Madeira

Funchal is the heart of Madeira — a city that clings like an amphitheater to the mountain slopes above the harbor. About 110,000 inhabitants live here, about half of the entire island population. The name comes from "funcho" (fennel), which grew wild here when it was discovered in 1419. Today, Funchal is a surprisingly cosmopolitan city with excellent restaurants, lively markets, and an old town full of street art and character.

The centerpiece is the Mercado dos Lavradores — the Art Deco market hall from 1940, a feast for all senses. On the ground floor, exotic fruits pile up that are not found on the European mainland: Annona (Cherimoya), passion fruit bananas, Tamarillo, and the tiny, sweet Madeira bananas. On the upper floor: fresh fish (including the black scabbardfish Espada, Madeira's specialty), flowers, and handmade wickerwork. Be sure to accept the free fruit samples, but beware: The vendors often try to sell overpriced fruit packages afterward.

The Zona Velha (Old Town) around Rua de Santa Maria is Funchal's hippest district. Since the "Portas Abertas" project (2010), over 200 artists have transformed the doors of the old houses into colorful artworks — a walkable open-air museum. Here, tapas bars, Fado venues, and restaurants line up. In the evenings, the atmosphere is fantastic.

The Sé Catedral (1514) is one of the few original preserved Manueline churches in Portugal — especially the Mudéjar wooden ceiling (Moorish influenced, inlaid with ivory) is considered a masterpiece. Free entry. Right next door, the Museu de Arte Sacra (3 €) is worth a visit, with Flemish paintings from the 15th/16th centuries, once traded for sugar.

Plan at least 1.5 days for Funchal — half a day for the market and the old town, half a day for the cable car to Monte (see wicker toboggan ride), and time for the restaurant scene in the evening.

The Levadas are Madeira's unique irrigation system — over 2,500 km of water channels that have been directing rainwater from the wet northern slopes to the dry southern slopes since the 15th century. Along these channels run narrow maintenance paths, which today form a world-unique network of hiking trails. The genius: Since Levadas follow a gentle slope, the paths are mostly flat — perfect for leisurely hikes through otherwise inaccessible gorges and primeval forests.

1. Levada das 25 Fontes & Risco Waterfall (★★★)
Madeira's most popular hike — and for good reason. The trail leads through the UNESCO-protected laurel forest of Rabaçal to a turquoise natural pool into which 25 waterfalls cascade. The detour to the Risco Waterfall (100 m drop) is worth it. Distance: 11 km (round trip), Duration: 4–5 hours, Difficulty: Medium. Start: Rabaçal parking lot (shuttle from parking ER110, €3 round trip).

2. Levada do Caldeirão Verde (★★★)
The wildest Levada hike: through tunnels (bring a flashlight!), along steep rock walls, and through dense laurel forest to an emerald green cauldron with a 100-meter waterfall. Those who continue to the Caldeirão do Inferno experience even more dramatic landscapes but must reckon with 6–7 hours. Distance: 13 km (Caldeirão Verde) or 18 km (to Inferno), Duration: 5–7 hours, Difficulty: Medium to Hard. Start: Queimadas Forestry House near Santana.

3. Vereda dos Balcões (★★)
The perfect beginner Levada: short, easy, and with a spectacular viewpoint over the Ribeira da Metade valley, framed by Madeira's highest peaks. Ideal for families or as an afternoon hike. Distance: 3 km (round trip), Duration: 1 hour, Difficulty: Easy. Start: Ribeiro Frio.

4. Levada do Rei (★★)
The "King's Levada" leads through lush laurel forest to a picturesque stream with waterfalls. Less crowded than the 25 Fontes, but just as atmospheric. Distance: 10 km (round trip), Duration: 3–4 hours, Difficulty: Easy to Medium. Start: Parque Florestal das Queimadas near São Jorge.

5. Levada do Norte — Eira do Serrado to Curral das Freiras (★★)
Combination of Levada and mountain hike with views of the Nuns Valley (Curral das Freiras) — a circular valley surrounded on all sides by 1,000-meter rock walls. From the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, you have the best view. The village in the valley is known for its chestnut dishes. Distance: 6 km (descent), Duration: 2–3 hours, Difficulty: Medium (steep downhill). Start: Eira do Serrado.

The royal hike of Madeira: from Pico do Arieiro (1,818 m), the third highest peak on the island, to Pico Ruivo (1,862 m), the highest point. The trail leads over a spectacular ridge path between the peaks — with drops on both sides, through tunnels, over stairs and rock ledges, often above the clouds. On clear days, the view extends to the neighboring island of Porto Santo and the horizon over 200 km away.

