North Iceland

North Iceland is the counterbalance to the touristy south. Fewer visitors, rougher landscapes, but at least as spectacular. The region stretches around the Eyjafjörður (Iceland's longest fjord, 60 km) and the Mývatn Lake — a geological wonderland.

Getting There: From Reykjavík via the Ring Road to Akureyri is 389 km (about 5h). Alternatively: Domestic flight from Reykjavík to Akureyri (45 min., from €67). The north can ideally be included as part of a Ring Road tour or as a standalone 3–5-day tour from Akureyri.

The Diamond Circle route connects the highlights of the north: Húsavík → Ásbyrgi → Dettifoss → Mývatn → Goðafoss on a roughly 250 km loop. It is North Iceland's answer to the Golden Circle and far less crowded.

The north also has a climatic difference: It is drier than the south (the rain usually comes from the southwest), but colder in winter. However: More sunshine hours in summer and more stable weather. The midnight sun is even more dramatic in Akureyri (65°N) than in Reykjavík — the sun doesn't actually set in June.

Iceland's Most Charming Small Town

Akureyri (population: 19,000) is situated at the end of the Eyjafjörður, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, and has the charm of a Nordic picture-book town. Despite its size, it offers surprisingly much: Good restaurants, a botanical garden (the northernmost in the world!), a vibrant art scene, and an excellent ski area in winter.

A lovable detail: The traffic lights in Akureyri show a red heart instead of a red circle — introduced in 2008 during the financial crisis to lift spirits and remind people that everything will be alright. It became so popular that it stayed.

Sights

• Botanical Garden (Lystigarður Akureyrar): The northernmost botanical garden in the world (65°41'N) — and surprisingly lush. Over 7,000 plant species from around the world, including species from the Arctic, Himalayas, and Alps. Open June–September, free. The café in the garden serves cake and coffee in an idyllic setting
• Akureyrarkirkja: The church, consecrated in 1940, was designed by Guðjón Samúelsson (the same architect as the Hallgrímskirkja). The stained glass windows are from the famous English company Coventry Cathedral Studios — one window depicts the crucifixion, another originally from the old Coventry Cathedral survived its bombing in World War II. From the steps (112 steps), there is a beautiful view over the fjord
• Hof Cultural Center: Modern building at the harbor with concerts, exhibitions, and the city library. The panoramic view over the Eyjafjörður from the terrace is fantastic — a good place to enjoy the view with a coffee
• Brynja Ice Cream Parlor: The most famous ice cream parlor in Iceland — the soft serve with chocolate coating is cult! Since 1939, Icelanders from all over the country have been flocking here. In summer, there's a line, but it moves quickly. About 600 ISK (€4)
• Christmas House (Jólahúsið): A quirky, lovingly curated year-round Christmas shop, offering over 2,000 Christmas items, Icelandic candles, ornaments, and decorations. The 13 Icelandic Yule Lads (Jólasveinar) are lovingly explained here — they are not friendly Santa clones but mischievous troll children with names like "Door-Slammer," "Spoon-Licker," and "Candle-Stealer." Even if you're not usually a Christmas fan — this house is an experience
• Nonnahús: Birthplace of children's book author Jón Sveinsson (1857–1944), who became famous under the pseudonym "Nonni." His books have been translated into 40 languages. The small museum showcases his life and works

Whale Watching from Akureyri

Less known than Húsavík but also excellent: Whale watching tours depart from the harbor in Akureyri into the Eyjafjörður. The fjord location offers calmer seas than in Húsavík, and the sighting rate is over 95% in summer. Mainly humpback whales feeding in the sheltered fjord. Providers: Elding and Ambassador, from 12,000 ISK (€80).

Hlíðarfjall Ski Area

Only 10 minutes from Akureyri: The best ski area in Iceland with 23 slopes (up to 1,000m high), lift system, and often better snow than in the Alps. Season: November–May (sometimes until June!). Day pass: about 6,900 ISK (€46). In spring, you can combine skiing under the midnight sun with whale watching the next morning — where else can you do that?

