Colmar★★★
Colmar is the most picturesque city in Alsace — and that means something in a region full of picture-book towns. The third-largest city in Alsace (about 70,000 inhabitants) survived World War II almost unscathed and therefore has one of the best-preserved historic city centers in Europe: over 1,000 half-timbered houses from the 13th to 17th centuries in vibrant pink, blue, yellow, and green.
The heart of the city is "Little Venice" (Petite Venise) — a district along the La Lauch canal with pastel-colored half-timbered houses reflecting in the water, flower boxes on every balcony, and tiny bridges. Boat trips through Little Venice (about 30 min., €8) are kitschy-beautiful and still worth it.
Colmar is also a first-class cultural city. The Musée Unterlinden in the former Dominican convent houses the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grünewald (circa 1512–1516) — one of the most harrowing and expressive works of Western painting. The crucifixion scene with its realism and emotional impact alone is worth the trip to Colmar.
💡 Tipp
Colmar has one of the driest climates in France (less rain than Nice!) thanks to the shielding by the Vosges. The city is ideal as a base for the Alsace Wine Route — all wine villages are within a 30-minute drive. Hotels in the old town from about €85/night.
Sights in Colmar
Musée Unterlinden & Isenheim Altarpiece
The most important museum in Alsace, expanded in 2015 with a modern extension by Basel architects Herzog & de Meuron. In addition to the Isenheim Altarpiece — whose folding wings display three different pictorial programs — the museum houses an excellent collection from the Middle Ages to modern times: Cranach, Holbein, Schongauer, Picasso, Monet.
€13 (adults), under 18 free. Wed–Mon 9 a.m.–6 p.m. (Thu until 8 p.m.). Closed on Tuesdays.
Little Venice (Petite Venise)
The tanner's district along the Lauch: Quai de la Poissonnerie (former fish market), the pretty Rue des Tanneurs and the view from the Pont Saint-Pierre on the row of half-timbered houses are the highlights. Boat trip: €8/person, departure at Rue de la Herse, March–October.
Old Town Walking Tour
Start at the Place de la Cathédrale (Collegiate Church of Saint-Martin, 13th century, with glazed roof tiles), continue past the Koïfhus (Old Customs House, 1480), the oldest public building in the city, to the Pfister House (1537, magnificent facade painting), then through the Rue des Marchands and the Rue des Têtes (with the famous House of Heads — 106 masks and heads on the facade). Duration: about 2 hours.
Bartholdi Museum
Colmar is the birthplace of Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, the creator of the Statue of Liberty. His birthplace (30 Rue des Marchands) is now a museum with models, designs, and personal items. €6.
Food & Drink in Colmar
Winstub Brenner · 1 Rue de Turenne
Cozy winstub with a wood-paneled room. Tarte flambée "gratinée" (with Munster cheese) €12, Coq au Riesling €19, Tarte aux Myrtilles (blueberry tart) €8. Excellent Alsatian wines by the glass.
€€ · Thu–Mon 12–2 p.m. & 6:30–9:30 p.m.
Chez Hansi · 23 Rue des Marchands
Named after the Alsatian illustrator Hansi, whose nostalgic drawings shaped the image of Alsace. Traditional cuisine: head cheese €11, Baeckeoffe €22, Gugelhupf with cream €9. Touristy, but authentic cuisine.
€€ · Daily 12–2 p.m. & 7–10 p.m.
JY'S · 17 Rue de la Poissonnerie
Michelin-starred restaurant by Jean-Yves Schillinger. Creative French-Alsatian cuisine in a modern setting right in Little Venice. Lunch menu from €45, dinner menu from €85. Reservation absolutely necessary.
€€€ · Tue–Sat 12–1:30 p.m. & 7–9 p.m.
Marché couvert · Rue des Écoles
Covered market: cheese, charcuterie, pretzels, kougelhopf. Thu 8 a.m.–6 p.m., Sat 7 a.m.–5 p.m. Perfect for a picnic by the canal.
