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Regionen · Kapitel 4

Golden Circle

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RegionenKapitel 4: Golden Circle
Regionen · Kapitel 4

Golden Circle

The three highlights Þingvellir, Geysir, and Gullfoss on a day route from Reykjavík — the most compact dose of Icelandic magic and the perfect introduction for first-time visitors. Plus hidden insider tips away from the tourist buses.

The Golden Circle — Overview

The Golden Circle is Iceland's most popular day tour, connecting three highlights on a roughly 300 km round trip from Reykjavík. Almost every visitor to Iceland takes this route — and rightly so: In a compact area, you experience tectonic geology, an active geyser, and one of the island's most powerful waterfalls.

The route can be comfortably driven in one day with a rental car (5–8 hours depending on stops). Alternatively, there are countless organized bus tours from Reykjavík (from about 8,000 ISK/53€). If you have more time, plan for two days to also include the hidden highlights.

Typical Route: Reykjavík → Þingvellir (45 min) → Geysir (50 min) → Gullfoss (10 min) → back to Reykjavík (1.5h).

Extended Route (recommended): Reykjavík → Þingvellir (Silfra snorkeling!) → Laugarvatn Fontana → Geysir/Strokkur → Gullfoss → Friðheimar Tomato House → Secret Lagoon in Flúðir → Kerið Crater → Reykjavík. Plan for 10–12 hours.

The History of the Golden Circle

The name "Golden Circle" was coined by the tourism industry in the 1990s. However, the route itself has existed for decades — the three highlights were already the most popular excursion destinations for the few travelers who made it to Iceland in the 19th century. Today, on peak days in summer, over 3,000 vehicles travel the route — another reason to start early or include the lesser-known stops.

Þingvellir National Park★★★

Nationalpark: ganzjährig geöffnet (24h). Besucherzentrum: 9:00–18:00 (Sommer), 9:00–17:00 (Winter)
Eintritt frei! Parkgebühr: 750 ISK pro Auto

Where Continents Drift Apart

Þingvellir (pronounced: "Thingvetlir") is one of Iceland's most significant places — geologically, historically, and spiritually. Here, the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet, and they drift 2 cm apart each year. The result: A massive rift with dramatic rock fissures, where crystal-clear glacier water shimmers.

The rift is up to 7 km wide and sinks several millimeters per decade. The Almannagjá gorge (the "gorge of all men") is the western edge of the North American plate, and when you walk through it, you are literally between continents. It is one of the few places on Earth where you can see and touch the Mid-Atlantic Ridge on the surface — it usually lies deep under the Atlantic Ocean.

UNESCO World Heritage — The Birth of Democracy

Even more significant is the history: In 930 AD, the Vikings founded the Alþingi here — the world's oldest existing parliament. Every summer, the chieftains from all over Iceland gathered at the Lögberg (Law Rock) to proclaim laws, settle disputes, and administer justice. The location was perfect: The natural acoustics of the rock walls amplified the voice of the law speaker, allowing hundreds of listeners to hear him.

Here, in 1000 AD, Christianity was declared for all of Iceland — a compromise to avoid a civil war. According to legend, the law speaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði withdrew under an animal skin for a day and a night to meditate before announcing the decision. And here, on June 17, 1944, the Republic of Iceland was proclaimed — in pouring rain, but under the cheers of thousands of Icelanders.

Þingvellir has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004 — as a testament to one of the world's oldest parliamentary institutions.

Silfra Fissure — Diving Between Continents

The highlight for adventurers: In the Silfra Fissure, you can snorkel or dive between the tectonic plates in crystal-clear glacier water. Visibility reaches up to 100 meters — the clearest water in the world. The water originates from the Langjökull glacier and filters naturally as it seeps through porous lava rock over 30–100 years.