A Geological Wonderland

The Mývatn ("Midge Lake") and its surroundings are the most geologically active area in Iceland — an open-air museum of volcanism that is unparalleled. In a small space, you'll find pseudo-craters, lava formations, steaming fumaroles, mud pots, and a thermal bath that rivals the Blue Lagoon.

The lake itself, with an area of 37 km², is the fourth largest lake in Iceland and surprisingly shallow (maximum 4.5 m). It was formed during a lava eruption about 2,300 years ago and lies in a zone of extreme volcanic activity — the Krafla Fires (1975–1984, nine eruptions in nine years) are vividly remembered.

Mývatn is also a paradise for ornithologists: Over 115 bird species live here, including 15 duck species — more duck species than anywhere else on Earth. The lake has been protected under the Ramsar Convention as a wetland of international importance.

The Highlights in a Clockwise Direction

Skútustaðagígar (Pseudo-craters)

On the southern shore of the lake. These crater-shaped hills look like volcanic craters but are not true volcanoes. They were formed about 2,300 years ago when glowing lava flowed over a marshy lake: The trapped water explosively evaporated, blowing the overlying lava upwards, creating these crater shapes. A well-marked circular trail (30 min.) leads through the green-covered pseudo-craters and offers wonderful views over the lake.

Dimmuborgir (Dark Castles)

On the eastern shore of the lake: A surreal labyrinth of lava columns, arches, and caves that looks like a ruined city built by giants. The formations were created about 2,300 years ago when a lava lake lay over a water-rich area: The steam shot through the lava upwards and left these bizarre columns and tunnels upon solidification.

According to legend, the 13 Icelandic Yule Lads (Jólasveinar) live here — mischievous troll children who descend into the valley one by one in the 13 nights before Christmas to cause mischief. Their names reveal their character: Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote Clod), Giljagaur (Gully Gawk), Stúfur (Stubby), Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker), Pottasleikir (Pot-Licker), Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker), Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer), Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler), Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper), Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper), Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer), Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook), and Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer).

Several hiking trails (30–60 min.): The Church Trail (Kirkjuhringur, 30 min.) leads to the natural lava cathedral "Kirkjan" — an arch that looks like the nave of a Gothic cathedral.

Grjótagjá — The Game of Thrones Cave

A small lava cave with a hot spring inside — known as a filming location for Game of Thrones (the romantic scene between Jon Snow and Ygritte in season 3). The cave is located in a fissure of the Krafla Rift Zone, and the turquoise water used to glow magically in the darkness of the cave.

Bathing is unfortunately prohibited! Until the 1970s, Grjótagjá was a popular bathing spot, but the Krafla Fires (1975–1984) heated the water to over 50°C — too hot for bathing. Since then, it has cooled down to about 43–46°C, but bathing remains prohibited for safety reasons. However, you can enter the cave and admire the glowing water — the sight is magical, especially when sunlight falls through the cracks in the ceiling.

Námaskarð / Hverir — Mars on Earth

An alien-looking geothermal field at the foot of Námafjall Mountain (482 m), right on the Ring Road east of Mývatn. The landscape is so unreal that NASA actually tested Mars rovers here. What you see:

• Mud pots (solfataras): Gray-brown, boiling mud bubbles and splashes upwards at regular intervals — like a pot of soup on the stove
• Fumaroles: Hissing steam columns shooting out of cracks in the ground with pressure — they reach temperatures of over 200°C
• Sulfur deposits: Bright yellow, orange, and white crystals cover the rocks like alien frost
• The smell: Intense hydrogen sulfide (H₂S) — "rotten eggs" on steroids. You get used to it, but the first few minutes are intense

A circular trail (20–30 min.) leads through the area. Free and accessible year-round. The ground is hot enough in some places to melt shoe soles — stick to the marked paths!

Krafla — Volcanic Zone & Víti Crater

The Krafla Volcano (818 m) northeast of Mývatn is one of Iceland's most active volcanoes. The last eruption series — the Krafla Fires (Mývatn Fires) — lasted from 1975 to 1984 with nine individual eruptions. Lava fountains shot up to 100 meters high, and lava flows threatened the Krafla Geothermal Power Plant (which was still operated — Icelandic calmness!).

