Provence

Aix-en-Provence—affectionately called "Aix" (pronounced "Äx") by the locals—is the most elegant city in Provence and its cultural heart. The former capital of the historic County of Provence impresses with broad plane tree boulevards, aristocratic townhouses (Hôtels particuliers) from the 17th and 18th centuries, over 40 fountains, and a student energy that gives the city a youthful vibrancy.

The Cours Mirabeau, Aix's grand boulevard, divides the city into two halves: to the north, the medieval Old Town (Vieil Aix) with its winding alleys, small squares, and the daily flower and vegetable market on the Place Richelme; to the south, the elegant Quartier Mazarin with its baroque palaces. On the Cours Mirabeau itself, street cafés line up under mighty plane trees—the Les Deux Garçons (since 1792) was the regular café of Cézanne and Zola.

Aix is inextricably linked with Paul Cézanne. The painter was born here in 1839 and obsessively painted his leitmotif, the Montagne Sainte-Victoire, over 80 times. His Atelier (Atelier de Cézanne) still stands exactly as he left it in 1906: the easel, the hat, the apples—as if he had just stepped out. The studio (€7) and the Terrain des Peintres (viewpoint from which he painted the Sainte-Victoire) are pilgrimage sites for art lovers. The Musée Granet (entry €8) showcases Cézanne alongside Picasso, Giacometti, and contemporary works.

Every Saturday, Aix transforms into one big market: the Marché d'Aix stretches over several squares and streets with Provence lavender, olive oil, Calissons (the famous Aix almond confection specialty), fresh goat cheese, and mountains of fruit.

Avignon, the "City of the Popes," is one of France's most historic cities. Between 1309 and 1377, seven popes resided here instead of in Rome—the so-called "Babylonian Exile of the Church"—and their legacy is the Palais des Papes, the largest Gothic palace in the world. The fully preserved city wall (4.3 km, 14th century) encloses a vibrant old town with alleys, squares, and street cafés.

The Papal Palace (UNESCO World Heritage Site) is a colossus of white limestone—from the outside a fortress, from the inside a labyrinth of chapels, banquet halls, and papal apartments. The Great Chapel (Chapelle Clémentine) is 52 meters long and 15 meters high. The frescoes by Matteo Giovannetti in the Chapelle Saint-Jean and the Chapelle Saint-Martial are among the most important works of international Gothic. A tablet with an augmented reality tour (included in the entrance fee) brings the once splendidly furnished, now largely empty rooms back to their medieval glory.

The Pont Saint-Bénézet—better known as the Pont d'Avignon from the famous children's song ("Sur le pont d'Avignon, l'on y danse…")—has been a ruin since the 17th century: Of the original 22 arches spanning the Rhône, only four remain. You can walk the remaining arches (€5.50 or combo ticket with the palace €17) and enjoy the view of the Papal Palace from the small Saint Nicholas Chapel on the bridge.

Every July, Avignon transforms into the world capital of theater: The Festival d'Avignon (founded in 1947 by Jean Vilar) and the parallel Festival OFF bring over 1,500 performances to churches, cellars, courtyards, and the streets. The city bursts at the seams—book accommodation months in advance.

The Lavender Fields of Provence are one of Europe's most iconic natural spectacles—endless rows of purple lavender stretching over gentle hills to the horizon, permeated by the intoxicating scent of essential oils, flown over by bees and butterflies. The bloom lasts from mid-June to mid-August, with the peak varying depending on altitude and variety.

Plateau de Valensole ★★★

The Plateau de Valensole in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is the quintessence of the lavender experience: 800 km² of high plateau, covered with lavender and sunflowers, interrupted only by solitary stone houses and almond trees. The D6 road from Valensole to Puimoisson offers the most photogenic panoramas. The village of Valensole itself has several lavender distilleries where you can see the distillation process and buy lavender oil, soap, and honey (from €8). Most beautiful in the morning sun (6–9 am), when the light is golden on the purple rows and the tourists are still asleep.

Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque ★★★

The most photographed motif of Provence: the Romanesque Cistercian Abbey of Sénanque (1148), nestled in a valley north of Gordes, with lavender rows reaching up to the monastery walls. The monks still live here, grow lavender, and distill oil, which can be bought in the monastery shop (lavender oil from €12, honey from €10). The abbey can be visited (guided tour in French, €8.50), but the magical moment is the view from above of the abbey and lavender field—most beautiful from late June to mid-July.

Other Lavender Hotspots

Sault (Vaucluse, 780 m altitude): Here, the lavender blooms later (mid-July to mid-August) and more intensely. The Fête de la Lavande (August 15) is a big folk festival. Banon: Less touristy, but with authentic lavender cultivation and the famous Banon goat cheese (wrapped in chestnut leaves). The Route de la Lavande connects the most beautiful fields over 250 km from Apt via Sault to the Verdon.

The Luberon is every Provence traveler's dream: a chain of hills between Cavaillon and Manosque, made famous by Peter Mayle's book "A Year in Provence," crowned by the most beautiful villages in France (Villages les plus beaux de France). Honey-colored stone houses cling to rocky outcrops, narrow alleys wind around fountains and churches, and the view sweeps over vineyards, olive groves, and lavender fields.

Gordes ★★★

Gordes is the quintessential postcard village of Provence: a conical hill covered from top to bottom with light stone houses, crowned by a Renaissance castle (12th–16th century, now an exhibition venue). The view from the viewpoint on the D15 of the village is breathtaking—especially in the morning or evening light when the stones glow golden. In the village itself: winding alleys, small galleries, a weekly market (Tuesday mornings) with local goat cheese and olive oil. The Village des Bories (3.5 km south) is an open-air museum with dry stone wall huts used since the Bronze Age (€6).

Roussillon ★★★

The "Colorado of Provence": Roussillon glows in all ochre tones—from lemon yellow to fiery red to rust brown. The houses are painted with the local ochre pigment, which has been mined here since the 18th century. The Sentier des Ocres (Ochre Trail, €3.50) leads through a surreal landscape of carmine-red spires and ochre cliffs—like a miniature canyon in Arizona. The Usine Mathieu (old ochre factory, €8) explains the mining and processing. Caution: Do not wear white shoes—the ochre stains!

Bonnieux, Ménerbes & Lacoste

Bonnieux: Perched on a hill with panoramic views of the Luberon Valley. The old church (12th century) at the top, the new cedar forest on the north slope. Ménerbes: Peter Mayle's village, much quieter than Gordes. The Maison de la Truffe et du Vin offers tastings of Luberon wines and truffle products (tastings from €10). Lacoste: Dominated by the ruins of the Marquis de Sade's castle, now owned by Pierre Cardin, who hosts a cultural festival here.

Lourmarin

The "Saint-Tropez of the Luberon": Lourmarin is the liveliest of the Luberon villages, with excellent restaurants, boutiques, a Renaissance castle (€5), and the grave of Albert Camus in the small cemetery. Friday mornings is a big market.

Arles is the city where antiquity and art meet most impressively. The Romans made Arles the capital of Gaul—their amphitheater (Les Arènes, 1st century AD, still used today for bullfights and concerts), the Théâtre Antique, and the remains of the Forum Romanum are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. And then came Vincent van Gogh.

Van Gogh lived in Arles from February 1888 to May 1889—fifteen months during which he created over 300 works, including some of his most famous: the Starry Night over the Rhône, the Night Café, the Bedroom in Arles, the Sunflowers series, the Langlois Bridge. None of these paintings are in Arles today (they are scattered in Amsterdam, New York, London, and Paris), but the original locations are marked: The Fondation Vincent van Gogh (entry €10) presents changing exhibitions of contemporary art in dialogue with Van Gogh. A marked Van Gogh walking tour (10 steles with reproductions) leads to the places he painted—from the Place du Forum (the "Café de la Nuit," today "Le Café Van Gogh" with a yellow facade) to the Rhône riverbank.

