Westfjords & Snæfellsnes

The Westfjords (Vestfirðir) are Iceland's most remote and rugged region — a jagged peninsula in the northwest, stretching like an outstretched hand with deep fjords into the sea. Only about 10% of Iceland visitors come here, and that's precisely what makes it so appealing: no tourist buses, no crowded parking lots, just you, the road, and Iceland's wildest nature.

The Westfjords are geologically the oldest part of Iceland — the rock is up to 16 million years old, while the rest of the island is at most 20 million years old. No active volcanoes, no geysers, but: dramatic cliffs that drop hundreds of meters vertically into the sea, solitary fjords where seals lounge on the rocks, and flora found nowhere else in Iceland.

Arrival & Logistics

The Westfjords require planning:

• Roads: Many roads are unpaved, single-lane, and winding. A 4x4 is recommended (not mandatory, but much more comfortable). Speed: Often only 30–50 km/h possible
• Distances: Reykjavík → Ísafjörður: 460 km (6h via Hólmavík) or Baldur ferry from Stykkishólmur to Brjánslækur + 2h drive
• Flight: Domestic flight Reykjavík → Ísafjörður (40 min., from 11,000 ISK/73€) — the fastest option
• Time required: At least 3–4 days for the highlights, 5–7 days for the entire region
• Season: Many roads are only passable June to September. In winter, the Westfjords are often cut off from the outside world for weeks

The Most Beautiful Waterfall in Iceland?

The Dynjandi (also called Fjallfoss) is considered by many to be the most beautiful waterfall in Iceland — and it is so remote that only a few visitors get to see it. It plunges down a 100-meter-high, fan-shaped cascade down a mountainside, spreading out from the top (30 meters wide) to the bottom (60 meters wide) — like a gigantic bridal veil of water.

The name Dynjandi means "the Thunderous," and from afar, you hear the roar before you see the waterfall. When you round the last curve of the fjord road and the Dynjandi suddenly appears before you — this mix of surprise and awe is indescribable.

The ascent to the Dynjandi passes by six smaller waterfalls (each with its own name: Háifoss, Úðafoss, Göngufoss, Hundafoss, Strompgljúfrafoss, Bæjarfoss), creating a waterfall ensemble that is unique. The path is steep but well-marked (20–30 min. to the top). Once at the top, you stand next to the upper edge and look out over the fjord — breathtaking.

Puffins to the Horizon

Látrabjarg is Europe's westernmost point (24°32'W) and one of the largest bird cliffs in the world: 14 km long, up to 441 meters high cliffs that drop vertically into the sea. Millions of seabirds nest here, and the experience is overwhelming — the noise, the movement, the smell, the sheer scale of the colony.

The puffins are the main reason for the visit: Nowhere else in the world can you get so close to these adorable birds. The birds nest in burrows in the cliff edge and are accustomed to humans — they often sit just 1–2 meters away and allow themselves to be photographed in peace. With their colorful beaks, clumsy gait, and rapidly flapping short wings, they are irresistible.

In addition to puffins, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, gannets, and fulmars also nest here — a total of millions of breeding pairs.

Best time: Mid-May to mid-August (breeding season). The puffins are most active in the morning and evening. The journey is long and arduous (50 km gravel road from Patreksfjörður), but the experience is absolutely worth it.

Heroic Story: The Rescue of the Dhoon

In 1947, the British freighter Dhoon stranded at the foot of the Látrabjarg cliffs. The farmers from the surrounding farms rappelled down the 200-meter-high cliffs in a daring rescue operation and saved all 12 crew members — in darkness and storm, with only ropes and raw muscle power. The rescue became a symbol of Icelandic community spirit. A monument at the cliff edge commemorates it.

Iceland's Ultimate Wilderness Experience

The Hornstrandir Nature Reserve at the far northwest tip of the Westfjords is the most remote inhabited — no, uninhabited — place in Iceland. Since the 1950s, no one has lived here permanently: The last residents gave up when the living conditions became too harsh. Since then, nature has reclaimed the land.

The result: A pristine wilderness where Arctic foxes come within arm's length (they have no fear of humans here!), the cliffs are covered with seabirds, and the silence is broken only by the wind and waves. There are no roads, no houses, no infrastructure — only marked hiking trails and the remains of abandoned farms.

The Arctic foxes (Alopex lagopus) are so tame here that they are considered Iceland's best wildlife experience. The shy animals, which flee immediately elsewhere, lie by hiking trails and watch hikers curiously. The population is healthy and protected — hunting is prohibited in the reserve.

