Carretera Austral: Stage Planning
The Carretera Austral in Stages
The 1,240 km of the Carretera Austral can be divided into several logical stages. Here is a detailed overview for planning a 10–14-day road trip:
Stage 1: Puerto Montt → Chaitén (about 300 km, 2 days)
Ferry: The Carretera actually begins in Puerto Montt, but the first section has no continuous road — you must take a ferry across the Reloncaví Fjord (Naviera Austral, 4–5h, book in advance!). Alternative: Short ferry from La Arena to Caleta Puelche (30 min.).
Highlights: Parque Pumalín Douglas Tompkins (hikes through Valdivian rainforest, hot springs), Chaitén and the eponymous volcano (erupted in 2008 — the abandoned old town center is eerie).
Stage 2: Chaitén → Coyhaique (about 420 km, 3 days)
The wildest stage: Gravel roads through dense rainforest, over rushing rivers, past turquoise lakes. La Junta and Puyuhuapi are good stopovers. The Termas Ventisquero near Puyuhuapi are right on the fjord — you bathe in hot water with views of hanging glaciers.
Coyhaique (50,000 inhabitants) is the "capital" of the Aysén region and the best place to refuel, shop, and do laundry. Reserva Nacional Coyhaique offers beautiful day hikes with views over the city and surrounding mountains.
Stage 3: Coyhaique → Marble Caves (about 220 km, 2 days)
Through the Patagonian steppe to Lago General Carrera — the second-largest lake in South America. The color of the water (intensely turquoise) is breathtaking. In Puerto Río Tranquilo boat tour or kayak tour to the Marble Caves. Plan at least one night (weather dependent!).
Stage 4: Marble Caves → Cochrane → Villa O'Higgins (about 300 km, 3–4 days)
The loneliest stage: Hardly any traffic, few settlements, but incredible landscape. Cochrane is a sleepy village on the Río Baker (Chile's most water-rich river — the confluence of Baker and Nef is a natural spectacle of differently colored water). Caleta Tortel — a village built entirely on wooden walkways, without roads, accessible via a side road. End station: Villa O'Higgins.
Car Rental Tips
| Topic | Details |
|---|---|
| Vehicle Type | 4x4 (pickup or SUV) highly recommended. Many sections are not passable by regular cars |
| Rental | Rent from Coyhaique or Puerto Montt. About 60,000–120,000 CLP/day. Providers: Europcar, Hertz, local renters |
| Gasoline | ALWAYS fill up! Gas stations in Chaitén, Coyhaique, Cochrane. Up to 250 km of nothing in between. Bring a spare canister |
| Ferries | Naviera Austral (navieraustral.cl). Book 2–3 weeks in advance in high season! |
| Tires | Check the spare tire! Flat tires on gravel roads are common. Bring a tire repair kit |
| Speed | Max. 40–60 km/h on gravel. Slow driving = less stone chipping and fewer breakdowns |
💡 Tipp
Cycling the Carretera Austral is a lifelong dream for many bike travelers — it is doable (3–4 weeks), but challenging (gravel, headwinds, rain). For cyclists: The wind usually comes from the north, so South→North is more logical. But most ride North→South because the landscape keeps getting more impressive.