Chã das Caldeiras — Life in the Crater

Chã das Caldeiras is one of the most surreal places in the world: A village with about 1,000 inhabitants, right in the caldera of an active volcano, at 1,700 meters altitude, surrounded by black lava fields and dominated by the smoking Pico do Fogo. Here live people who have accepted the volcano as a neighbor — and produce the best wines and cheese in Cape Verde.

Wine on Lava

Perhaps the most astonishing fact about Chã das Caldeiras: Wine grows on the volcanic soil. The vines (mainly the Portuguese variety Castelão) root in the mineral-rich volcanic ash and benefit from the cool nights and warm days at 1,700 meters. The result is a robust, mineral-rich red wine — the Manecom and the Chã — which ranks among the best wines in West Africa. The small Adega do Fogo (winery) can be visited, including a tasting. A bottle costs 5–10€ and is a unique souvenir.

After the 2014 Eruption

In November 2014, the Pico do Fogo erupted after 19 years of dormancy. A new lava flow ran directly through the village of Portela, destroying dozens of houses, the school, and the winery. The residents were evacuated — but they returned as soon as the lava cooled. Today, new houses stand next to the solidified lava, which has partially flowed through the windows and doors of the old houses. The ruins are a ghostly memorial to the power of nature — and the fact that people still live here is a testament to the indomitable Cape Verdean spirit.

What You Can Do in Chã das Caldeiras

• Pico Climb: The main reason for visiting. All tours start here.
• Wine Tasting: Visit Adega do Fogo and taste the unique volcanic wine.
• Try Cheese: Queijo de Cabra (goat cheese) from Chã is the best in Cape Verde — spicy, firm, and fantastic.
• Lava Walk: Hike through the fresh lava fields of the 2014 eruption. The bizarre landscape of solidified Pahoehoe and Aa lava is geologically fascinating.
• Overnight Stay: Stay in one of the simple guesthouses in the village (20–35€/double room). The starry sky at 1,700 meters, without light pollution, is breathtaking. And seeing the sunrise over the Pico in the morning, with a cup of coffee in hand, is one of those moments you won't forget.