East Coast — Catania, Taormina & Etna

Mount Etna (Etna, Sicilian: Mungibeddu, 3,357 m) is Europe's highest and most active volcano — and the undisputed symbol of Sicily. The "mountain of all mountains" is not an abstract force of nature, but a living part of everyday life: For the people of Catania, Etna is simply "a Muntagna" (the mountain), both a blessing and a threat. Its eruptions provide the slopes with mineral-rich soil where Sicily's best wines, pistachios, and oranges thrive — and can send lava flows threatening villages at any moment.

Experiencing Etna: The most common access is the south side from Nicolosi (Rifugio Sapienza, 1,910 m). From there, the Funivia dell'Etna (cable car, €36 return) takes you up to 2,500 m, where off-road buses (€30) continue to about 2,900 m. From there, it's on foot to the summit craters — the last 400 meters in altitude are only allowed with a certified mountain guide (mandatory above 2,900 m, about €50 per person including helmet and hiking poles). The view into the steaming craters, fumaroles, and cooled lava flows is an unforgettable experience.

The north side (from Piano Provenzana, 1,800 m, accessible from Linguaglossa) is quieter and wilder — here you drive through dense birch forests and over cooled lava fields. Off-road tours (from €60) take visitors to the craters on the north side. In winter (December–March), Etna transforms into a ski resort — two small stations on the south and north sides offer slopes with the most absurd panorama in Europe: skiing on an active volcano with views of the Mediterranean Sea 30 km away.

The Etna wines are currently experiencing a boom: The volcanic soils at 600–1,000 m altitude produce mineral-rich, elegant red and white wines from indigenous grape varieties (Nerello Mascalese, Carricante) that delight international critics. Wineries like Benanti, Planeta, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, and Passopisciaro offer tastings — an Etna wine tour is the culinary highlight of the east coast.

Taormina (Tauromenion) is Sicily's most famous town and one of the most beautiful places in the Mediterranean. Situated on a rocky terrace 200 meters above the Ionian Sea, with the snow-capped Etna in the background, Taormina has been a magnet for poets, painters, aristocrats, and film stars since the 18th century. Goethe was here, D.H. Lawrence wrote here, Liz Taylor and Richard Burton stayed at the Grand Hotel Timeo — and Instagram has finally made Taormina the epitome of Mediterranean beauty.

The heart of the town is the Teatro Greco (Teatro Antico) — a Greco-Roman theater from the 3rd century BC, one of the most impressive ancient theaters in the world. Not because of its size (4,500 seats), but because of its setting: The stage opens onto an arch through which you can simultaneously see Etna, the Bay of Naxos, and the deep blue Ionian Sea — perhaps the most famous view of all antiquity. In summer, concerts, theater performances, and the Taormina Film Fest take place here — a performance at the Teatro Greco at sunset is one of Sicily's unforgettable experiences.

The Corso Umberto I is Taormina's elegant promenade: 800 meters from Porta Messina to Porta Catania, lined with baroque churches, antique shops, cafes, restaurants, and the small Piazza IX Aprile — a terrace with panoramic views of the coast and Etna, one of the most photogenic spots in Europe. Below the old town lies the Isola Bella (Beautiful Island) — a tiny, wooded island in a turquoise bay, connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand. By cable car (€3) from the center to the beach — the bay is perfect for snorkeling.

Taormina has a downside: In high season (July/August), it is extremely crowded and expensive. Prices in restaurants and hotels are among the highest in Sicily. To enjoy Taormina in peace, visit in May, June, or October — then the atmosphere is relaxed, the view of Etna is often clearest, and prices are reasonable.

Catania is Sicily's second-largest city (310,000 inhabitants) and the rough, energetic counterpoint to elegant Palermo. Destroyed by Etna seven times, rebuilt seven times — most recently after the devastating earthquake of 1693, when the entire city was reborn in black baroque from dark lava stone. The result is a city of somber beauty: black palaces with white marble accents, dramatic baroque churches, and wide boulevards that create an almost surreal contrast in the Sicilian sunlight.

The Piazza del Duomo is the center: Here stands the city's landmark — the Elephant Fountain (Fontana dell'Elefante): an elephant made of black lava stone carrying an Egyptian obelisk. Behind it rises the Cathedral of Sant'Agata (with the relics of the city's patron saint, whose festival on February 5th is one of Italy's largest religious spectacles). The Via Etnea, Catania's elegant main street, stretches 3 km straight north from the Duomo — with Etna at the end of the line of sight, perfectly closing the street.

Catania's La Pescheria (fish market) is the raw counterpart to Palermo's Ballarò: Every morning (except Sunday), the square behind Piazza del Duomo transforms into a deafening spectacle of shouting fishmongers, swordfish, tuna, sea urchins, and octopuses. Behind it: restaurants that immediately prepare the freshly bought fish. The granita from Catania is considered the best in Sicily — especially almond or pistachio, with a warm brioche bun. In the morning, it's a must.

Catania also has the best nightlife in Sicily: The San Berillo Vecchio district and the area around Via Teatro Massimo offer bars, clubs, and live music until the early hours. The university (one of the oldest in Europe, 1434) provides a young, vibrant atmosphere that Palermo lacks.

The Aeolian Islands (Isole Eolie) are an archipelago of seven volcanic islands off the northeast coast of Sicily — a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000 and one of the most fascinating travel destinations in the Mediterranean. Each island has its own character, and all combine volcanic landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and an atmosphere of timeless seclusion.

Stromboli is the star: The eponymous volcano (924 m) is one of the most active volcanoes on Earth — every 15–20 minutes it hurls glowing lava fountains into the night sky. The ascent to the summit (from 2024 only with a certified guide, about €28, 5 hours round trip) at sunset, to watch the eruptions from above in the darkness, is a natural spectacle like no other. Alternatively: Charter a boat and watch the Sciara del Fuoco (Fire Slide) — the flank where the lava flows into the sea — from the water at night.

Lipari is the largest and liveliest island: a pretty harbor town with a castle, an archaeological museum (one of the best in the Mediterranean for prehistoric finds), good restaurants, and the pumice stone beaches of Canneto. Vulcano smells of sulfur and offers a unique experience: The ascent to the Gran Cratere (391 m, 1 hour) passes steaming fumaroles and rewards with views of all seven islands. At the foot of the volcano are the famous Fanghi — natural sulfur mud baths where you can bathe (smelly, but good for the skin).

Salina is the greenest and most culinary interesting island: Here, the famous capers of Salina (Slow Food Presidium) are grown, and the Malvasia delle Lipari (amber dessert wine) is one of Italy's best dessert wines. Panarea is the small jet-set island with white houses and exclusive bars — Sicily's answer to Mykonos. Filicudi and Alicudi (the westernmost islands) are wild, lonely, and car-free — for individualists seeking the end of the world.