The water is 2–4°C cold year-round (dry suit included!). The dive leads through four areas: Silfra Big Crack (the narrow fissure where you can touch both tectonic plates simultaneously), Silfra Hall (wider, with an underwater view), Silfra Cathedral (up to 63m deep, light breaks turquoise through the water), and Silfra Lagoon (shallow and calm, where the tour ends).

Snorkeling: From 19,990 ISK (133€), no experience needed, 2–3h tour including briefing. Diving: From 33,990 ISK (227€), PADI Open Water or equivalent required, dry suit experience recommended. Book in advance — slots are limited!

Hiking

Several marked trails lead through the park:

  • Almannagjá Gorge: The main path from the visitor center through the fissure — 30 min, flat, spectacular. The rock walls rise up to 40 meters
  • Öxarárfoss: A pretty waterfall, 15 min from the main path. Impressive icicles form in winter
  • Lögberg (Law Rock): The historic meeting place of the Alþingi — a plaque marks the spot. Stand here and imagine how hundreds of Vikings gathered here 1,000 years ago
  • Silfra Shore Path: From parking lot P5 along the Silfra Fissure — you can look into the crystal-clear water from above and watch the divers
  • Þingvallavatn Shore Path: Along Iceland's largest lake (84 km²), which lies in the rift. Quiet and little visited

Flora & Fauna

Þingvellir is located in a birch forest — one of Iceland's last natural forests (the Vikings cleared the rest for ships and houses). In autumn (September), the birches turn gold and red — a rare sight in Iceland. In Þingvallavatn, the Arctic char lives in four different forms — a biological phenomenon that attracts evolutionary biologists from around the world.

Tipp

Arrive as early as possible (before 9 AM) or in the late afternoon — between 10 AM and 3 PM, tourist buses flood the park. Parking lot P1 (at the visitor center) is closer to the Almannagjá gorge, P5 is closer to Silfra. For Silfra snorkeling: ALWAYS book the earliest slot of the day — fewer groups in the water and the morning light in the clear water is magical.

Geysir & Strokkur★★★

Geothermalgebiet: 24h, ganzjährig. Besucherzentrum: 10:00–20:00 (Sommer)
Eintritt frei! Parken kostenlos

The Geothermal Area Haukadalur

The word "Geysir" actually comes from Icelandic — the Great Geysir in the Haukadalur valley is the namesake of all geysers in the world. It first erupted in the 13th century and shot water up to 70 meters high. The eruptions were a wonder that attracted travelers from all over Europe for centuries. Today, it is largely inactive (last major eruption: 2000) — only occasionally bubbling melancholically.

The Geology Behind It

How does a geyser work? Deep beneath the surface, volcanic magma heats the groundwater. The hot water rises through a narrow channel. At the bottom, the pressure is so high that the water does not boil despite temperatures above 100°C. When the pressure reaches a critical point, the superheated water shoots explosively upwards — a steam explosion that occurs at Strokkur every 5–10 minutes. The phenomenon is rare worldwide: Of an estimated 1,000 geysers on Earth, only a few hundred are regularly active.

Strokkur — The Star

The real star is Geysir's neighbor: The Strokkur ("the churn") erupts every 5–10 minutes reliably, shooting a fountain of boiling water 15–30 meters high. The moment is magical every time: The water surface in the opening begins to pulse, bulges into a turquoise bubble — and then the fountain explodes with a mighty hiss into the sky. The best moment for photos is the split second when the bubble forms — turquoise and perfectly round.

Photo Tip: Stand on the south side (the side away from the parking lot) — there are fewer people, and you have the mountains in the background. Activate burst mode when the bubble bulges. Or: Shoot a video and extract the best single frame.

