Southern Coast & Islands

Sihanoukville — The Gateway to the Islands

Sihanoukville (called "Kompong Som" by Cambodians) was once Cambodia's relaxed beach town. Since 2017, a massive Chinese construction boom has radically changed the cityscape: dozens of casinos, high-rises, and hotels have been built or are under construction. The once relaxed Serendipity Beach is now surrounded by construction sites.

The honest recommendation: Use Sihanoukville as a transit point to the islands and avoid spending a night here if you can. Ferries to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem depart from Serendipity Pier — arrive in the morning, ferry at noon, done.

Otres Beach — The Alternative

If you do want to stay in the area: Otres Beach, 5 km south of the center, has largely retained its backpacker charm. Quieter, cleaner, and with good guesthouses and restaurants. Tuk-Tuk from the bus station: 3–5 USD.

Practical Information

Koh Rong — Cambodia's Island Paradise

Koh Rong is Cambodia's largest island (78 km²) and a tropical paradise that is slowly transitioning from a backpacker secret to a popular travel destination — but still far from mass tourism. The island offers 43 km of white sandy beaches, turquoise waters, dense jungle, and a relaxed island life.

Beaches

• Long Set Beach (Long Beach): 7 km of white sand on the west coast — one of the most beautiful beaches in Southeast Asia. Hammocks, beach bars, sunset directly into the sea. The main beach for those seeking tranquility.
• Koh Touch: The "center" of the island with most accommodations, restaurants, and bars. This is where the nightlife happens (Wednesday: "Police Beach Party"). The beach is okay, but not the most beautiful.
• Sok San Beach: On the west coast, even quieter than Long Beach. Few accommodations, but endless sand. Accessible by boat from Koh Touch (15 min.).

Activities

• Bioluminescent Plankton: THE highlight! During the new moon (no moonlight), the sea glows blue-green with every movement — bioluminescent plankton. Night swimming in the glowing water is magical. Best at Long Set Beach or by night boat tour (8–12 USD).
• Snorkeling: Corals and tropical fish around the island. Day tours by boat: 15–20 USD (4–5 snorkeling stops, lunch included).
• Jungle Trekking: Hike across the island from Koh Touch to Long Set Beach (2.5–3 hours). Through dense jungle, over hills — shoes with grip needed. Possible without a guide, but slippery when it rains.
• Diving: Several dive schools on Koh Touch. Discovery Dive from 60 USD, PADI Open Water Course from 350 USD. Visibility 5–20 m, seahorses, bamboo sharks.

Accommodation & Budget

Koh Rong Samloem — The Quiet Sister

Koh Rong Samloem is smaller, quieter, and even more untouched than Koh Rong. The island (25 km²) is the better choice for those seeking peace: no party life, hardly any engine noise, instead jungle, crystal-clear water, and white beaches that you sometimes have all to yourself.

Beaches

• Saracen Bay: The crescent-shaped main bay on the east coast. Calm, turquoise water like a swimming pool. Most accommodations are here (from hostel dorms to upscale resorts). The ferry docks here.
• Lazy Beach: On the southwest coast, only accessible by boat (20 min. from Saracen Bay, 5 USD). Dramatic rocks, wild beach, a single namesake resort. Perfect seclusion.
• Sunset Beach: On the west coast, 30 min. walk through the jungle from Saracen Bay. Few accommodations, spectacular sunsets.

Activities

• Snorkeling from the Beach: Right off Saracen Bay — corals, clownfish, starfish. Snorkel set rental: 3 USD/day.
• Bioluminescence: Even better than on Koh Rong, because of less light pollution. At Sunset Beach during the new moon, the water glows like in a science fiction movie.
• Island Hiking: Path from Saracen Bay to Sunset Beach (30 min., easy). Through jungle with macaques and hornbills.
• Doing Nothing: This is a serious activity here. Hammock, book, sea. Repeat.

Kampot — Colonial Charm and the Best Pepper in the World

Kampot is Cambodia's most charming town and a must-visit for anyone looking for more than temples and beaches. The small town (approx. 40,000 inhabitants) on the Kampot River has preserved its French colonial charm: pastel-colored shop houses with balconies, shady boulevards, and a laid-back atmosphere reminiscent of a sleepy Mekong town.

