Antibes & Cap d'Antibes

Antibes (75,000 inhabitants) is the best-kept secret of the Côte d'Azur — or at least it was. Located between Cannes and Nice, Antibes has a fully preserved old town with 16th-century fortress walls, one of the largest marinas in Europe (Port Vauban, 1,642 berths, superyachts up to 165 m), and with the Cap d'Antibes one of the most exclusive peninsulas in the Mediterranean.

The Musée Picasso in Château Grimaldi is unique: Pablo Picasso used the castle as a studio in 1946 and left 23 paintings and 44 drawings as a thank you. "La Joie de Vivre," "Ulysse et les Sirènes," and the cheerful fauns and centaurs — here you feel the Mediterranean joie de vivre that Picasso found on the Riviera. The rooftop terrace with views over the bay is magical.

The Marché Provençal (Cours Masséna) is one of the most beautiful markets in the region — covered, daily except Monday, 6–13. Fresh fruit, cheese, olives, tapenade, lavender soap, Socca. Less touristy than the Cours Saleya in Nice, better prices.

Cap d'Antibes — the peninsula south of the old town is a paradise for walkers. The Sentier du Littoral (coastal path, about 2 hours, 3.7 km) leads around the entire southern tip of the cape: spectacular cliffs, pine forests, hidden coves, and views of the Îles de Lérins. At the highest point stands the Phare de la Garoupe (lighthouse) with panoramic views and a chapel where fishermen have left votive offerings for centuries.

The Jardin Thuret — a botanical garden on the cape (established in 1857), 3.5 hectares with over 3,000 exotic plants. Free and hardly visited.

Musée Picasso: €8 (reduced €5). Tue–Sun 10–13 and 14–18 (summer continuously until 18). Jardin Thuret: free, Mon–Fri 8–17:30.