Exploring the Geothermal Area

Around the geysers stretches a steaming geothermal field with bubbling mud pots, hot springs in all colors (turquoise, orange, brown), and sulfur-yellow deposits. A circular path (20–30 min) leads past all the highlights:

  • Blesi: Two hot springs directly next to each other — one milky-turquoise (the silica reflects the light), the other clear and steaming
  • Litli Geysir: A small, gently bubbling geyser with a beautiful turquoise color
  • Smiður: A deep blue, bubbling spring in a natural basin
  • Konungshver: The "King's Spring," one of the hottest and most colorful in the area

The smell of sulfur (rotten eggs) is part of it — it is caused by hydrogen sulfide (H₂S) rising from the Earth's interior.

At the entrance, there is a visitor center with a café, restaurant, and souvenir shop. The café offers surprisingly good soups and sandwiches. The Geysir Center opposite offers a small exhibition on geothermal energy and an upscale shop with Icelandic design.

Achtung

The water in and around the hot springs is BOILING HOT (80–100°C)! Stick to the marked paths and barriers. Never put hands or feet in the springs — severe burns! Hold children's hands. The wind can blow the hot spray from Strokkur in your direction — position yourself downwind!

Gullfoss — The Golden Waterfall★★★

Ganzjährig, 24h. Café: 9:00–21:00 (Sommer), 10:00–17:00 (Winter)
Eintritt und Parken kostenlos

Iceland's Most Spectacular Waterfall

The Gullfoss ("Golden Waterfall") is one of the most powerful and beautiful waterfalls in Europe. The glacier river Hvítá (fed by the Langjökull glacier) plunges in two stages (11 + 21 meters = a total of 32 meters) into a 70-meter deep and 2.5 km long gorge — with a force that makes the ground vibrate beneath your feet. In summer, an average of 140 cubic meters of water per second flows over the edge (up to 2,000 m³/s in early summer during snowmelt!).

In sunshine, rainbows form in the spray — sometimes even double — and in winter, the surroundings transform into an unreal ice sculpture when the spray freezes on the rocks.

What makes Gullfoss unique: Due to the angled gorge, the water seems to disappear into nothing. The gorge runs at a right angle to the river, so you only see the massive abyss when you get closer. From a distance, it looks as if the river simply ends.

Two Viewpoints

  • Upper Platform: From the upper parking lot, 5 min walk. Overview of both stages from above. Best for photos with the mountains in the background. Accessible year-round
  • Lower Platform: From the lower parking lot (summer only), down the stairs. You stand almost at eye level with the water and feel the spray on your skin — the power of the water masses is overwhelming here. More spectacular, but you'll get wet! Often icy and closed in winter

The Story of Sigríður Tómasdóttir

In the early 20th century, British investors wanted to use Gullfoss for a hydroelectric power plant. They leased the waterfall from the landowner Tómas Tómasson. His daughter Sigríður Tómasdóttir was horrified and fought against the project for years. She threatened to throw herself into the waterfall, walked barefoot to Reykjavík (120 km!) to consult lawyers, and wrote petitions to the government. Her lawyer Sveinn Björnsson — later Iceland's first president — eventually won the case in court.

Sigríður is considered Iceland's first environmentalist. A memorial plaque at the waterfall and a bronze relief plate at the upper viewpoint honor her. Without her fight, Gullfoss would be a reservoir today.

The Hvítá River

Above Gullfoss, the Hvítá River offers rafting tours (class 2–3, suitable for beginners) and in winter, snowmobile tours on the Langjökull glacier, from which the river originates. A rafting tour (3–4h, from 13,990 ISK/93€) is a fantastic complementary experience to the Golden Circle.

Tipp

Bring waterproof clothing! The spray at the lower viewpoint soaks everything. In winter, the path to the lower viewpoint can be icy and closed. On sunny days: Have your camera ready for rainbows! The best time for rainbow photos is in the morning when the sun shines on the waterfall from the east.

Friðheimar — The Tomato Paradise★★

12:00–16:00 (Restaurant, ganzjährig). Reservierung empfohlen!
Tomatensuppe-Buffet: ca. 2.800 ISK (19€). Pferdeshow: inklusive

Tomatoes at the Arctic Circle

Between Geysir and Gullfoss lies one of the most surprising experiences of the Golden Circle: Friðheimar, a greenhouse where tomatoes are grown all year round thanks to geothermal energy — right under the Arctic Circle.

