Galicia & Costa da Morte
Galicia is Spain's Celtic corner — greener, rainier, and more melancholic than the rest of the country. Here you'll find bagpipe music (Gaita), Celtic crosses (Cruceiros), granite houses, and a cuisine defined by the Atlantic: Pulpo á feira, Percebes, Empanadas, and Albariño wine.
The Costa da Morte (Coast of Death) west of Santiago is one of the wildest coastal stretches in Europe: rugged cliffs, roaring surf, solitary lighthouses, and Cape Finisterre — the "end of the world," where pilgrims traditionally burn their walking shoes after reaching Santiago. The name comes from the countless shipwrecks that have shattered against the rocks here over the centuries.
Plan 3–4 days for Galicia (excluding Santiago): 2 for the Costa da Morte and the Rías Baixas, 1–2 for Lugo and the interior.
Costa da Morte & Finisterre★★
★★★ Cape Finisterre (Fisterra)
The westernmost end of the European mainland (almost — technically, it's Cabo da Roca in Portugal, but the symbolism counts). For pilgrims, the true end of the Camino de Santiago: Here they burn their shoes and watch the sun set into the Atlantic. The lighthouse (1853) stands on a cliff, 143 m above the sea. Magical at sunset.
Free access. Bus from Santiago (2.5 hours, about 13 €) or rental car (90 min). The beach path from Fisterra to the cape (3 km) is beautiful.
★★ Muxía
Small fishing village with the Santuario da Virxe da Barca — a pilgrimage church right on the cliffs, surrounded by huge granite rocks believed to have magical powers. The Pedra de Abalar (rocking stone) is said to move if touched by a sinless person.
★★ Rías Baixas
The fjords of Galicia on the southwest coast — warmer than the Costa da Morte, with the best mussel farming areas in Europe. The Bateas (mussel rafts) in the Ría de Arousa produce 250,000 tons of mussels annually. Boat tours with mussel tasting from 15 €. The beach of Islas Cíes (only accessible by boat, limited access, book in advance!) was voted the "most beautiful beach in the world" by the Guardian.
Ferry to the Islas Cíes from Vigo: 19 € round trip (Naviera Mar de Ons). Apply for permission through the Xunta de Galicia (free, but mandatory).