The Pico do Arieiro is accessible by car (road ER202, 30 min. from Funchal) and is already worth the experience: The parking lot is literally above the clouds, and at sunrise, the sea of clouds turns golden and pink — one of the most unforgettable natural spectacles in Europe. There is a café and a shelter here.

The hike to Pico Ruivo is 7 km long (one way), takes 3–3.5 hours, and is rated as medium difficulty — but the stairs and elevation changes (approx. 500 meters cumulative) make it more challenging than expected. There are two variants: the shorter, steeper "eastern path" and the longer, easier "western path". At the summit, the Abrigo do Pico Ruivo shelter awaits with WC and snacks.

Most hikers return the same way (a total of 14 km, 6–7 hours). Alternatively, you can descend from Pico Ruivo to Achada do Teixeira (45 min.) and arrange a taxi back there. This variant saves 3 hours but requires logistical planning.

The best time for the hike is early in the morning from 7 am — then the chances of clear views are greatest before the clouds rise. Weather on Madeira's mountains is unpredictable: It can change from bright sunshine to dense fog and icy wind within minutes. Even in summer, it can be below 10 °C on the peaks.

Câmara de Lobos is Madeira's most picturesque fishing village — and even Winston Churchill couldn't resist it, painting the harbor here in 1950. The small harbor with its colorful fishing boats, framed by a steep rock wall and overshadowed by the dramatic cliff Cabo Girão (580 m, one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe), is one of the island's most iconic scenes.

The village is only 10 minutes west of Funchal (Bus No. 154, every 30 min., €2) and is the home port of the Espada fishermen — the fishermen who catch the black scabbardfish (Espada), Madeira's culinary flagship, at over 800 m depth with longlines at night. Early in the morning, you can watch the boats return and marvel at the fresh catch.

The bar at the harbor is the perfect place for a Poncha (see chapter Food) — the view of the colorful boats, the towering cliff, and the Atlantic is priceless. The place itself has narrow streets with traditional houses, a small church, and a promenade that runs along the sea.

From Câmara de Lobos, a detour to the Cabo Girão Skywalk is worthwhile — a glass viewing platform on the 580-meter-high cliff with a free view straight down to the ocean and the "fajãs" (fertile terraces at the foot of the cliff, only accessible by cable car). The Skywalk is free and a must for those without vertigo. Accessible by car (10 min.) or Bus No. 154.

On Madeira's wild northwest coast lies Porto Moniz, known for its natural sea swimming pools made of lava rock — one of the most unique swimming opportunities in Europe. Thousands of years ago, lava flowed into the sea here, forming natural pools that are now fed by the Atlantic: crystal-clear seawater, protected from the surf, surrounded by black volcanic rock and white spray.

There are two bathing areas: The Piscinas Naturais (municipal natural pools) with changing rooms, showers, sun terraces, and lifeguards cost €3 entry (children €1.50). They are more maintained and family-friendly. Next to them are the freely accessible natural pools (Cachalote area) — wilder, more authentic, but without infrastructure and not safe during high waves.

Porto Moniz is 90 minutes by car from Funchal — the drive along the north coast road ER101 is an experience in itself, with tunnels, waterfalls cascading directly onto the road (especially near São Vicente), and dramatic coastal views. The alternative via the high road ER110 over Paul da Serra (Madeira's only plateau, 1,400 m) offers completely different landscapes — barren heath instead of tropical lushness.

In the town itself, the Aquário da Madeira (7 €) is worth a visit, a small aquarium in a former fortress with local marine animals. And the restaurants at the harbor serve the freshest fish on the north coast — Polvo grelhado (grilled octopus) and Lapas (limpets with garlic butter) are the specialties. A lunch with a sea view costs €12–18 per person.

The Jardim Botânico da Madeira is one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in Europe — located on terraces above Funchal, with over 2,500 plant species from all continents and a breathtaking view over the city and the harbor. The garden was opened in 1960 on the grounds of the former Quinta do Bom Sucesso and uses Madeira's subtropical climate to showcase plants that do not thrive in any other European garden.

The highlights are the geometrically arranged flower beds at the entrance (a kaleidoscope of Strelitzias, orchids, Protea, and hibiscus — the most popular photo subject), the cactus and succulent collection (one of the largest in Europe), the laurel forest section with original trees of the UNESCO-protected Laurisilva, and the parrot garden with tropical birds. A separate area is dedicated to the endemic plants of Madeira — species that occur only on this island.

The garden is accessible via the Teleférico do Jardim Botânico (cable car) — a separate cable car that runs from the Babosas district to the garden (single ride €5.50, round trip €9). Alternatively, the city bus No. 31 (€3) or a taxi (€6–8 from the center). The facility is extensive — plan 1.5–2 hours.

