Southern Norway & Fjells

Kristiansand (about 115,000 inhabitants) is Norway's fifth-largest city and the gateway to the south. The city is known for its grid layout (checkerboard pattern, laid out by Christian IV in 1641), the city beach Bystranda, and the wooden house settlement Posebyen — Northern Europe's largest contiguous settlement of white wooden houses.

Highlights

• Dyreparken (Kristiansand Zoo): Norway's most popular amusement park — zoo with Scandinavian animals (moose, wolves, lynxes), amusement park, and Kardemomme By (Kardemomme Town, after the children's book by Thorbjørn Egner). Perfect for families. Day ticket: 559 NOK (49 €).
• Fiskebrygga: The fisher houses at the harbor — now restaurants, bars, and the best place for fresh fish and shrimp.
• Sørlandskysten (South Coast): The coast between Kristiansand and Stavanger is Norway's summer paradise: white wooden houses, archipelago gardens, small harbors, warm (relatively!) water. Places like Mandal (Norway's southernmost town, 800 m sandy beach Sjøsanden), Grimstad (Ibsen's youth town, charming) and Risør (the "white jewel on the Skagerrak") are insider tips.
• Lindesnes Fyr: Norway's southernmost point — the lighthouse (since 1656, Norway's oldest) marks the counterpart to the North Cape. 2,518 km lie between them. Nearby: the underwater restaurant Under — Europe's first, spectacular architecture, 18-course menu from 2,850 NOK (248 €).

The Setesdal is one of Norway's most traditional valleys: Here, the old rural culture has been best preserved. The valley stretches from Kristiansand northward, along the Otra River, through increasingly wild landscapes up to the plateau.

What Makes Setesdal Special

• Silversmithing: The Setesdal silver filigree work (Sølvsmedkunst) is UNESCO intangible cultural heritage. In Valle and Bykle, there are workshops where traditional methods are still used.
• Costumes (Bunad): The Setesdal costume is one of Norway's oldest and most magnificent — especially the men's costume with white shirts and embroidered vests. In summer, they are worn at festivals and church services.
• Setesdalsmuseet (Valle): Open-air museum with historic farms from the 17th–19th centuries. Craft demonstrations in summer.
• Mineral Park Evje: One of the most mineral-rich areas in Northern Europe — prospecting and collecting for the whole family. The pegmatite of Setesdal is world-famous among geologists.
• Brokke–Suleskarvegen: Dramatic mountain road (summer only) from Bykle over the plateau to Sirdal — one of the wildest and loneliest roads in Southern Norway. Reindeer, mountain lakes, absolute silence.

The Jotunheimen National Park is the roof of Scandinavia: Here lie the two highest mountains in Northern Europe — Galdhøpiggen (2,469 m) and Glittertind (2,465 m) — as well as over 250 peaks above 2,000 meters. "Jotunheimen" means "Home of the Giants" (from Norse mythology), and the landscape is indeed gigantic: glaciers, peaks, deep valleys, and crystal-clear lakes.

The Great Hikes

• Besseggen: Norway's most famous day hike — a narrow ridge between the emerald green Lake Gjende and the blue-black Lake Bessvatnet. 14 km, 6–8 hours, moderate difficulty. The narrow point is only 2 meters wide, with steep drops on both sides — spectacular, but not for the faint-hearted. Boat across Lake Gjende to the starting point (Memurubu).
• Galdhøpiggen: Norway's highest mountain can be climbed via various routes. The route from Spiterstulen (4–5 hours round trip, glacier crossing — only with a guide) or the easier route from Juvasshytta (2–3 hours, without glacier).
• Hurrungane: The "Alps of Norway" — wild, steep peaks for experienced mountaineers. Store Skagastølstind (2,405 m) is Norway's third largest and technically most challenging peak.

DNT Huts

The Den Norske Turistforening (DNT) — Norway's hiking association — operates a network of serviced and unserviced huts in Jotunheimen. The most famous: Gjendesheim, Memurubu, Fondsbu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen. Serviced huts offer warm meals, dormitory beds, and a cozy atmosphere. Overnight stay from 350 NOK (30 €) for members, 550 NOK (50 €) for non-members.

