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Mývatn — Lake of Midges

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Mývatn — Lake of Midges★★★

Mývatn Nature Baths: 12:00–22:00 (ganzjährig). Krafla/Námaskarð: 24h, ganzjährig
See und Geothermalfelder: kostenlos. Mývatn Nature Baths: 5.900 ISK (39€)

A Geological Wonderland

The Mývatn ("Midge Lake") and its surroundings are the most geologically active area in Iceland — an open-air museum of volcanism that is unparalleled. In a small space, you'll find pseudo-craters, lava formations, steaming fumaroles, mud pots, and a thermal bath that rivals the Blue Lagoon.

The lake itself, with an area of 37 km², is the fourth largest lake in Iceland and surprisingly shallow (maximum 4.5 m). It was formed during a lava eruption about 2,300 years ago and lies in a zone of extreme volcanic activity — the Krafla Fires (1975–1984, nine eruptions in nine years) are vividly remembered.

Mývatn is also a paradise for ornithologists: Over 115 bird species live here, including 15 duck species — more duck species than anywhere else on Earth. The lake has been protected under the Ramsar Convention as a wetland of international importance.

The Highlights in a Clockwise Direction

Skútustaðagígar (Pseudo-craters)

On the southern shore of the lake. These crater-shaped hills look like volcanic craters but are not true volcanoes. They were formed about 2,300 years ago when glowing lava flowed over a marshy lake: The trapped water explosively evaporated, blowing the overlying lava upwards, creating these crater shapes. A well-marked circular trail (30 min.) leads through the green-covered pseudo-craters and offers wonderful views over the lake.

Dimmuborgir (Dark Castles)

On the eastern shore of the lake: A surreal labyrinth of lava columns, arches, and caves that looks like a ruined city built by giants. The formations were created about 2,300 years ago when a lava lake lay over a water-rich area: The steam shot through the lava upwards and left these bizarre columns and tunnels upon solidification.

According to legend, the 13 Icelandic Yule Lads (Jólasveinar) live here — mischievous troll children who descend into the valley one by one in the 13 nights before Christmas to cause mischief. Their names reveal their character: Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote Clod), Giljagaur (Gully Gawk), Stúfur (Stubby), Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker), Pottasleikir (Pot-Licker), Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker), Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer), Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler), Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper), Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper), Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer), Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook), and Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer).

Several hiking trails (30–60 min.): The Church Trail (Kirkjuhringur, 30 min.) leads to the natural lava cathedral "Kirkjan" — an arch that looks like the nave of a Gothic cathedral.

Grjótagjá — The Game of Thrones Cave

A small lava cave with a hot spring inside — known as a filming location for Game of Thrones (the romantic scene between Jon Snow and Ygritte in season 3). The cave is located in a fissure of the Krafla Rift Zone, and the turquoise water used to glow magically in the darkness of the cave.

Bathing is unfortunately prohibited! Until the 1970s, Grjótagjá was a popular bathing spot, but the Krafla Fires (1975–1984) heated the water to over 50°C — too hot for bathing. Since then, it has cooled down to about 43–46°C, but bathing remains prohibited for safety reasons. However, you can enter the cave and admire the glowing water — the sight is magical, especially when sunlight falls through the cracks in the ceiling.

Námaskarð / Hverir — Mars on Earth

An alien-looking geothermal field at the foot of Námafjall Mountain (482 m), right on the Ring Road east of Mývatn. The landscape is so unreal that NASA actually tested Mars rovers here. What you see:

  • Mud pots (solfataras): Gray-brown, boiling mud bubbles and splashes upwards at regular intervals — like a pot of soup on the stove
  • Fumaroles: Hissing steam columns shooting out of cracks in the ground with pressure — they reach temperatures of over 200°C
  • Sulfur deposits: Bright yellow, orange, and white crystals cover the rocks like alien frost
  • The smell: Intense hydrogen sulfide (H₂S) — "rotten eggs" on steroids. You get used to it, but the first few minutes are intense

A circular trail (20–30 min.) leads through the area. Free and accessible year-round. The ground is hot enough in some places to melt shoe soles — stick to the marked paths!

Krafla — Volcanic Zone & Víti Crater

The Krafla Volcano (818 m) northeast of Mývatn is one of Iceland's most active volcanoes. The last eruption series — the Krafla Fires (Mývatn Fires) — lasted from 1975 to 1984 with nine individual eruptions. Lava fountains shot up to 100 meters high, and lava flows threatened the Krafla Geothermal Power Plant (which was still operated — Icelandic calmness!).

The highlight is the Víti Crater (Icelandic for "Hell"): A 320-meter-wide explosion crater formed during an eruption in 1724 and now filled with a bright milky-green lake. The color varies from turquoise to emerald green depending on sunlight and season. A hiking trail leads around the crater rim (20 min.).

On the way to the Krafla summit, you pass the Leirhnjúkur Lava Field — a still-steaming, only a few decades-old lava field with bizarre shapes, hot springs, and a Mars-like atmosphere. The hike through the lava field (4 km, 1–1.5h) is surreal: In some places, you can feel the warmth through your shoe soles.

Mývatn Nature Baths

The Mývatn Nature Baths (Jarðböðin við Mývatn) are North Iceland's answer to the Blue Lagoon — only without the mass tourism and with more authenticity. The milky-blue, mineral-rich water (36–40°C) lies in a steaming lava field with views over the lake and surrounding mountains.

The water contains natural minerals and sulfur, which are beneficial for the skin. There are two pools (different temperatures), a steam bath in a natural cave, and a terrace with drink service.

Entrance: 5,900 ISK (€39) — significantly cheaper than the Blue Lagoon. In winter: The combination of hot water, steam, and northern lights over the lake is one of the most unforgettable experiences in Iceland.

Achtung

The name "Midge Lake" is no coincidence! From June to August, the midges (small, non-biting gnats) can appear in swarms. A mosquito net for the head (buy in Akureyri, about 1,500 ISK) and insect-repellent clothing help. The midges are annoying but harmless — they don't bite. On windy days, they disappear completely.

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