Ithaca★★
Ithaca is Homer's homeland — the island Odysseus sailed, fought, and suffered for ten years to return home. Whether the historical Odysseus really came from here is disputed among archaeologists (some suspect Kefalonia or even Lefkada). But that doesn't matter: Ithaca feels like the home of a hero — timeless, rugged, honest, and beautiful.
With only 96 km² and 3,000 inhabitants, Ithaca is one of the smallest inhabited Ionian islands. There are no large hotels, no clubs, no parties, no mass beaches. Instead: a few picturesque villages, secluded bays, olive groves, goat paths, and a silence you won't find in the Aegean or on Corfu.
Ithaca consists of two mountainous island halves, connected by a narrow isthmus at Aetos. In the south lies the capital Vathy, in the north the postcard villages Kioni and Frikes. The island is ideal for hikers, sailors, and all who seek pure Greece — without filters, without Instagram staging.
2–3 days are enough for Ithaca. The island is accessible by ferry from Kefalonia (Sami → Pisaetos, 30 min.) or Lefkada (Vasiliki → Frikes, 1 hr.). In summer, several times daily.
💡 Tipp
Ithaca is the perfect island for those who want to escape the crowds. No clubs, no resorts — just pure Greece.
Vathy
Vathy (also Ithaki Town) nestles on the shores of one of the world's largest natural harbors — a fjord-like bay that reaches so deep into the land that from the sea, you only see the town when you're almost in it. This very bay, say the Homer fans, is the harbor where Odysseus' ship anchored.
The town itself is small (1,800 inhabitants) but pretty: neoclassical houses (rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake), a palm-lined waterfront promenade, a few cafés and taverns at the harbor, and the Cathedral of Panagia with a valuable icon collection. Everything feels disproportionately calm and peaceful — even in August.
Archaeological Museum
Small but relevant: finds from the island, including Mycenaean pottery and Bronze Age items from the Cave of the Nymphs. 2€, Tue–Sun 8:30–15:30.
Beaches around Vathy
Gidaki Beach — Ithaca's best beach, accessible only on foot (30 min. from Vathy, steep path) or by taxi boat (5€). White pebbles, crystal-clear water, no infrastructure, heavenly peace. The hike through the forest is part of the experience.
Filiatro Beach — Easier to reach (2 km south of Vathy, by car). Small pebble beach with a tavern. Family-friendly.
In the Footsteps of Odysseus
Whether Odysseus ever existed or is a literary hero — on Ithaca, you can follow in his footsteps, and the landscapes alone make it worthwhile:
Cave of the Nymphs (Marmarospilia)
Homer describes a cave where Odysseus hid his treasures upon his return. This cave above the Bay of Dexia (2 km northwest of Vathy) is traditionally identified with it. The cave itself is small and unspectacular, but the hike there (20 min. from the bay) offers beautiful views, and the feeling of immersing in Homer's world is priceless.
Arethousa Spring
Homer describes the well where the swineherd Eumaeus watered his animals. The spring (or what is considered it) is located on the southeast coast, accessible via a beautiful but challenging hike (about 3 hours round trip from Vathy, partly steep). Along the way, views over the coast to Kefalonia. At the end: a rock niche with a trickle and the priceless feeling of walking the same path as Odysseus.
Stavros & the "Palace" Site
In the north lies the village of Stavros with a small archaeological museum (free) and the excavation sites on the hill Pelikata, where British archaeologist Sylvia Benton made Mycenaean finds in the 1930s — possibly the site of Odysseus' palace. Nothing is confirmed, but the location above the Bay of Polis is breathtaking.
Bay of Polis
Below Stavros: a sheltered bay, in whose cave on the north shore Bronze Age votive offerings to Odysseus were found — the strongest archaeological evidence that the Odysseus cult was already located on Ithaca in antiquity. The cave is partially collapsed and not accessible, but the beach is nice for swimming.
Kioni & Frikes
★★ Kioni
Kioni is Ithaca at its most postcard-perfect: a tiny harbor with Venetian houses, three old windmills on the hill above, fishing boats in crystal-clear water, and bougainvillea on every facade. Kioni has no museum, no sights, no attractions — the place itself is the attraction. Sit in one of the tavernas by the harbor (recommended: Calypso, fish of the day from €10), drink an ouzo, and watch the boats. That's all you need.
In summer, sailing yachts anchor in the bay, giving the village an international flair without overwhelming it. Swim right on the edge of town from the rocks.
Frikes
Frikes on the northeast coast is even smaller than Kioni — a ferry port (boats to Lefkada and Kefalonia), a handful of houses, two tavernas, and that's it. The place is the perfect starting point for hikes in the mountainous north of the island. The road from Frikes over Platrithia to Stavros is one of the most beautiful panoramic roads of the Ionian Islands — olive groves, cypresses, views over the Aegean to Lefkada.
Restaurant Tip: "Penelope" in Frikes — named after Odysseus' faithful wife, serves honest Greek cuisine: moussaka, grilled octopus, fresh fish. Seating directly by the water. Main courses €8–14.