Highlights

• Kampot Pepper: The most famous pepper in the world! Black, white, red, and fresh green pepper, grown on plantations in the hills around Kampot. The best plantations for visitors:
  • La Plantation: The most professional tour. Free guided tour (45 min.), tasting, restaurant, shop. 18 km north of Kampot. 8 USD for the deluxe tour with lunch.
  • Sothy's Pepper Farm: Family-run, personal, authentic. Free guided tour, pepper from 5 USD/100g.
• Boat Trip on the Kampot River: Sunset cruise (2h, 5–8 USD). Past mangrove forests and fishing villages, with beer and snacks on board. One of the most relaxing experiences in Cambodia.
• Old Town: The French colonial architecture around the old market and the riverside promenade. Many buildings have been lovingly restored and house cafés, boutiques, and galleries.
• Bokor Hill Station (Preah Monivong): An abandoned French mountain station at 1,080 m altitude, 32 km west of Kampot. Built in 1922 as a summer retreat for colonial rulers, abandoned and decayed — ghost town atmosphere. The old Bokor Palace Hotel (1925) stands as a ruin in the fog. Next door, a modern casino complex (bizarre contrast). Day trip from Kampot: 15–20 USD by moped or 30 USD by Tuk-Tuk. Entrance: free.

Practical Information

Kep — Crabs, Ruins, and Sea View

Kep (formerly "Kep-sur-Mer") was once the Saint-Tropez of Southeast Asia: In the 1960s, Cambodia's elite and French colonial officials built luxurious villas with sea views here. Then the Khmer Rouge came and destroyed almost everything. Today, the villa ruins, overgrown by jungle, are one of Cambodia's most fascinating sights.

Highlights

• Crab Market: THE reason for a visit to Kep. Right by the water, fishermen sell freshly caught crabs, prepared before your eyes with Kampot pepper. A portion of Pepper Crab: 4–6 USD. With rice and a cold beer. Seafood heaven.
• Kep Beach: A small, crescent-shaped sandy beach, newly replenished and clean. Not spectacular, but pleasant for swimming. Free sun loungers.
• Kep National Park: 50 km² of rainforest right behind the town. Hiking trails (Led Zep Trail: 8 km, 3h), viewpoints overlooking the Gulf of Thailand and the Vietnamese island Phu Quoc. Entrance: 1 USD.
• Day Trip: Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay): 25 min. by boat (7 USD return). Tiny island with a few bamboo bungalows (5–8 USD/night), hammocks, and a beautiful beach. Perfect for a lazy day. Bring cash — there is no ATM.

Bokor — The Ghost Town in the Clouds

The Bokor Hill Station (Preah Monivong National Park) at 1,080 m altitude is one of the most atmospheric places in Cambodia. The French built a mountain station here in 1922 as an escape from the heat of the plains. Hotels, a casino, and a Catholic church were built — all in an elegant Art Deco style.

Then came the Khmer Rouge, the Vietnam War, and decades of decay. Today, the ruins stand in the fog: The old Bokor Palace Hotel (1925), the church, the royal residence — abandoned, weathered, overgrown with moss and jungle. The atmosphere is eerie and at the same time melancholically beautiful.

What You See

• Bokor Palace Hotel (Ruins): The former luxury hotel from the 1920s — empty corridors, broken windows, open elevator shafts. Accessible, but be careful (rotten floors!).
• Catholic Church: A surreal sight in the fog. The stained glass windows are long broken, but the walls stand.
• Wat Sampov Pram: Five small stupas on the cliff edge with panoramic views over the coast and the Gulf of Thailand. In clear weather, you can see as far as Vietnam.
• Popokvil Waterfall: At the foot of the mountain, two-tiered (14 m + 18 m). Impressive in the rainy season, sometimes just a trickle in the dry season.
• Thansur Bokor Highland Resort: Right next to the ruins, a modern casino complex has opened — the surreal contrast between decay and new construction is an experience in itself.