessert: Panqueque con Dulce de Leche.
Prices: Steak 8,000–15,000 ARS (approx. 8–15€). Reservation ESSENTIAL — at least 2–3 weeks in advance! Without reservation: Come at 7:30 PM (the line starts at 8 PM, but Argentinians eat only from 9 PM — you have a head start).
★★★ La Cabrera — The People's Favorite
Cabrera 5099, Palermo. The huge portions are legendary: A whole tray of sides comes with the steak — baked potatoes, grilled peppers, pumpkin puree, ratatouille, and more. The atmosphere is lively, the wine selection excellent. What to order: Ojo de Bife (Rib-Eye, 500g!), with the house Malbec Reserva. Come hungry.
Prices: Steak 7,000–12,000 ARS (approx. 7–12€). Waiting time often 30–60 Min. (but there's Malbec and Provoleta at the bar). Reservation recommended. Two branches next to each other — both equally good.
★★★ La Brigada — The Football Steakhouse
Estados Unidos 465, San Telmo. The walls are covered with football memorabilia — signed jerseys, photos, balls. But the true fame lies in the meat: The waiter cuts the steak with a spoon at the table — that's how tender it is. What to order: Bife de Lomo (Filet), Molleja (sweetbread, the locals' delicacy — butter-tender, crispy grilled). The empanadas are the best in San Telmo.
Prices: Steak 8,000–14,000 ARS (approx. 8–14€). Reservation necessary! Atmosphere: rustic, warm, authentic.
★★ El Desnivel — The Locals' Parrilla
Defensa 855, San Telmo. No frills, no Instagram design — just perfect meat at low prices. The parrilla of the Porteños: Here, the taxi driver generation eats next to the antique dealer. What to order: Bife de Chorizo with fries and salad — under 5,000 ARS (5€) for a complete steak meal. No other restaurant in BA offers this value for money.
★★ El Preferido de Palermo — The Institution
Borges 2108, Palermo. An almacén (grocery store) from the 1950s, which is also one of the city's most charming restaurants: wooden shelves full of wine bottles, antique scales, black-and-white photos on the walls. The kitchen mixes Argentine classics with Spanish influence: Rabas (fried calamari), Tortilla Española, Lomo al Verdeo (filet with spring onions). Legendary: the Matambre a la Pizza (thinly sliced flank steak with cheese and tomato sauce baked on top).
Prices: Main courses 5,000–10,000 ARS (5–10€). No reservation system — just come and wait (rarely long). Lunch and dinner.
Pizza, Cafés & Street Food
★★★ Pizza Güerín — The Legend
Av. Corrientes 1368, Microcentro. Since 1932 THE mecca for Argentine pizza — which is fundamentally different from Italian: thick dough, absurd amounts of cheese (here simply called "Muzza"), and the Fugazzeta (cheese and onions, no tomato sauce) is the local specialty. Best to order a slice of Muzza and a slice of Fugazzeta standing at the counter on the ground floor (faster and more authentic than in the restaurant upstairs). Also: Faíná (chickpea bread) and a bottle of Coca-Cola or beer.
A slice of pizza: 800–1,500 ARS (under 1.50€). Open almost around the clock — perfect as a midnight snack after clubbing. Address: Av. Corrientes, next to the Obelisco.
★★★ Café Tortoni — The Oldest Café
Av. de Mayo 825, Microcentro. Since 1858, the most famous café in Argentina — a "Café Notable" under historical protection. Marble tables, wood paneling, Art Nouveau lamps, and the ghosts of Borges, Alfonsina Storni, and Carlos Gardel, who were regulars here. What to order: Café con Leche and Churros con Chocolate (fried dough pastries with hot chocolate for dipping) — the classic Porteño breakfast.
The queue can be long (especially at lunchtime and on weekends) — come in the morning before 10 AM or in the afternoon after 4 PM. Prices are slightly higher than in normal cafés, but it's about the experience. In the basement, there are tango shows in the evening (approx. 5,000 ARS).
