Rethymno
Rethymno (Ρέθυμνο) is Crete's most charming small town — smaller than Chania, less touristy than Heraklion, and with an old town that harmoniously combines Venetian and Ottoman architecture like nowhere else in Crete. Plus, a 12 km long sandy beach right by the town, a lively student scene (University of Crete), and a Fortezza fortress from which you can see the south coast on a clear day.
Rethymno is the perfect compromise: beautiful enough to fall in love with, relaxed enough to stay, and strategically located between West and East Crete. From here, you can reach Arkadi (25 km), Preveli (35 km), Plakias (40 km), and the Amari Valley — all day trips.
Plan at least 2 nights, better 3–4 with the surroundings.
Old Town & Fortezza
Rethymno's old town is a wonderful jumble of eras. In a single alley, you encounter a Venetian portal, an Ottoman wooden balcony, a Greek Orthodox chapel, and a repurposed mosque. Unlike Chania (which can feel polished and touristy), Rethymno has a rough, lively authenticity: laundry hangs over the alleys, cats sleep in doorways, older gentlemen play Tavli (backgammon) in Kafenia.
★★ Fortezza
The massive Venetian fortress (1573–1580) towers on the Paleokastro hill above the city — the largest Venetian fortress on Crete. Built in response to Ottoman pirate attacks, it could not prevent the Ottomans from capturing Rethymno in 1646 (they took only 23 days). Inside: the Ibrahim Han Mosque (in the fortress core, now restored), remains of Venetian buildings, a small theater, and a magnificent panoramic view.
Admission: 4€. Daily 8 am–8 pm (summer), 8:30 am–3:30 pm (winter).
Rimondi Fountain
The Venetian fountain from 1626 in the heart of the old town — three lion heads spout water into a semicircular trough. Surrounding cafes and bars, the center of nightlife in the evening.
Neratze Mosque (Odeon)
Former Venetian church Santa Maria, converted by the Ottomans into a mosque, with the only remaining minaret in Rethymno. Now used as a concert hall (Odeon). The spiral staircase in the minaret can be climbed (ask!).
Rethymno Sand Beach
The 12 km long sandy beach east of the old town is Rethymno's trump card: wide, flat sand right by the city, with loungers, bars, and water sports. Less impressive than Balos or Elafonisi, but unbeatable in convenience. In May and June, loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta) nest here — with luck, you can observe egg-laying at dusk. Respect cordoned-off nests!
Arkadi Monastery★★
23 km southeast of Rethymno lies Crete's national shrine — and the place that symbolizes the Cretan struggle for freedom like no other. The Arkadi Monastery (Μονή Αρκαδίου), founded in the 5th century, is architecturally remarkable: The Renaissance facade of the monastery church (1587) with its Corinthian columns and carved gable is the most photographed building in Crete.
But Arkadi is more than architecture. On November 8, 1866, about 960 Cretans (including 700 women and children) barricaded themselves here during an uprising against the Ottoman occupation. When 15,000 Ottoman soldiers breached the walls, the defenders blew themselves up with the powder magazine — preferring death to submission. The explosion killed hundreds on both sides.
This event shocked Europe and drew international attention to the Cretan struggle for freedom. Victor Hugo and Giuseppe Garibaldi publicly spoke out for Crete. The monastery houses a museum with relics, weapons, and personal belongings of the defenders. In front of the monastery stands a cypress-surrounded memorial with the remains of the fallen.
A visit is emotional and educational — and helps to understand why Cretans are so proud and independent.
Admission: 3€. Daily 9 am–7 pm (summer), 9 am–4 pm (winter). Museum included in the price.
💡 Tipp
Arkadi can be perfectly combined with a trip to the Amari Valley — one of Crete's most beautiful landscapes: green valleys, Byzantine chapels, traditional villages (Thronos, Amari). Lunch at Taverna Aravanes in Thronos.
Plakias & Preveli Beach★★★
Plakias (40 km south of Rethymno) is a relaxed coastal village in a beautiful bay — the perfect place for those seeking peace instead of mass tourism. Long pebble beach, a few taverns, a small supermarket, that's it. The sea here is wilder than on the north coast (sometimes waves), the water even clearer. In the rocks west of the main beach lies the nudist beach Damnoni.
★★★ Preveli Beach (Preveli Palm Beach)
One of the most magical places in Crete — and a natural wonder. The river Megalopotamos flows into the sea here and has created a natural palm forest over millennia: Hundreds of Phoenix-theophrasti palms (an endemic Cretan species) line the riverbank, ending in a small sandy beach. Swim in the river between palms, under rocks — it feels like a tropical paradise in the middle of Europe.
Directly above the beach is the Preveli Monastery, which helped Allied soldiers escape from the south coast during World War II. Small museum, beautiful view.
Getting There: Car to the parking lot (4€), then 15 min. down a steep path with steps (and back up!). Or boat from Plakias (approx. 15€ return, only in summer, 30 min.).
Season: May–October. Busy in midsummer, but never as extreme as Balos/Elafonisi. No organized beach — no sunbed rental, no bar. Bring water and snacks!
💡 Tipp
The boat from Plakias is the more relaxing option (no steep descent). But with a car, you're more flexible. Combination: Morning at Preveli Beach, afternoon at Plakias Beach, evening fish dinner at Tasomanolis Tavern in Plakias (catch of the day, right by the sea, approx. 12–18€).