Food & Markets of Provence

Provençal cuisine is sunshine on a plate: olive oil instead of butter, tomatoes, garlic, herbs of Provence (thyme, rosemary, oregano, savory), zucchini, eggplants, peppers, and fresh fish. Cooking here is not complicated—the quality of the ingredients speaks for itself. Provence is also one of the best wine regions in France and the heart of French rosé production.

The Classics

• Ratatouille — The Provençal national dish: stewed eggplants, zucchini, peppers, tomatoes, onions, and garlic, slowly cooked in olive oil. In the classic version, the vegetables are sautéed individually, then stewed together—not a stew, but a refined harmony work. Best served lukewarm or cold as a starter.
• Bouillabaisse — Marseille's queen: a fish stew that was originally the food of fishermen and is now one of the most expensive dishes in southern France. Traditionally with at least four types of fish (scorpionfish, monkfish, gurnard, conger eel), served in two courses: first the saffron-yellow broth with croutons and Rouille (garlic-saffron mayonnaise), then the fish. A real Bouillabaisse costs €45–80 per person—and is a must when visiting the coast. In Marseille: Chez Fonfon (Vallon des Auffes, since 1952, Bouillabaisse €72) or Miramar (Vieux-Port, €69).
• Aïoli — Literally "garlic and oil": a thick garlic mayonnaise, served as a Friday dish with poached cod, hard-boiled eggs, potatoes, carrots, and green beans. The "Grand Aïoli" is a convivial feast for the whole table.
• Daube provençale — Slowly braised beef in red wine, olives, orange peel, and herbs. 4–6 hours cooking time, even better the next day.
• Tapenade — Paste of black or green olives, capers, anchovies, and olive oil. On toasted bread as an aperitif—alongside a Pastis (anise liqueur, €3).
• Pissaladière — The "pizza of Provence": bread dough topped with caramelized onions, anchovies, and Niçoise olives. Available at every market (piece from €4).

The Markets

Provençal markets are not shopping opportunities—they are a way of life. Every village has its market day, and the stalls are laden with tomatoes in ten varieties, melons from Cavaillon (the sweetest in France), goat cheese in all stages of maturity (fresh, affiné, sec), olives in twenty marinades, lavender sachets, ceramics, and fabrics.

• Aix-en-Provence — Saturday, Place Richelme & Cours Mirabeau. The largest and most beautiful in the region.
• L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue — Sunday. Famous for the huge antiques market (300 dealers) plus food market. Twice a year (Easter & August 15) the big antiques fair with 800 dealers.
• Apt — Saturday. Authentic farmers' market in the heart of the Luberon. Truffles (November–March), candied fruits (specialty of Apt).
• Arles — Saturday, Boulevard des Lices. Colorful, loud, fragrant—the market that most embodies "Provence."
• Vaison-la-Romaine — Tuesday. The most important market in northern Vaucluse, located in the medieval upper town.

Rosé

Provence produces 40% of all French rosé—and here it is not a compromise solution, but the royal class. Lighter, drier, and more elegant than elsewhere. The best appellations: Bandol (robust, long-lasting), Côtes de Provence (the all-rounder), Tavel (the only rosé with its own AOC, dark pink and full-bodied). Tastings at wineries are often free or from €5. Recommendation: Château d'Esclans (Whispering Angel, the world's most famous Provence rosé) or Domaines Ott (the reference since 1912).