★★ Choripán — Argentina's Best Street Food
The Argentine chorizo (grilled sausage — spicy or "criolla"/mild) in a sliced bun with chimichurri (parsley-garlic-oil sauce) and optional salsa criolla (chopped tomatoes, onions, peppers). At every street stand, on every market, in front of every football stadium. The best ones are at the Sunday market in San Telmo, at the Feria de Mataderos, and at the stands in Costanera Norte. A choripán costs 500–1,500 ARS (0.50–1.50€).
★★ Fernet con Coca — Argentina's National Drink No. 2
After Mate, Fernet Branca with Coca-Cola is Argentina's most iconic drink — a bitter Italian herbal liqueur mixed with cola (ratio about 30:70). Sounds strange, tastes surprisingly good, and is ubiquitous in Argentina (especially in Córdoba!). In every bar, in every club, at every asado. The mix is served in a large glass (the "Fernet ferneteado"). Try it — you'll either be hooked or baffled.
Bars, Cocktails & Nightlife
★★★ Florería Atlántico — The Best Bar in South America
Arroyo 872, Retiro. Regularly among the World's 50 Best Bars. The entrance looks like an ordinary flower shop — behind the flowers, a staircase leads to a hidden basement with a vaulted ceiling, brick walls, and one of the most creative cocktail menus in the world. Each drink tells a story of Argentine immigration. What to order: The "Clásico Porteño" or simply trust the bartender.
Cocktails: 3,000–6,000 ARS (3–6€). From 7 PM, no reservation — but the queue can be long. Come before 8 PM or after midnight.
★★ Presidente Bar
Alvear Palace Hotel, Av. Alvear 1891, Recoleta. The most elegant cocktail bar in the city — in the lobby of the legendary Alvear Palace Hotel. Crystal chandeliers, leather sofas, bartenders in white jackets. What to order: A classic Negroni or the "Presidente" (house creation). The most expensive bar on this list — but an experience.
★★ Verne Club
Av. Medrano 1475, Palermo. Speakeasy bar behind an inconspicuous door (press the bell!). The interior is dedicated to Jules Verne — Victorian steampunk aesthetics, gears, old maps. The cocktails are theatrically served — some come in test tubes, others smoke. Very instagrammable, but also really good.
Nightlife — How it Works
Buenos Aires has one of the wildest nightlife scenes in the world — but only if you know the rhythm:
| Time | What Happens |
|---|---|
| 20:00–22:00 | Dinner — no Argentine eats before 9 PM. Reserve for 9:30 PM |
| 23:00–01:00 | Previa (Pre-drinking) — in a bar or at home with friends with Fernet con Coca and pizza |
| 01:00–02:00 | Clubs open — but it's still empty! Only tourists are in the club before 2 AM |
| 02:00–03:00 | The crowd trickles in. The DJ sets really start |
| 03:00–06:00 | The Party — now it's time to dance, the energy level is at its peak |
| 06:00–07:00 | After — some clubs continue (Cocoliche, Bahrein), others close. Breakfast in a 24-hour café |
The Best Clubs:
- Niceto Club (Palermo): The most versatile — Wednesdays "Club 69" (queer-friendly, colorful, wild), other nights Indie, Rock, Electronic. The Zizek party is legendary
- Crobar (Palermo): The techno temple — international DJs, large dance floor, good sound system
- Club Araoz (Palermo): House and Deep House in an intimate setting
- Bahrein (Microcentro): Two floors, goes until dawn and beyond
- La Tangente (Palermo): Experimental electronic music, art installations
Tipp
The golden rule of nightlife in Buenos Aires: If you're in the club at midnight, you're alone. Argentinians don't arrive before 2 AM. Before that: Bar-hopping in Palermo Hollywood (the best bars: Uptown, Casa Cavia, Nicky Harrison). On weekends, the night is from Thursday to Sunday — during the week, it's quieter.
Tango — Milongas & Shows
★★★ The Milonga — Where Real Tango Lives
Forget the expensive tango shows for tourists (unless you want Broadway-level). Real tango lives in the milongas — traditional dance evenings where Porteños of all ages dance. Some milongas take place in elegant salons, others in former warehouses, basketball halls, or cellars. The atmosphere is magical and ritualized: The invitation to dance often occurs through cabeceo — a subtle eye contact and nod, without saying a word.