Rondane was Norway's first national park in 1962 — and remains one of the most beautiful. Gentler than Jotunheimen, with vast plateaus, moss-covered areas, wild reindeer herds, and ten peaks over 2,000 meters. The landscape resembles Tolkien's Middle-earth — no wonder Peer Gynt had his adventures here (Henrik Ibsen was inspired by Rondane).

Hiking

• Rondvassbu: The starting point for most hikes. Beautiful DNT hut on Lake Rondvatnet. From here: Storronden (2,138 m, 4–5 hours), Rondeslottet (2,178 m, 6–7 hours), or the circular tour over several peaks.
• Peer Gynt Trail: Multi-day hike through the landscape that inspired Ibsen's most famous work. DNT huts along the way.

Wild Reindeer

Rondane is home to one of the last wild reindeer herds in Europe (about 2,000–3,000 animals). In autumn (September–October), the chance to see them is greatest — large herds roam the plateaus. Please keep a distance (at least 200 meters) and do not disturb them.

The Telemark is the cradle of modern skiing — in Morgedal, Sondre Norheim invented the Telemark turn in the 19th century, and the first organized ski races were held here in 1868. But the region offers much more than ski history:

Highlights

• Telemark Canal: A technical masterpiece from the 19th century: 18 locks overcome 72 meters of elevation over 105 kilometers between Skien and Dalen. The historic locks are still operated by hand today. The canal boat ride (MS Victoria from 1882 or MS Henrik Ibsen) takes 8–10 hours and is a journey through time. Day ticket from 650 NOK (57 €).
• Rjukan & Vemork: Here stands the former heavy water plant, sabotaged by Norwegian resistance fighters during World War II (Operation Gunnerside) — one of the bravest operations of the war, filmed as "The Heroes of Telemark" and as the Netflix series "Kampen om Tungtvannet". The Norwegian Industrial Workers Museum in Vemork tells the story compellingly. Rjukan itself is located in such a deep valley that the sun does not shine in during winter — in 2013, mirrors were installed to reflect sunlight onto the market square.
• Gaustatoppen (1,883 m): The most beautiful viewpoint mountain in Southern Norway — on a clear day, you can supposedly see one-sixth of Norway's land area. Inside the mountain: the Gaustabanen, a secret NATO funicular from the Cold War, 1,040 meters of elevation in 15 minutes. Now open to the public.
• Heddal Stave Church: The largest preserved stave church in Norway (around 1250). Three naves, dragon heads, rosette ornaments — a masterpiece of medieval wooden architecture. 120 NOK (10 €).

The Rallarvegen (Rallarvegen/Navvies' Road) is a former construction road of the Bergen Railway and today Norway's most famous cycling route: 82 kilometers from Haugastøl (on the Hardangervidda, 988 m) over Finse (1,222 m — Norway's highest railway station, known as a filming location for Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back) down to Flåm on the Aurlandsfjord.

The Route

• Haugastøl to Finse (27 km): Flat across the barren plateau, past lakes and glaciers. Arctic vegetation, wide views, possible headwinds.
• Finse to Myrdal (17 km): The most beautiful and wildest section. Past the Hardangerjøkulen glacier, through tunnels and over bridges. Snowfields until July.
• Myrdal to Flåm (38 km): The spectacular descent: From 866 m to sea level, past the Kjosfossen waterfall (otherwise only seen from the Flåmsbana), through green valleys to the fjord. 21 hairpin bends!

Practical Information

• Season: Mid-July to mid-September (often snow on the plateau before then)
• Duration: 1–2 days (athletic in one day, relaxed with an overnight stay in Finse)
• Bike Rental: In Haugastøl and Finse (from 400 NOK / 36 € per day). Book in advance!
• Return Transport: From Flåm with the Flåmsbana to Myrdal, then with the Bergen Railway back to Haugastøl or onward to Bergen/Oslo