Directly next to the Botanical Garden is the Jardim Orquídea (Orchid Garden, €5) with over 50,000 orchids — a separate, privately run garden that is particularly spectacular from November to February during the orchid bloom. And from the Botanical Garden, another cable car (Teleférico do Jardim Botânico–Babosas) goes down to Monte, where you can follow with the wicker toboggan ride — a perfect half-day.

The Carros de Cesto — the wicker toboggans of Monte — are Madeira's most famous and quirkiest means of transport, a relic from the 19th century when wealthy residents of Funchal would glide down the steep hill into the city center in woven wicker baskets on wooden runners, steered by two "Carreiros" in white shirts and straw hats, who brake the sled with their rubber boots.

Today, the ride is a tourist attraction, but one that is genuinely fun. The route leads from the Igreja do Monte (pilgrimage church at 600 m altitude) 2 km downhill through the streets of Funchal, reaching speeds of up to 38 km/h. Two Carreiros steer the wicker toboggan with ropes and brake with their feet — a leap of faith rewarded with adrenaline. The ride lasts 10 minutes and ends in the Livramento district (not in the center — a taxi back costs about €5).

The prices: €30 for one person, €50 for two people in the same sled. Expensive for 10 minutes? Yes. Unique? Definitely. The Carreiros work on a tip basis — an additional €5 is appropriate. The operation runs Mon–Sat from 9 am to 6 pm (Sunday closed), with waiting times often 30–60 minutes in summer.

Before the toboggan ride, a visit to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte is worthwhile — Madeira's most important pilgrimage church. Here lies the tomb of the last Austro-Hungarian Emperor Charles I, who died in exile on Madeira in 1922. The church is freely accessible and offers a beautiful view over Funchal. Right next to it is the Jardim Tropical Monte Palace (€12.50) — a lush garden with azulejos, Japanese sculptures, and tropical plants in a former hotel park.

Madeira's cuisine is hearty, seafood-rich, and surprisingly distinctive — noticeably different from the mainland. The island has developed its own specialties, shaped by its isolation in the Atlantic, the subtropical climate, and the influences of seafarers who brought exotic spices and ingredients on their journeys.

The national dish of Madeira is Espetada — large pieces of beef, marinated in garlic, bay leaf, and coarse salt, skewered on a bay branch and grilled over an open flame. In traditional restaurants, the Espetada is hung on a hook above the table, and the meat drips onto Bolo do Caco (sweet potato bread). An unforgettable experience — main courses from €12–16.

The Black Scabbardfish (Espada) is Madeira's culinary emblem — a deep-sea fish caught at over 800 m depth with longlines at night. It looks terrifying (long, black, with huge eyes) but tastes fine and buttery. The classic preparation: Espada com banana — breaded scabbardfish with fried banana and passion fruit sauce. Sounds strange, tastes fantastic. From €13.

Bolo do Caco is the unofficial national bread — a round flatbread made from wheat flour and sweet potato, baked on a hot basalt stone and spread with garlic butter. At street stalls from €1.50, in restaurants usually free as a side dish. Lapas (limpets) are grilled with garlic butter and are a popular snack with beer (€6–8 per portion).

And then there's the Poncha — Madeira's national drink: freshly squeezed lemon juice, honey, and Aguardente de Cana (sugarcane brandy), stirred with a special wooden whisk (Caralhinho). The classic Poncha is sharp-sweet-strong and dangerously delicious. Variants with passion fruit, orange, or tangerine are milder. A glass costs €2.50–4. The best Poncha on the island is supposedly found at the Bar "O Velho" in Câmara de Lobos and in the Taberna da Poncha in the mountain village of Serra de Água — a tiny counter, family-run since 1954, where thousands of visitors have left their signatures on the walls.

The small town of Santana on the north coast is famous for its Casas de Colmo — the triangular, thatched houses with colorful doors and shutters that have become a symbol of Madeira. These houses, once the typical construction of the rural population, served as both living and stable buildings — animals below, the family above under the thatched roof.

Today, most of the remaining Casas de Colmo are located in the Parque Temático da Madeira (theme park, €6), a family-friendly park on the outskirts of town showcasing Madeira's culture, history, and nature. The original preserved houses at the town hall square (freely accessible) are more photogenic, but there are only a few left. Santana has been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2011.

The real reason to visit Santana is the surrounding nature: From here start the Levada hikes to Caldeirão Verde (from the Queimadas Forestry House, 5 km west) and there are spectacular coastal paths. The Queimadas Forestry House itself — a fairytale building with a thatched roof in a moss-covered forest — is worth a visit, even without a hike.

The drive from Funchal to Santana (40 minutes via the VE4 highway) is already an experience — the landscape changes from subtropical to alpine and back to lush green. Santana has some good, affordable restaurants: Cantinho da Serra serves Espetada and Espada for under €12 — with views of the green mountains.