Battambang & Northwest

Battambang — The Authentic Cambodia

Battambang is Cambodia's best-kept secret. The country's second-largest city (approx. 200,000 inhabitants) lies on the Sangke River, surrounded by the most fertile rice fields in the country — Battambang rice is considered the best in Cambodia. The city has the charm that Phnom Penh has lost: intact French colonial architecture, sleepy streets, no high-rises, real everyday life.

What makes Battambang special: the art scene. The city is the creative heart of Cambodia — thanks to organizations like Phare Ponleu Selpak, which provide children from difficult backgrounds with training in circus arts, music, theater, and visual arts. The result: a place more creative and culturally vibrant than any other city outside Phnom Penh.

Sights

• Colonial Old Town: Streets 1, 2, and 3 along the riverbank are lined with colonial buildings in French style — shop houses with balconies, arcades, and shutters. Many have been restored and house cafés, boutiques, and galleries. Best enjoyed on a late afternoon stroll.
• Phsar Nath (Central Market): The Art Deco market (1930s) is the heart of the city. Ground floor: groceries, fruit, fish. Upper floor: clothing, jewelry, household goods. Street food stalls around — Num Banh Chok (Khmer noodles) for breakfast for 0.50 USD.
• Sangke River Promenade: In the evening, locals and tourists stroll along the river. Street food stalls, drink vendors, playing children. On weekends: small night market.
• Wat Ek Phnom: An Angkor-era temple (11th century) 12 km north of the city. Less impressive than Angkor, but deserted and atmospheric. Next to it, a giant modern Buddha. Tuk-Tuk trip: 5–8 USD return.

Bamboo Train — The Craziest Train Ride in the World

The Bamboo Train (Norry) is a Cambodian invention born out of necessity: since the railway was destroyed during the Khmer Rouge era and subsequent civil wars, locals built their own "trains" — bamboo platforms on metal wheels, powered by a small gasoline engine. These vehicles race through rice fields and villages on old French colonial tracks at up to 40 km/h.

The genius: when two Norrys meet, the lighter one (fewer passengers) is quickly dismantled, the other passes through, then the first is reassembled. The whole process takes 2 minutes. Unbelievable.

The Current Bamboo Train

The "real" Bamboo Train was discontinued in 2017 when the railway line was modernized. A tourist version was reopened at a new location (7 km south of Battambang): a 4 km section with the same principle. Less authentic than the original, but still a unique experience — and the rice field landscape is beautiful.

Practical Information

Phare Ponleu Selpak — The Circus That Changes Lives

The Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus (Phare = "Lighthouse of the Arts") is Cambodia's most impressive social project — and at the same time one of the best circus shows you will ever see. In 1994, nine young Cambodians who learned art as therapy in the Site 2 refugee camp on the Thai border founded a school for disadvantaged children. Today, Phare is a recognized art school with circus, theater, dance, music, and visual arts.

The circus show is world-famous: acrobatics, juggling, theater, and live music tell Cambodian stories — from the Khmer Rouge era to everyday dramas to folklore. The performers are young Cambodians who might have ended up on the streets without Phare. It is powerful, emotional, and artistically top-notch.

Practical Information

Note: There are also Phare performances in Siem Reap (daily, 18–38 USD). The Battambang show is smaller and more intimate — here you see the performers on the campus where they live and train. The proceeds directly fund the school.

Banteay Chhmar — Angkor's Forgotten Twin

Banteay Chhmar ("Citadel of the Cat") is one of the largest and least visited temples in Cambodia — a vast complex from the 12th century, built under Jayavarman VII (the same king who built the Bayon and Ta Prohm in Angkor). The temple spans 2 km × 2.5 km and was once surrounded by a city.

What makes Banteay Chhmar special: it is practically unrestored and barely visited. Huge trees grow through the walls, galleries have collapsed, and you climb over piles of rubble while geckos scurry over the reliefs. It's the Indiana Jones experience that Ta Prohm once was before the tourist buses arrived.

Highlights

• Bas-reliefs: Some of the best reliefs of the entire Khmer Empire. The east wall depicts battle scenes against the Cham and mythological representations. Particularly noteworthy: a relief of the multi-armed Avalokiteshvara (Bodhisattva of Compassion).
• Face Towers: Like at the Bayon — enigmatic smiling faces look in all directions. Here you can stand alone in front of a face tower, while in Angkor hundreds fight for the same motif.
• Community-Based Tourism: The village of Banteay Chhmar offers homestays (8–12 USD with meals) and local guides (10–15 USD/day). Your money goes directly to the community.

Getting There

Banteay Chhmar is located 63 km north of Sisophon (3h from Battambang) on a partially unpaved road. The journey is adventurous:

• From Battambang: Private transport (50–70 USD/day round trip) or moped (120 km, 3–4h, unpaved sections).
• From Siem Reap: 170 km (4–5h), via Sisophon. Also possible as a day trip (but long).
• Overnight: Homestay in the village (recommended) or day trip from Battambang.

Sisophon — Hub in the Northwest

Sisophon (also Banteay Meanchey) is a functional provincial capital with no tourist highlight, but an important hub:

• Transfer point for travelers to/from Battambang, Siem Reap, and the Poipet/Thailand border crossing
• Base for excursions to Banteay Chhmar (63 km north)
• Market: Phsar Sisophon is a lively local market — good for a stopover

Overnight stay only necessary if you arrive late or want to leave early for Banteay Chhmar. Simple guesthouses from 8–15 USD.

Poipet — Thailand Border Crossing

The Poipet/Aranyaprathet border crossing is the most used land border between Cambodia and Thailand. The crossing is possible but notorious:

How the Border Crossing Works

1. Cambodian Exit: At the immigration counter. Exit stamp — quick and straightforward.
2. No Man's Land: 200 m on foot (or casino shuttle) to the Thai side.
3. Thai Entry: Visa-on-Arrival for Germans (30 days free). Can take 1–2h during peak season.
4. Onward to Bangkok: Minivan from Aranyaprathet to Bangkok (3.5h, approx. 200 THB = 5 EUR).