The Best Milongas
- La Catedral (Almagro): Sarmiento 4006. Bohemian atmosphere in a former warehouse — bare concrete, hanging light bulbs, vintage furniture. The coolest and most unconventional milonga. Good mix of all ages and levels. Entry: approx. 2,000 ARS
- Salon Canning / Parakultural (Palermo): Scalabrini Ortiz 1331. Traditional and elegant — wooden floor, tango orchestra, older regulars who have been coming for 40 years. The atmosphere is serious and passionate. Mon, Wed, Fri
- La Viruta (Palermo): Armenia 1366. The most beginner-friendly milonga! Tango lessons before the milonga (from 8:30 PM, even without prior knowledge). The milonga itself starts at 11:00 PM and switches to salsa and rock at 1:00 AM. Entry: approx. 3,000 ARS incl. lessons. Wed–Sun
- El Beso (Microcentro): Riobamba 416. For purists — here, dancing follows strict tango codes (cabeceo required, tandas and cortinas, no talking on the dance floor). The dancers are excellent, the atmosphere intense
- Milonga del Indio (Boedo): Club Bohemios, Av. Chiclana 3549. One of the oldest milongas in the city — since the 1960s. Every Saturday, the best tangueros meet here
Tango Shows — The Spectacle
For the full show experience (orchestra, professional dancers, often with dinner):
- Rojo Tango (Faena Hotel, Puerto Madero): The most luxurious show — world-class dancers in an intimate, red cabaret hall. From 150 USD incl. dinner and drinks. Reservation weeks in advance
- Café de los Angelitos (Rivadavia 2100): Historic café since 1890, transformed into an elegant tango dinner show. From 80 USD
- Señor Tango (Barracas): The largest show — orchestra, gauchos, dancers, a spectacle. Touristy but professional. From 60 USD
- Piazzolla Tango (Galería Güemes, Microcentro): In a beautiful Art Nouveau hall. Mid-range price, good quality. From 50 USD
Tipp
For the best tango experience: FIRST visit a milonga to watch (La Viruta even offers beginner lessons from 8:30 PM), and THEN book one of the professional shows (Rojo Tango or Café de los Angelitos) for the spectacular staging. Both together give you the full picture. The milonga shows the soul, the show the skill.
Staying in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires offers accommodations for every budget — and thanks to the Blue Dollar, even upscale hotels are extremely affordable by European standards. A 4-star boutique hotel that would cost €250 in Paris is available here for €60–100.
€ Budget (10–25€/night)
América del Sur Hostel (San Telmo): Chacabuco 718. One of the best hostels in South America — huge rooftop terrace with views over San Telmo, asado evenings, bar, clean and well-managed. Dorm from €10, private rooms from €25.
Milhouse Hostel (Microcentro): Hipólito Yrigoyen 959. The party hostel classic — in a beautiful colonial building, but loud! Dorm from €8. Not for sleeping, but for partying.
€€ Mid-range (25–70€/night)
Che Lulu Boutique Hotel (San Telmo): Perú 1060. Stylish boutique hotel in a renovated colonial house, rooftop terrace with pool. Double room from €40.
Mine Hotel (Palermo Soho): Gorriti 4770. Design hotel with pool and garden in the heart of Palermo Soho. Perfect location, modern design. Double room from €55.
€€€ Upscale (70–200€/night)
Home Hotel (Palermo Hollywood): Honduras 5860. The it-hotel of the creative scene — pool, DJ sets, rooftop bar, design rooms. Double room from €90.
Legado Mítico (Palermo Soho): Gurruchaga 1848. Boutique hotel in a historic mansion, each room dedicated to an Argentine myth (Evita, Gardel, Borges). Double room from €120.
€€€€ Luxury (200€+/night)
Faena Hotel (Puerto Madero): Martha Salotti 445. Philippe Starck design, unicorn theme, the famous Rojo Tango hall, pool, spa. From €300. The luxury hotel of Buenos Aires.
Alvear Palace Hotel (Recoleta): Av. Alvear 1891. Since 1932, the grande dame of Buenos Aires hotels — classic luxury, butler service, the Presidente Bar. From €350.
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