The Björnsson family has been running a farm here since 1946, and since the 1990s, around 370 tons of tomatoes are grown annually in heated greenhouses. The plants grow in Icelandic pumice stone soil, are pollinated by European bumblebees (specially imported!), and are supplied with geothermal hot water and artificial light. In winter, when it's dark outside, the greenhouses glow orange — a surreal sight in the barren landscape.

In the adjoining restaurant, the family serves a simple but wonderful menu: Tomato soup (the best you'll ever have — unlimited refills!), freshly baked bread, tomato salad, and a tomato cocktail (with or without vodka). All from their own harvest. Sitting in the greenhouse, surrounded by green tomato plants, while Iceland passes by outside — a unique experience.

Additionally, there is a horse show (in summer): Icelandic horses demonstrate their five gaits, including the famous Tölt. The show lasts about 30 minutes and is included in the entrance fee.

Tipp

Reserve a table at the restaurant — especially in summer, seats fill up quickly. The tomato soup is so good you'll want to refill multiple times. And buy a bottle of the homemade tomato ketchup or tomato sauce as a souvenir from the small shop — they are incredible.

Secret Lagoon & Kerið Crater★★

Secret Lagoon: 10:00–22:00 (Sommer), 11:00–20:00 (Winter). Kerið: Tageslicht, ganzjährig
Secret Lagoon: 3.500 ISK (23€). Kerið: 400 ISK (3€). Laugarvatn Fontana: 5.400 ISK (36€)

Secret Lagoon (Gamla Laugin)

The Secret Lagoon in Flúðir is Iceland's oldest thermal bath (built in 1891, reopened in 2014) and a wonderful alternative to the crowded Blue Lagoon. The natural pool (25 meters long) is fed by hot springs (38–40°C) and lies amidst steaming fields with a small geyser (Litli Geysir) that splashes every few minutes.

The atmosphere is more relaxed and authentic than in the Blue Lagoon: Wooden walkways lead around the natural pool, steam rises into the air, and in winter, you can watch northern lights over the warm water with a bit of luck. The water is not milky like in the Blue Lagoon but clear and slightly greenish — it contains natural minerals and silica.

Admission: 3,500 ISK (23€) — significantly cheaper than the Blue Lagoon. Perfect stop on the way back from the Golden Circle. Towels can be rented on-site (1,000 ISK).

Laugarvatn Fontana

Between Þingvellir and Geysir lies Laugarvatn Fontana — a modern geothermal spa on the shores of Lake Laugarvatn. The special feature: You can switch between the hot mineral baths and the natural lake (the lake has refreshing 10–15°C in summer). A steam cave (natural steam from the Earth's interior) and a demonstration of traditional Rúgbrauð baking (rye bread baked for 24 hours in the hot ground) are unique.

Kerið Crater

The Kerið is a roughly 3,000-year-old volcanic crater filled with a bright turquoise lake. The crater rings of red and black volcanic rock form a dramatic contrast to the aquamarine water — especially in sunlight. The crater is 55 meters deep, 270 meters wide, and 170 meters long.

Geologically, Kerið is unusual: Most volcanic craters are formed by explosions, but Kerið collapsed inward when the magma chamber emptied — similar to a crushed drink can. The water level in the crater fluctuates with the groundwater level, not with the rain.

A circular path (15 min, 900 meters) leads around the crater rim and offers views from different angles. A steep staircase leads down to the lake — down there, you stand amidst the red-black crater walls and look at the turquoise water. Occasionally, concerts are held in the crater in summer — the acoustics are exceptional.

Kerið is located directly on road 35, only 15 km north of Selfoss — an easy stop on the way back from the Golden Circle to Reykjavík.