Hiking in Hornstrandir

The reserve is only accessible by boat — ferries from Ísafjörður (2–3h) bring hikers to various landing points. The most popular multi-day hikes:

• Hornvík Bay: 2–3 days. The most spectacular bay with the Hornbjarg cliffs (534m). Puffins, Arctic foxes, absolute solitude
• Hesteyri: 1–2 days. Abandoned village with restored houses. The most accessible part of Hornstrandir. Day tours possible
• Complete Crossing: 5–7 days. For experienced trekkers with tent, GPS, and self-sufficiency

Culture in Seclusion

Ísafjörður (population: 2,600) is the largest town in the Westfjords and is dramatically situated on a sandbank in the Skutulsfjörður, surrounded by steep mountains and fjords. The town has a surprisingly vibrant cultural scene for its size:

• Westfjords Heritage Museum (Byggðasafn Vestfjarða): In one of Iceland's oldest houses (1734–1784). Fishing and maritime history of the region. Admission: 1,500 ISK (10€)
• Edinborg Cultural House: Concerts, exhibitions, café. The cultural heart of the Westfjords
• Aldrei fór ég suður Festival: "I Never Went South" — Iceland's coolest music festival (Easter). Free! Icelandic bands play in a fish hall. Free entry, priceless atmosphere

From Ísafjörður, boat tours depart to the Jökulfirðir fjord (seals, seabirds) and the Vigur islet (puffins, eider duck farm). The town is also the starting point for Hornstrandir expeditions.

Restaurants: Tjöruhúsið (the best fish restaurant in the Westfjords — fresh catch in cast iron pans, unlimited buffet, in a historic wooden house by the harbor) and Húsið (fine dining with fjord view).

Iceland in Miniature

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula west of Reykjavík (2h drive) is often referred to as "Iceland in Miniature" — on just 90 km in length, you find everything that defines the island: a glacier (Snæfellsjökull), dramatic cliffs, black beaches, lava fields, hot springs, fishing villages, and a mystical atmosphere.

The peninsula is less crowded than the Golden Circle or the South Coast and is perfect as a day trip from Reykjavík or as a 2-day addition to the Ring Road. Route 54 circles the entire peninsula (approx. 180 km).

The Most Photographed Mountain in Iceland

The Kirkjufell (463 m) near Grundarfjörður is Iceland's most photographed mountain — and you recognize it immediately: The symmetrical, pointed shape resembles a church spire (hence the name: "Church Mountain") or an arrowhead. It stands alone on the fjord's shore and is perfectly photogenic from almost every side.

The most famous viewpoint: From the Kirkjufellsfoss, a small, three-tiered waterfall directly opposite. The classic photo shows the waterfall in the foreground and the Kirkjufell behind it — one of Iceland's most iconic images. In winter, with Northern Lights over the mountain, this motif becomes a dream image for every landscape photographer.

Game of Thrones fans know the Kirkjufell as the "Arrowhead Mountain" — beyond the Wall, where the army of the dead marches. The Hound (Sandor Clegane) sees the mountain in a vision in the fire.

The mountain is climbable (463 m, 1.5–2h), but the ascent is steep and partially exposed — only for experienced hikers in good weather! The view from the summit over the fjord and the peninsula is breathtaking.

Jules Verne's Entrance to the Center of the Earth

The Snæfellsjökull is a 1,446-meter-high stratovolcano whose summit is covered by a glacier cap. In clear weather, it is visible from Reykjavík (120 km away) — a majestic cone on the horizon. The volcano became world-famous as the entrance to the center of the Earth in Jules Verne's novel "Journey to the Center of the Earth" (1864).

The National Park (established in 2001) encompasses the western tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and offers:

• Glacier hike: Guided tours on the Snæfellsjökull (6–8h, demanding, only in summer). From 25,000 ISK (167€)
• Vatnshellir Lava Cave: An 8,000-year-old lava cave that can be explored on a guided 45-minute tour. Stairs lead 35 meters down, where bizarre lava formations, stalactites, and absolute darkness await. 3,750 ISK (25€)
• Djúpalónssandur: A black pebble beach with four "lifting stones" that fishermen used to test their strength to join a boat crew: Fullsterkur (155 kg), Hálfsterkur (100 kg), Hálfdrættingur (54 kg), and Amlóði (23 kg). Rusting shipwreck parts on the beach remind of the British trawler Epine, which stranded here in 1948
• Lóndrangar: Two striking basalt rock pinnacles (75 and 61 m) that rise like castle towers from the sea — remnants of a former volcanic crater eroded by the sea. A short hiking trail leads to a viewpoint

Arnarstapi — Cliffs & Basalt Art

The tiny village of Arnarstapi on the south coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is famous for its dramatic coastline: basalt rock formations, natural rock arches, sea caves, and a rocky coast where the surf spectacularly crashes. A huge stone sculpture of Bárður Snæfellsás — the mythical half-giant and guardian spirit of the peninsula — stands at the harbor.