The highlight is the Víti Crater (Icelandic for "Hell"): A 320-meter-wide explosion crater formed during an eruption in 1724 and now filled with a bright milky-green lake. The color varies from turquoise to emerald green depending on sunlight and season. A hiking trail leads around the crater rim (20 min.).

On the way to the Krafla summit, you pass the Leirhnjúkur Lava Field — a still-steaming, only a few decades-old lava field with bizarre shapes, hot springs, and a Mars-like atmosphere. The hike through the lava field (4 km, 1–1.5h) is surreal: In some places, you can feel the warmth through your shoe soles.

Mývatn Nature Baths

The Mývatn Nature Baths (Jarðböðin við Mývatn) are North Iceland's answer to the Blue Lagoon — only without the mass tourism and with more authenticity. The milky-blue, mineral-rich water (36–40°C) lies in a steaming lava field with views over the lake and surrounding mountains.

The water contains natural minerals and sulfur, which are beneficial for the skin. There are two pools (different temperatures), a steam bath in a natural cave, and a terrace with drink service.

Entrance: 5,900 ISK (€39) — significantly cheaper than the Blue Lagoon. In winter: The combination of hot water, steam, and northern lights over the lake is one of the most unforgettable experiences in Iceland.

Where Iceland Became Christian

The Goðafoss ("Waterfall of the Gods") is one of Iceland's most beautiful and historically significant waterfalls. The Skjálfandafljót River plunges here in a 30-meter-wide semicircle 12 meters deep — the shape resembles a horseshoe, and the roaring water forms permanent rainbows in the sunshine.

The Story Behind It

The name dates back to 1000 AD: When the Alþingi in Þingvellir decided that Iceland should become Christian, the law speaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði faced a dilemma. He was himself a pagan and priest of the old faith. After his famous meditation under an animal skin, he announced the decision for Christianity — a compromise: Privately, one could still worship the old gods, but publicly, Christianity prevailed.

On his way home, Þorgeir is said to have stopped at this waterfall and thrown his pagan god statues into the waters — a symbolic break with the old religion, making the waterfall the "Waterfall of the Gods." Whether it really happened this way is historically disputed (the saga sources are unclear), but the story makes Goðafoss the spiritual birthplace of Christian Iceland.

Viewpoints

• East side: From the parking lot on the Ring Road, 5 min. walk. Frontal view of the waterfall. Most popular — and most crowded. The platform offers the classic photo view of the semicircle
• West side: From the second parking lot (access via a gravel road), 5 min. walk. Side view, fewer tourists, dramatic view into the gorge. Here you can get closer to the water — and on clear days, see into the depths of the turquoise pools below the waterfall

Goðafoss is located directly on the Ring Road, 30 min. east of Akureyri — the perfect stop on the way to Mývatn.

In Winter

In winter, Goðafoss transforms into an ice sculpture: The edges freeze, icicles hang from the cliffs, and the waterfall rushes through ice formations. The combination of white ice and turquoise water is breathtaking — and in winter, you often have the waterfall to yourself. Caution: The paths can be icy.

Raw Natural Power

The Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe — measured by water volume. On average, 500 cubic meters per second of the gray-brown, glacier-fed waters of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum thunder 44 meters down and 100 meters wide. The force is so immense that the ground vibrates underfoot, the spray reaches hundreds of meters, and on windless days, a permanent cloud hangs over the canyon.

In early summer during snowmelt, the flow rate increases to up to 1,500 m³/s — three times the normal amount. The ground literally shakes, and the spray is so dense that you can barely see the waterfall.

It's no wonder director Ridley Scott chose Dettifoss as the opening scene for "Prometheus" (2012) — the waterfall embodies the raw, uncontrollable power of nature like no other place on Earth. In the scene, an alien "Engineer" sacrifices himself at the waterfall, sowing the seed of life on Earth.

The Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon

Dettifoss is part of the Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon — a 25 km long, up to 100-meter-deep gorge that the glacier river Jökulsá á Fjöllum has carved into the basalt rock over millennia. In the same canyon, there are two other impressive waterfalls:

• Selfoss: 2 km upstream from Dettifoss. 11 meters high but 100 meters wide — a broad, fan-shaped cascade that is as elegant and photographically impressive as Dettifoss itself. Accessible from the west side parking lot (20 min. walk)
• Hafragilsfoss: 2 km downstream from Dettifoss. 27 meters deep in a narrow, wild romantic gorge. Less visited and harder to access, but spectacular for photographers

Two Access Points

• East side (Route 864): Gravel road, rough (30 km, about 30 min. from the Ring Road). But the viewpoint is closer to the waterfall and more dramatic — you stand almost at eye level with the edge and feel the vibrations. 2WD possible with caution, but drive slowly!
• West side (Route 862): Paved, more convenient (24 km from the Ring Road). Viewpoint a bit further away, but with access to Selfoss and a better-developed hiking trail. Parking and WC available

From the parking lot, it's about 15–20 minutes walk to the waterfall. There are hardly any railings at the edge — be careful on the slippery rock!

The Best Whale Watching in Iceland

Húsavík (population: 2,300) on the Skjálfandi Fjord is the whale watching capital of Europe — and internationally known after the film "Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga" (2020, starring Will Ferrell and Rachel McAdams). The chances of whale sightings are 97–99% in summer, and the variety is unique:

• Humpback whales: The stars, regularly with spectacular breaches and tail fluke shows. Almost guaranteed from May to October
• Minke whales: Smaller (7–10m), but frequent and curious. Sometimes approach the boat
• Blue whales: The largest animals ever to have lived on Earth (up to 33m, 150 tons)! Húsavík is one of the best places in the world to see them — especially from June to August, when they feed in the nutrient-rich waters off North Iceland
• White-beaked dolphins: In large groups, playful, jumping alongside the boat
• Sei whales, fin whales, porpoises: Occasionally sighted

Providers

• North Sailing: The pioneer and most environmentally conscious provider. Traditional oak sailing ships, restored former fishing boats. 3h tour from 12,490 ISK (€83). Part of the fleet runs on electric propulsion (CO₂-neutral!) and sets sail when the wind is right. Atmospheric and evocative — a completely different experience than on a modern motorboat
• Gentle Giants: Large and small boats, also RIB speedboats for close-ups and adrenaline kicks. From 11,990 ISK (€80). The RIB tour (1.5h, from 17,990 ISK/€120) brings you closer to the whales — you feel the spray when a humpback whale surfaces next to you

Húsavík Whale Museum (Hvalasafnið á Húsavík)

The Whale Museum at the harbor is one of the best of its kind worldwide — with life-sized skeletons of blue whale (25m!), sperm whale, narwhal, orca, and over a dozen other species hanging from the ceiling. The exhibition explains whale biology, communication (you can hear whale songs!), the history of whaling, and modern whale conservation. Interactive stations and a children's program make it an experience for families too.

The Town

Húsavík itself is a pretty little fishing village with colorful houses, a picturesque wooden church (1907), and a lively culinary scene for its size. The Gamli Baukur at the harbor serves excellent fish (the fish & chips are legendary), and the Salka Restaurant offers fine dining with harbor views. For Eurovision fans: The Exploration Museum has a small exhibition about the film.

Iceland's Most Charming Fishing Village

Siglufjörður (population: 1,300) is located in a secluded fjord at the northern tip of the Tröllaskagi Peninsula and is one of Iceland's most charming and historically significant villages. In the 1940s and 1950s, Siglufjörður was the herring capital of the North Atlantic — up to 10,000 seasonal workers flocked to the tiny place to process the "silver of the sea."

Herring Museum (Síldarminjasafnið)

The award-winning Herring Museum (European Museum of the Year Award 2015) tells the fascinating story of the Icelandic herring boom in three historic buildings at the harbor:

• Róaldsbrakki: An originally restored girls' dormitory where the young women who salted the herring by hand were housed (the "herring girls" — síldarkerlingar). The work was brutal: 14-hour shifts in cold and wet conditions, hands cracked from salt and fish blood
• Grjóteyri: A restored herring factory with functioning machines, salt vats, and the authentic smell of fish and salt
• Boathouse: Original ships and fishing equipment

The museum is remarkably lively — former herring workers sometimes personally share their stories. The Herring Evening (summer, Wednesdays) with music, dance, and tasting of pickled herring is a special experience.

