Northern Cyprus

Since the Turkish invasion in 1974, Northern Cyprus (37% of the island's area) has been a de facto independent state — internationally recognized only by Turkey. For the EU and the rest of the world, the area belongs to the Republic of Cyprus. This political situation has paradoxical consequences:

• Less tourism: Without international recognition, no direct flights (except from Turkey), fewer hotels, less infrastructure — but also less crowds and more authenticity.
• Cheaper prices: 30–50% cheaper than the south. Food, hotels, and activities cost a fraction.
• Turkish culture: Mosques instead of churches, kebab instead of souvlaki, Turkish Lira instead of Euro, Turkish street signs. And yet: the Cypriot DNA is palpable everywhere.
• Preserved history: Some of the most impressive historical sites of Cyprus are in the north — partly better preserved because they are less touristically overdeveloped.

For EU citizens, entry into the north is unproblematic: cross the Green Line, show ID, done. Returning to the south is just as easy. A day trip to Northern Cyprus is one of the most impressive experiences of a Cyprus trip.

★★★ Kyrenia — The Most Beautiful Harbor of Cyprus

Kyrenia (Turkish: Girne) is the pearl of Northern Cyprus — a picturesque harbor town on the north coast, overshadowed by a massive Crusader castle and the Besparmak Mountains (Pentadaktylos). The historic harbor is postcard-perfect: colorful fishing boats, restaurants with tables by the water, fortress walls as a backdrop. In the evening, when the lanterns glow and the food is served, the atmosphere is irresistible.

★★★ Kyrenia Castle (Girne Kalesi)

The massive fortress at the harbor has a turbulent history: Byzantine foundations (7th century), Frankish expansion (Lusignans, 12th–15th centuries), Venetian reinforcement, Ottoman use, British prison. Today a museum — the absolute highlight is the Shipwreck Museum inside:

An ancient Greek merchant ship from the 4th century BC, salvaged off the coast in 1965 — one of the oldest preserved sailing ships in the world. The 15 m long ship transported wine and almonds and likely sank during a pirate attack. The salvage and conservation are an archaeological sensation.

Kyrenia Harbor. 15 TL (approx. 3€). Daily 9:00–17:00. 1–1.5 hours.

★★ Bellapais Abbey (Beylerbeyi)

5 km above Kyrenia, on a rocky outcrop with a breathtaking view of the north coast and the sea, stand the ruins of the Gothic Premonstratensian Abbey (13th century). The cloisters with their pointed arch windows, the refectory hall, and the cypresses in the courtyard create one of the most romantic images of Cyprus.

The British writer Lawrence Durrell lived in Bellapais in the 1950s and immortalized the village in his book "Bitter Lemons of Cyprus" — one of the most beautiful travel narratives of the 20th century.

Beylerbeyi (Bellapais), 5 km from Kyrenia. 15 TL (approx. 3€). Daily 9:00–17:00 (winter), 9:00–19:00 (summer). 45–60 min.

★★ St. Hilarion — The Crusader Castle in the Clouds

High above Kyrenia, on a 732 m high peak of the Besparmak Mountains, sits the most fairy-tale castle of Cyprus. Three rings of walls climb the mountain, and from the highest point (the "Queen's Window"), the view over the north coast and on clear days to the Turkish coast is simply overwhelming. Walt Disney is said to have been inspired by St. Hilarion for his Sleeping Beauty Castle.

10 km from Kyrenia, mountain road. 15 TL (approx. 3€). Daily 9:00–17:00. Steep ascent, sturdy footwear. 1.5–2 hours. Bring water!

★★★ Famagusta — Between Gothic and Ghost Town

Famagusta (Turkish: Gazimağusa) on the east coast is one of the most fascinating cities in the Mediterranean — and one of the most tragic. The mighty Venetian city walls (up to 15 m high, 8 m thick) enclose an old town full of Gothic churches that have become mosques or ruins.

★★★ Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (St. Nicholas Cathedral)

Perhaps the most impressive repurposed church in the Near East. The Gothic St. Nicholas Cathedral (1298–1312) once rivaled Notre-Dame de Paris. After the Ottoman conquest in 1571, a minaret was added, and the Lusignan kings' tombs were removed. Today: prayer rugs under Gothic ribbed vaults. On the outer facade stands a supposedly 700-year-old fig tree.

Namık Kemal Meydanı, Old Town. Free. Outside prayer times. Appropriate clothing.

★★★ Varosha (Kapalı Maraş)

The ghost town — once the most glamorous beach resort in Cyprus. In the 1960s and 1970s, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, and Brigitte Bardot celebrated here. Hotels, boutiques, restaurants — everything flourished.

On August 15, 1974, as the Turkish army advanced, the 40,000 residents fled headlong. The city was sealed off and has remained uninhabited and fenced off ever since — a surreal time capsule. High-rise buildings without windows, overgrown streets, decaying hotels.