Tipp

Visit Kerið in the late afternoon — then the sun is low and illuminates the red crater walls particularly dramatically. On cloudy days, the turquoise of the lake is less intense. The Secret Lagoon is most atmospheric in the evening — fewer visitors, steam in the dark, and in winter, northern lights over the warm water.

Practical Tips for the Golden Circle

Self-Drive vs. Organized Tour

OptionPrice (per person)AdvantagesDisadvantages
Rental CarProportionate 30–50€ (rental car) + fuelFlexible, own pace, visit insider tips, include Friðheimar/Secret Lagoon/KeriðNavigation, parking search, no guide
Bus Tour (Standard)From 8,000 ISK (53€)No stress, guide tells stories, hotel pickupFixed program, little time at each stop, large groups (40+ people)
Minibus TourFrom 15,000 ISK (100€)Small groups (12–19), more time, personal guideMore expensive, still a fixed program
Private TourFrom 80,000 ISK (533€) for 1–3 peopleCompletely individual, Super-Jeep, hidden spotsExpensive, only worth it for groups

The Optimal Order

Most tourist buses follow the route Þingvellir → Geysir → Gullfoss. If you're traveling by rental car, drive the route in reverse (Gullfoss → Geysir → Þingvellir) — then you'll always be a step ahead of the buses and encounter fewer crowds at the highlights.

Even better: Start before 8 AM in Reykjavík. The first buses arrive at the stops no earlier than 10 AM. Between 8 and 10 AM, you'll have Þingvellir almost to yourself — magical!

Overnight Instead of Day Trip

If you have more time, plan for one night in the Golden Circle region. Recommended accommodations:

  • Selfoss: The "capital of the south" with supermarkets, restaurants, and hotels. Good starting point for Golden Circle and South Coast. Hotel Selfoss (upscale) or Gesthús Selfoss (budget)
  • Flúðir: Small village next to the Secret Lagoon. Icelandair Hotel Flúðir or the cozy Syðra Langholt Guesthouse
  • Laugarvatn: On the lake of the same name between Þingvellir and Geysir. The Laugarvatn Fontana Hotel combines spa and accommodation
  • Camping: Þingvellir National Park has an excellent campsite (reserve!). There is also a campsite directly next to the geothermal field at Geysir

Food on the Go

  • Friðheimar: The famous tomato soup (unlimited refill!) — the best lunch stop on the route. Reservation recommended!
  • Geysir Bistro: At the Geysir visitor center, solid soups and sandwiches. Expensive, but the only option at Geysir
  • Gullfoss Café: Surprisingly good traditional lamb soup and cakes. Sits directly at the waterfall, overlooking the gorge
  • Efstidalur II: Farm restaurant between Þingvellir and Geysir with its own ice cream (the cows are visible next door). Burgers, pizza, and the best ice cream on the route
  • Self-Catering: Buy provisions in Selfoss (Bónus supermarket). At the highlights, there are only expensive cafés

Weather & Best Season

The Golden Circle is accessible year-round — the route runs on paved roads. In winter, individual sections may be temporarily closed during snowstorms (check road.is!). The best season:

  • Summer (Jun–Aug): Long days, everything green, all paths open. But: Crowds, especially on weekends
  • Autumn (Sep–Oct): Golden birches in Þingvellir, fewer tourists, first chances for northern lights. Perfect compromise!
  • Winter (Nov–Mar): Þingvellir in snow is magical, Gullfoss half-frozen spectacular, and you have the spots almost to yourself. But: Short days (4–5h of light), slippery paths, and the lower Gullfoss platform is often closed
  • Spring (Apr–May): Snowmelt makes Gullfoss particularly powerful (highest water level!). Paths can be muddy

Tipp

The Golden Circle can be perfectly combined with the first day of the South Coast route: Drive the Golden Circle and stay overnight in Selfoss or Hella — the next day, continue towards Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. This way, you save a day and a return trip to Reykjavík.

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