Since 2021, Arles has had a new cultural beacon: LUMA Arles, a tower designed by Frank Gehry made of 11,000 mirrored aluminum panels, standing like a twisted crystal in the Provençal landscape. The cultural center showcases contemporary art, photography, and design (entry €16). Next door, in the former railway workshops, the Rencontres d'Arles take place—the world's most important photography festival (July–September).

The amphitheater (2,000 years old, 21,000 seats, smaller than the Colosseum but better preserved) can be visited (€9). In summer, bullfights (Courses camarguaises—bloodless Provençal tradition) and concerts are held here.

The Camargue is a world unto itself: a 930 km² river delta between the two arms of the Rhône and the Mediterranean, a flat, wind-swept landscape of salt lagoons, reed fields, rice fields, and endless beaches. Here live the famous white Camargue horses (one of the oldest horse breeds in Europe) semi-wild in the swamps, along with black Camargue bulls and over 400 bird species, including thousands of pink flamingos.

The Highlights

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer: The only real town in the Camargue—a fishing village with a fortified Romanesque church (9th century), from whose roof you can see the flamingos in the lagoon. Every May, Roma from all over Europe pilgrimage here for the Festival of the Black Sara, their patron saint—one of the most colorful religious festivals in Europe. The beach is endless and almost deserted at the western end.

Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau: The best place to see flamingos up close (literally 10 meters away). 60 hectares of marked paths through lagoons and swamps. Entrance €8. Most beautiful in the late afternoon when the light turns pink—like the flamingos.

Horseback Riding: Exploring the Camargue on the back of a white Camargue horse is the most iconic experience. Numerous ranches offer rides (1 hour from €25, 2 hours from €40, half-day from €65). Also suitable for beginners—the Camargue horses are extraordinarily calm and sure-footed.

Salt Harvesting (Salins du Midi): The salt flats near Aigues-Mortes—a fully walled medieval town (13th century, from where Louis IX set out on the Crusades)—are huge pink-red salt basins where the famous Fleur de Sel is harvested. Tours by train or on foot (€10.50). Aigues-Mortes itself, with its city wall walk (8 €), is worth a visit.

The Gorges du Verdon is the "Grand Canyon of Europe"—a 21 km long, up to 700-meter-deep gorge through which the turquoise-green Verdon River winds. The color of the water—an unreal, luminous turquoise reminiscent of the Caribbean—is created by fluorine minerals and micro-algae dissolved in the limestone. It is the most spectacular natural landscape in southern France and one of the most impressive canyons worldwide.

The Two River Roads

The gorge can be experienced on two panoramic roads: The Route des Crêtes (north bank, D23) offers the most dramatic views from rock outcrops that rise 700 meters vertically above the river. Several Belvédères (viewpoints) are signposted—the Point Sublime and the Belvédère de l'Escalès are the most breathtaking. The Corniche Sublime (south bank, D71) is the curvier, wilder route with tunnels and rock balconies. A circuit of both banks (about 130 km) takes a whole day with photo stops.

Activities

Kayaking & Canoeing: The most popular way to experience the gorge. At Lac de Sainte-Croix (the turquoise reservoir at the western entrance to the gorge), you can rent kayaks, pedal boats, and electric boats (kayak from €15/hour, pedal boat from €18/hour) and paddle into the narrow gorge—the high rock walls rise 300 meters on either side. The entrance to the gorge from the lake is one of Europe's most photogenic natural scenes.