The Tröllaskagi Peninsula

The drive from Akureyri to Siglufjörður over the Tröllaskagi Peninsula (Route 76/82) is one of the most beautiful routes in Iceland: Dramatic mountains, deep fjords, narrow tunnels, and untouched nature. Stops in Dalvík (hiking and skiing destination) and Ólafsfjörður (tiny fishing village with natural beauty) are worthwhile along the way.

Hoofprint of Odin's Horse

The Ásbyrgi Canyon is one of Iceland's most impressive geological formations — a horseshoe-shaped canyon, 3.5 km long and 1 km wide, with up to 100-meter-high vertical rock walls. In the middle, a rock plateau called Eyjan (the "Island") divides the canyon into two halves.

Mythology vs. Geology

Norse legend says that Sleipnir — the eight-legged horse of the god Odin — placed its hoof here, leaving the massive imprint. When viewed from above, the horseshoe shape of the canyon is indeed strikingly clear — no wonder the Vikings saw a divine explanation here.

The geological explanation is almost as spectacular: Massive glacial floods (Jökulhlaup) at the end of the last ice age (about 8,000–10,000 years ago) carved the canyon into the basalt rock. The floods — triggered by subglacial volcanic eruptions under the Vatnajökull — were so powerful that they created this massive canyon in just a few days. A second event about 3,000 years ago expanded the canyon to its current form.

Ásbyrgi is also considered in Icelandic folklore as the capital of the Huldufólk (hidden people/elves). Many Icelanders report a special energy in this place — and the birch forest at the bottom of the canyon indeed has an almost mystical atmosphere.

Nature in the Canyon

The floor of the canyon is covered with a lush birch forest — a rare sight in barren Iceland, where the Vikings cleared almost all the trees. The sheltered location between the high rock walls creates a microclimate that is significantly warmer and less windy than the surroundings. The acoustics are amazing: Birds sing, wind rustles through the trees, and the rock walls echo every sound. A place of silence and power.

Hiking

• Botnstjörn Lake: At the end of the canyon, 30 min. walk. Quiet lake with rock walls — meditatively calm. The rocks reflect in the water
• Eyjan Rock Plateau: Climb via a steep staircase. Panoramic view over the entire canyon and the birch forest
• Klappir Trail: From the visitor center through the eastern half of the canyon (2 km, 45 min.)

North Iceland's Grand Tour

The Diamond Circle is North Iceland's answer to the Golden Circle — a roughly 250 km long circuit from Akureyri or Húsavík that connects the main highlights of the north. The name was chosen in reference to the Golden Circle, but the route is far less crowded and offers a wilder, rougher nature experience.

The Route (Recommended Order)

Time Required: At least 2 full days, ideally 3 days. Only possible as a day trip if you skip whale watching and half of the Mývatn highlights.

Practical Tips for North Iceland

• Accommodation: Akureyri has the most options. Directly at Mývatn: Hotel Laxá (upscale, from €200), Dimmuborgir Guesthouse (mid-range, from €120), Hlíð Campsite (€20). In Húsavík: Fosshotel Húsavík (from €150)
• Food: RUB23 in Akureyri (creative international cuisine), Strikið in Akureyri (panoramic view), Gamli Baukur in Húsavík (fish & chips), Vogafjós Cowshed Café at Mývatn (you eat next to the cows — seriously, the cows stand behind a glass wall while you have breakfast)
• Hofsós Pool: 30 minutes west of Akureyri lies perhaps the most beautiful swimming pool in Iceland: An infinity pool with views over the Skagafjörður fjord to the mountains on the other side. Entrance: about 1,000 ISK (€7). Absolute insider tip!
• Weather: The north is drier than the south, but colder in winter. Snowfall possible from October to April. The mountain passes (e.g., Öxnadalur) can be dangerous in snow — check road.is!