Since October 2020, parts of the beach area of Varosha have been reopened. You can visit the beach and walk through some streets — next to the fenced-off decaying hotels. A disturbing, unforgettable experience that makes the tragedy of Cyprus's division palpable.

Varosha Beach, south of Famagusta Old Town. Free. Entry through controlled access. Photography allowed (on the beach), restricted in some areas. Do not attempt to go behind the barriers!

★★ Othello's Tower

The citadel at the harbor is traditionally associated with Shakespeare's Othello — the governor Christoforo Moro, who resided here in the 16th century, is said to have been Shakespeare's inspiration. The fortress offers a panoramic view of the harbor, city walls, and the sea.

Harbor, Old Town. 10 TL (approx. 2€). 9:00–17:00.

★ Salamis

4 km north of Famagusta lie the ruins of the ancient city of Salamis — the most important city of Cyprus in antiquity. Extensive ruins: a gymnasium with marble columns, a Roman theater (15,000 seats), baths with mosaic floors, a basilica. Right next to it: the sandy beach of Salamis (Silver Beach) — perfect for a cool-down after the visit.

4 km north of Famagusta. 15 TL (approx. 3€). Daily 9:00–17:00. Large site — 1.5–2 hours. Little shade!

★★ Karpaz — The End of the World

The Karpaz Peninsula (Karpasia) is the long, narrow "finger" in the northeast of Cyprus — 80 km long, almost uninhabited, wild and romantic. Here, there are no resorts, no cocktail bars, no Instagram hotspots. Instead: endless sandy beaches, wild donkeys trotting across the road, abandoned Greek village churches, and the silence of nature.

Golden Beach (Altın Kum Plajı)

The most beautiful beach in Northern Cyprus — 3 km of golden sand, almost deserted, at the northeastern tip of the peninsula. No loungers, no bars (sometimes a mobile snack van). Just sand, sea, and the silhouette of the Turkish coast on the horizon. Turtles nest here from June to August.

Apostolos Andreas Monastery

At the very tip of Karpaz stands the Monastery of Apostle Andreas — a Greek Orthodox pilgrimage shrine revered by both communities despite the division. Recently lavishly restored. The place at the end of the world has a mystical aura.

Wild Donkeys

The peninsula is home to hundreds of wild donkeys — descendants of the working donkeys left behind after the expulsion of the Greek population in 1974. They stand everywhere by the roadside and can be fed (fruit, no bread!).

From Famagusta to the tip of Karpaz: about 2.5 hours drive (100 km). Gas station: in Dipkarpaz (Rizokarpaso), the last settlement. Little infrastructure — bring water and snacks. Accommodation options: Karpaz Gate Marina Hotel (luxury), Oasis Hotel (budget). Best as a 2-day excursion.

Border Crossings (Green Line Crossings)

There are 9 official border crossings between South and Northern Cyprus. The most important for tourists:

What You Need to Know

• Documents: ID card or passport. No visa for EU citizens.
• Duration: 2–5 minutes each way. Passport control on both sides.
• Opening hours: Pedestrian crossings 24/7. Car crossings partially restricted (6:00–24:00).
• Rental cars: South Cypriot rental cars have NO insurance coverage in the north. Buy short-term insurance at the crossing (approx. 20€/3 days, 35€/30 days).
• Goods: You may bring goods worth up to 260€ from the north to the south. Cigarettes: max. 40 pieces. No meat, no dairy products.

Money in the North

Official currency: Turkish Lira (TRY). Euros are accepted almost everywhere — albeit at an unfavorable rate. ATMs in Kyrenia and Famagusta dispense Lira. Credit cards are accepted in hotels and larger restaurants, often not in small establishments.

Tip: For a day trip, it's enough to bring 20–30€ in cash. In most restaurants and museums, you can pay directly in Euros.

Food in the North

The cuisine in the north is Turkish influenced: Kebab, Lahmacun, Pide, Börek, Ayran. But also Cypriot classics like Halloumi (here: Hellim) and Meze are omnipresent. Prices: A complete lunch with a drink for 8–15€ is normal.

Recommended Day Routes

• Half-day from Nicosia: Green Line → Büyük Han → Selimiye Mosque → Bandabulya Market → Lunch → back (3–4h)
• Full-day Kyrenia: Via Agios Dometios → St. Hilarion Castle → Bellapais → Kyrenia Harbor & Castle → Dinner at the harbor → back (8–10h)
• Full-day Famagusta: Via Pergamos → Salamis → Famagusta Old Town → Varosha → back (8–10h)
• 2 Days Karpaz: Day 1: Famagusta + Salamis. Day 2: Karpaz Peninsula → Golden Beach → Apostolos Andreas → back