Hiking: The famous Sentier Martel (15 km, 6–7 hours, demanding) runs along the bottom of the gorge—ladders, tunnels with flashlights, river crossings. Alternatively: the Sentier de l'Imbut (shorter but technically more challenging). The Blanc-Martel trail (variant, 13 km) is the most chosen route. Good shoes, a headlamp, and plenty of water are essential.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie: The "gateway to the Verdon Gorge" is one of the most beautiful villages in France—built into a rock crevice, with a golden star hanging on a chain between two rock towers 227 meters above the village (legend says it was hung by a crusader). Known for its faience ceramics (hand-painted plates and vases, workshops in the alleys, from €30). Excellent restaurant: La Treille Muscate (Provençal cuisine, main course €22–32).

Provençal cuisine is sunshine on a plate: olive oil instead of butter, tomatoes, garlic, herbs of Provence (thyme, rosemary, oregano, savory), zucchini, eggplants, peppers, and fresh fish. Cooking here is not complicated—the quality of the ingredients speaks for itself. Provence is also one of the best wine regions in France and the heart of French rosé production.

The Classics

• Ratatouille — The Provençal national dish: stewed eggplants, zucchini, peppers, tomatoes, onions, and garlic, slowly cooked in olive oil. In the classic version, the vegetables are sautéed individually, then stewed together—not a stew, but a refined harmony work. Best served lukewarm or cold as a starter.
• Bouillabaisse — Marseille's queen: a fish stew that was originally the food of fishermen and is now one of the most expensive dishes in southern France. Traditionally with at least four types of fish (scorpionfish, monkfish, gurnard, conger eel), served in two courses: first the saffron-yellow broth with croutons and Rouille (garlic-saffron mayonnaise), then the fish. A real Bouillabaisse costs €45–80 per person—and is a must when visiting the coast. In Marseille: Chez Fonfon (Vallon des Auffes, since 1952, Bouillabaisse €72) or Miramar (Vieux-Port, €69).
• Aïoli — Literally "garlic and oil": a thick garlic mayonnaise, served as a Friday dish with poached cod, hard-boiled eggs, potatoes, carrots, and green beans. The "Grand Aïoli" is a convivial feast for the whole table.
• Daube provençale — Slowly braised beef in red wine, olives, orange peel, and herbs. 4–6 hours cooking time, even better the next day.
• Tapenade — Paste of black or green olives, capers, anchovies, and olive oil. On toasted bread as an aperitif—alongside a Pastis (anise liqueur, €3).
• Pissaladière — The "pizza of Provence": bread dough topped with caramelized onions, anchovies, and Niçoise olives. Available at every market (piece from €4).

The Markets

Provençal markets are not shopping opportunities—they are a way of life. Every village has its market day, and the stalls are laden with tomatoes in ten varieties, melons from Cavaillon (the sweetest in France), goat cheese in all stages of maturity (fresh, affiné, sec), olives in twenty marinades, lavender sachets, ceramics, and fabrics.

• Aix-en-Provence — Saturday, Place Richelme & Cours Mirabeau. The largest and most beautiful in the region.
• L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue — Sunday. Famous for the huge antiques market (300 dealers) plus food market. Twice a year (Easter & August 15) the big antiques fair with 800 dealers.
• Apt — Saturday. Authentic farmers' market in the heart of the Luberon. Truffles (November–March), candied fruits (specialty of Apt).
• Arles — Saturday, Boulevard des Lices. Colorful, loud, fragrant—the market that most embodies "Provence."
• Vaison-la-Romaine — Tuesday. The most important market in northern Vaucluse, located in the medieval upper town.

Rosé

Provence produces 40% of all French rosé—and here it is not a compromise solution, but the royal class. Lighter, drier, and more elegant than elsewhere. The best appellations: Bandol (robust, long-lasting), Côtes de Provence (the all-rounder), Tavel (the only rosé with its own AOC, dark pink and full-bodied). Tastings at wineries are often free or from €5. Recommendation: Château d'Esclans (Whispering Angel, the world's most famous Provence rosé) or Domaines Ott (the reference since 1912).