The coastal walk from Arnarstapi to Hellnar (2.5 km, 45 min.) is one of Iceland's most beautiful short hikes: Along the cliffs, past rock arches, seabird colonies, and a natural basalt column cathedral. In Hellnar at the endpoint awaits the Fjöruhúsið Café — one of Iceland's most atmospheric cafés, right by the surf with a view of the cliffs.

Búðakirkja — The Black Church

The Búðakirkja is a small, completely black-painted church (1848, renovated 1987) standing alone on a lava field overlooking the sea and the Snæfellsjökull. It is one of the most photographed motifs in Iceland — the black church against the green moss, the blue sea, and the glacier cone in the background. In winter with snow or Northern Lights: Absolutely surreal.

The church is occasionally open to visitors (the white interior contrasts dramatically with the black exterior), and it is a popular place for Icelandic weddings.

Ytri-Tunga — Seals on the Beach

At Ytri-Tunga on the south coast of the peninsula lives a colony of seals that regularly sunbathe on the rocks. From June to August, they are best observed — bring binoculars and keep a distance (50m). The beach is golden (not black!) and one of the few sandy beaches in West Iceland.

Westfjords — Logistics & Planning

Baldur Ferry — The Shortcut

The Baldur Ferry connects Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula with Brjánslækur in the Westfjords (2.5h journey, with a stop on the tiny island of Flatey). The ferry saves hundreds of kilometers of driving and offers spectacular views over the Breiðafjörður. Booking recommended, especially with a car (approx. 6,000 ISK/40€ per person, 10,000 ISK/67€ per car). The island Flatey (3 inhabitants in winter, about 15 in summer) is a gem: colorful wooden houses, a tiny church with modern frescoes by Baltasar Samper, and absolute silence. You can disembark on Flatey on the way there and reboard on the return trip.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula — Planning

• Day trip from Reykjavík: Possible, but strenuous (2h drive each way + 180 km peninsula circuit). Plan 12–14 hours
• Recommended: 2 days/1 night — Overnight in Grundarfjörður (near Kirkjufell), Ólafsvík, or Stykkishólmur. This way, you have time for the highlights without stress
• Accommodation: Hotel Framnes in Grundarfjörður (from 130€, with Kirkjufell view!), Hótel Búðir (luxury, from 280€, next to the black church), Fosshotel Stykkishólmur (from 150€)
• Dining: Bjargarsteinn Mathús in Grundarfjörður (fine dining with fjord view), Sjávarpakkhúsið in Stykkishólmur (fish restaurant in the old packing house)

Riding Course: Icelandic Horses on Snæfellsnes

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is one of the best places for horseback riding tours on Icelandic horses. Several farms offer tours — from one-hour rides (from 9,000 ISK/60€) to multi-day treks. You ride through lava fields, along the coast, and through green valleys, and the horses master the famous Tölt — the incredibly comfortable four-beat gait where you sit almost motionless in the saddle.

Recommended providers: Stóri-Kambur (near Grundarfjörður) and Lýsuhóll (in the southwest of the peninsula, with a hot spring!). No prior experience is necessary for short tours — the horses are good-natured and sure-footed.

Stykkishólmur — The Gateway to the Westfjords

Stykkishólmur (population: 1,200) on the north coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a picturesque fishing village with colorful houses on a hill, a sheltered harbor, and views of the islands of the Breiðafjörður. Fans know it as the filming location for "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty" (2013) with Ben Stiller — the scene where Walter Mitty climbs the lighthouse and enjoys the view over the fjord was filmed here.

In the Norska Húsið (Norwegian House, 1832) is the regional museum, and the Vatnshellir Library is one of Iceland's most beautiful small libraries. From Stykkishólmur, kayak tours start between the islands of the Breiðafjörður — one of the most peaceful experiences in Iceland.

Flatey — The Forgotten Island

The Baldur Ferry from Stykkishólmur to the Westfjords stops on the way at the tiny Flatey — a 2 km long island in the Breiðafjörður with only 5 (!) year-round residents. In summer, a few visitors come to wander through the meadows with wildflowers, admire the ceiling paintings in the tiny church (painted by the Catalan artist Baltasar Samper, 1962), and view the Flateyjarbók in the historic library — one of Iceland's most significant medieval manuscripts (the original is in Reykjavík, but a reproduction is displayed here).

Flatey has no cars, no Wi-Fi, and no supermarket. You can stay at the charming Hótel Flatey (the only accommodation, about 200€/night, reserve months in advance!) with its own restaurant serving local fish, mussels, and lamb. A stay on Flatey feels like time has stood still — the perfect contrast to the rest of an Iceland trip.