Northern Jordan

Jerash (Gerasa) — One of the Best-Preserved Roman Cities in the World

Just 50 km north of Amman lies Jerash (ancient: Gerasa), the best-preserved Roman provincial city outside Italy. What Pompeii is to Italy, Jerash is to the Middle East — with one crucial difference: While Pompeii was preserved under volcanic ash, Jerash simply stood forgotten in the landscape until it was rediscovered in the 19th century.

The city was one of the highlights of the Decapolis — a league of ten Greco-Roman cities in the eastern Mediterranean. Gerasa flourished in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, when it had 15,000–20,000 inhabitants and was one of the wealthiest cities in the province of Arabia.

The Highlights

• Hadrian's Arch: The monumental triumphal arch was built in 129 AD for Emperor Hadrian's visit. 13 meters high, with rich Corinthian ornaments — it marks the imposing entrance to the ancient city.
• Oval Plaza (Oval Forum): The unique oval plaza (56×80 m) is found nowhere else in the Roman world. 56 Ionic columns surround the elliptical paved area. In the center stood a fountain. Today, concerts and festivals sometimes take place here — the acoustics are perfect.
• Cardo Maximus (Colonnaded Street): The 800-meter-long main street, lined with 500 Corinthian columns. An elaborate drainage system ran beneath the pavement. Tetrapyla (four-column monuments) stand at intersections. You can almost feel the bustle of the ancient city.
• South Theater: The larger of the two theaters (3,000 spectators) is so well preserved that concerts are held there today. The acoustics are astonishing: A whisper in the middle of the stage can be heard in the last row. Tip: Stand in the center of the orchestra and clap — the echo is magical.
• North Theater: Smaller (1,600 seats), but also well preserved. It was used for council meetings.
• Temple of Artemis: The city's main temple, dedicated to the patron goddess Artemis. 11 of the original columns still stand, 12 meters high. In the wind, the columns sway slightly on their bases — a testament to the earthquake-resistant ancient construction.
• Nymphaeum: The magnificent ornamental fountain (191 AD) was once two stories high, clad in marble, and adorned with lion-head water spouts.

Jerash Festival

In July/August, the Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts takes place — one of the largest cultural festivals in the Middle East. Concerts, theater, and dance in the ancient setting. If possible, plan to attend!

Qal'at Ar-Rabad (Ajloun Castle)

22 km west of Jerash, perched on a hill above green pine forests, stands Ajloun Castle (Qal'at Ar-Rabad). This Muslim fortress was built in 1184 by a general of Saladin — as a strategic response to the Crusader castles beyond the Jordan Valley (like Belvoir in Israel). Its purpose: to control the iron ore mines, the trade routes between the Jordan Valley and Syria, and communication via fire signals between Damascus and Cairo.

The castle is impressively preserved: Massive walls, deep moats, narrow spiral staircases, and tower rooms bring the medieval atmosphere to life. From the towers, there is a fantastic panoramic view over the Jordan Valley to the mountains of Palestine and Israel — on clear days, even the Temple Mount in Jerusalem can be glimpsed.

Inside, a small museum provides information about the history of the castle and the Crusades. The walk from the parking lot to the castle (10 minutes) leads through a shady forest — in spring, wild orchids and poppies bloom.

Ajloun Forest Reserve

The Ajloun Forest Reserve (13 km²) is managed by the RSCN and protects one of the last oak, pistachio, and strawberry tree forests in the Middle East. Three hiking trails (2–8 km) lead through the forest, and there are cozy wooden cabins for overnight stays (35–60 JOD). In spring (March–May), the forest is at its most beautiful.

Umm Qais (Gadara) — Where Three Worlds Meet

Umm Qais is located in the far northwest of Jordan, on a plateau above the Jordan Valley, offering one of the country's most breathtaking viewpoints: From the terrace of the ancient theater, you can simultaneously see the Sea of Galilee (Tiberias) in Israel, the Golan Heights in Syria, and the Jordan Valley — three countries, one panorama.

The ancient city of Gadara was one of the Decapolis cities and famous for its philosophers, poets, and hot springs. In the Bible, Gadara is the place where Jesus drove demons into a herd of pigs (Mark 5:1–20). The ruins are less spectacular than Jerash, but the location is unbeatable.

Worth seeing: The West Theater (made of black basalt, unusual for the region), the colonnaded street, the nymphaeum, the Byzantine church with its basalt columns, and the small museum in the Ottoman governor's house. Plus: A restaurant with the best terrace in Jordan — coffee with a view of the Sea of Galilee as the sun sets.

The Desert Castles — Islamic Jewels in the Steppe

East of Amman, in the barren basalt desert towards Iraq and Saudi Arabia, the Desert Castles are scattered — a collection of early Islamic structures from the 7th–8th centuries, which are among the most fascinating monuments of the Umayyad dynasty. The term "castles" is misleading: they are hunting lodges, bath palaces, caravanserais, and fortresses.

The Most Important Desert Castles

• Qasr Amra (UNESCO World Heritage Site): The absolute highlight. This small bathhouse (8th century) houses the best-preserved early Islamic frescoes in the world: hunting scenes, naked women bathing, musicians, dancers, and a zodiac sign on the dome. The depiction of people and nudity in an Islamic building is unique and shows the openness of the early Umayyads. UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.
• Qasr al-Kharanah: The most impressive facade — a compact, square building with round corner towers, which looks like a fortress but probably served as a caravanserai or meeting place. 60 rooms on two floors.
• Qasr al-Azraq: The Black Basalt Fortress in the oasis of Azraq. Famous as the headquarters of T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) in the winter of 1917/18 during the Arab Revolt. His room above the entrance gate can be visited. The heavy basalt entrance door still swings on its stone pivots today.

Azraq Wetland Reserve

Next to the castle lies the Azraq Wetland Reserve — an oasis in the desert, which was once a vast wetland and is now being painstakingly restored. Birdwatchers will find migratory birds here on their way between Africa and Europe. Wooden walkways lead through the reed landscape.

Practical Tips

The three main castles (Amra, Kharanah, Azraq) can be visited in a 4–5-hour round trip from Amman (about 200 km). Alternatively, as a half-day trip on the way east. All are included in the Jordan Pass.

The Jordan Valley — Garden of Eden Between Worlds

The Jordan Valley stretches as a green strip along the western border of Jordan — from the Sea of Galilee in the north to the Dead Sea in the south. Thanks to artificial irrigation, it is Jordan's breadbasket: Bananas, dates, tomatoes, olives, and citrus fruits grow here in the subtropical warmth, which rarely falls below 15°C even in winter.

For travelers, the Jordan Valley is primarily a transit area — road No. 65 (Jordan Valley Highway) connects the north (Umm Qais) with the Dead Sea and is an alternative to the King's Highway. Along the way, stops are worthwhile:

• Pella (Tabaqat Fahl): An ancient Decapolis city with ruins from the Bronze Age to the Mamluk period. Little visited, atmospherically located above the Jordan Valley. Free of charge.
• Tell Deir Alla: An excavation site with finds from the Bronze and Iron Ages, including an Aramaic inscription about the biblical prophet Balaam.
• Shuneh (North Shuna): A small town with a lively Friday market where the valley's farmers sell their produce.

The drive through the Jordan Valley offers contrasting landscapes: To the left, the barren, brown mountains of Jordan, to the right, the green fields of the valley, and on the horizon, the mountains of the West Bank. In winter, when the hills are green and wildflowers bloom, the route is particularly beautiful.