Practical Tips

Westfjords — Logistics & Planning

Route	Distance	Travel Time	Road
Reykjavík → Ísafjörður (via Hólmavík)	460 km	6h	Partially unpaved
Ísafjörður → Dynjandi	80 km	1.5h	Unpaved
Ísafjörður → Látrabjarg	180 km	3.5h	Unpaved, narrow
Stykkishólmur → Brjánslækur (Ferry)	Ferry	2.5h	Baldur Ferry

Baldur Ferry — The Shortcut

The Baldur Ferry connects Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula with Brjánslækur in the Westfjords (2.5h journey, with a stop on the tiny island of Flatey). The ferry saves hundreds of kilometers of driving and offers spectacular views over the Breiðafjörður. Booking recommended, especially with a car (approx. 6,000 ISK/40€ per person, 10,000 ISK/67€ per car). The island Flatey (3 inhabitants in winter, about 15 in summer) is a gem: colorful wooden houses, a tiny church with modern frescoes by Baltasar Samper, and absolute silence. You can disembark on Flatey on the way there and reboard on the return trip.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula — Planning

• Day trip from Reykjavík: Possible, but strenuous (2h drive each way + 180 km peninsula circuit). Plan 12–14 hours
• Recommended: 2 days/1 night — Overnight in Grundarfjörður (near Kirkjufell), Ólafsvík, or Stykkishólmur. This way, you have time for the highlights without stress
• Accommodation: Hotel Framnes in Grundarfjörður (from 130€, with Kirkjufell view!), Hótel Búðir (luxury, from 280€, next to the black church), Fosshotel Stykkishólmur (from 150€)
• Dining: Bjargarsteinn Mathús in Grundarfjörður (fine dining with fjord view), Sjávarpakkhúsið in Stykkishólmur (fish restaurant in the old packing house)

Riding Course: Icelandic Horses on Snæfellsnes

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is one of the best places for horseback riding tours on Icelandic horses. Several farms offer tours — from one-hour rides (from 9,000 ISK/60€) to multi-day treks. You ride through lava fields, along the coast, and through green valleys, and the horses master the famous Tölt — the incredibly comfortable four-beat gait where you sit almost motionless in the saddle.

Recommended providers: Stóri-Kambur (near Grundarfjörður) and Lýsuhóll (in the southwest of the peninsula, with a hot spring!). No prior experience is necessary for short tours — the horses are good-natured and sure-footed.

Stykkishólmur — The Gateway to the Westfjords

Stykkishólmur (population: 1,200) on the north coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a picturesque fishing village with colorful houses on a hill, a sheltered harbor, and views of the islands of the Breiðafjörður. Fans know it as the filming location for "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty" (2013) with Ben Stiller — the scene where Walter Mitty climbs the lighthouse and enjoys the view over the fjord was filmed here.

In the Norska Húsið (Norwegian House, 1832) is the regional museum, and the Vatnshellir Library is one of Iceland's most beautiful small libraries. From Stykkishólmur, kayak tours start between the islands of the Breiðafjörður — one of the most peaceful experiences in Iceland.

Flatey — The Forgotten Island

The Baldur Ferry from Stykkishólmur to the Westfjords stops on the way at the tiny Flatey — a 2 km long island in the Breiðafjörður with only 5 (!) year-round residents. In summer, a few visitors come to wander through the meadows with wildflowers, admire the ceiling paintings in the tiny church (painted by the Catalan artist Baltasar Samper, 1962), and view the Flateyjarbók in the historic library — one of Iceland's most significant medieval manuscripts (the original is in Reykjavík, but a reproduction is displayed here).

Flatey has no cars, no Wi-Fi, and no supermarket. You can stay at the charming Hótel Flatey (the only accommodation, about 200€/night, reserve months in advance!) with its own restaurant serving local fish, mussels, and lamb. A stay on Flatey feels like time has stood still — the perfect contrast to the rest of an Iceland trip.