Cebu & Bohol

Cebu City is the second-largest city in the Philippines and the gateway to the Visayas. Most travelers use it as a transit station — and that's okay. But those with half a day to spare will find a few worthwhile stops.

The Basilica del Santo Niño (1565) houses the oldest Christian relic in the Philippines — a figure of the Child Jesus, which Ferdinand Magellan presented to Queen Juana in 1521 as a baptismal gift. Next door stands the Magellan's Cross, said to have been erected at this spot in 1521. It marks the beginning of the Christianization of the Philippines.

The Fort San Pedro (1738) is the oldest Spanish fortification in the country — small but charming. The Carbon Market is Cebu's oldest and most chaotic market: piles of tropical fruits, dried fish, textiles, and an authentic glimpse into everyday Filipino life.

For food: Larsian BBQ is an open-air grill market where you choose your grill stand and order meat skewers, seafood, and rice for next to nothing. Cebu is also the home of Lechon — the famous Filipino roasted pig. The Zubuchon chain (praised by Anthony Bourdain as “best pig ever") is the best address.

In Oslob on the southeast coast of Cebu, you can swim with whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) every morning — the largest fish in the world, up to 12 meters long and completely harmless. The animals come daily to the shallow bay because local fishermen feed them with krill. And that's the crux.

The Experience

In the morning, you are taken out on a Bangka boat (the whale sharks are only 50 meters from the shore) and swim or snorkel for 30 minutes alongside these gentle giants. The animals glide majestically through the water, opening their massive mouths to filter plankton, and come so close that you can see the patterns on their skin. It's an experience that gives you goosebumps.

The Controversy

The feeding alters the natural behavior of the whale sharks: They forget to migrate, become dependent on the feeding, and are increasingly exposed to boat propellers. Marine biological organizations advise against visiting Oslob. At the same time, tourism has greatly helped the impoverished fishing village economically — over 1,000 families now live from it.

Whether to go or not is a personal decision. The ethically unproblematic alternative: Donsol (Sorsogon, South Luzon), where whale sharks naturally pass by in season (November–June) without feeding. However, sightings there are not guaranteed.

Moalboal on the west coast of Cebu is one of the best snorkeling spots in the world — and it's completely free directly from the beach. In front of Panagsama Beach, a permanent swarm of millions of sardines has settled — a silver tornado in the water that spins, splits, and rejoins as you swim through it. It's a natural spectacle usually only seen in expensive BBC documentaries.

Additionally, there are sea turtles (hawksbill and green sea turtles) that feast on the seagrass in front of the beach and glide past you at arm's length while snorkeling. Plus a colorful coral reef that begins right at the cliff edge (drop-off) — from 2 meters deep it drops vertically to 30 meters. Perfect for diving and snorkeling alike.

Moalboal has evolved from a backpacker secret to a popular diving destination. The atmosphere is relaxed, the prices reasonable, and the underwater world is world-class. At night, the Panagsama waterfront transforms into a cozy bar strip — live music, San Miguel Beer, and fresh fish from the grill.

The Kawasan Falls are the most famous waterfalls in the Philippines — three cascades pouring into turquoise natural pools, framed by dense tropical forest. The water has an unreal blue color, stemming from the minerals in the limestone.

Even more exciting than the waterfalls themselves is the canyoneering — a full-day adventure where you make your way from Badian through gorges, natural water slides, and cliffs to the Kawasan Falls. This includes:

• Cliff jumping: From 3 to 15 meters — you choose your height. The water is deep enough and crystal clear.
• Natural water slides: Smooth rock formations over which you slide into the water.
• Swimming through gorges: Through narrow rock crevices where the water glows emerald green.
• Rappelling (optional): Rappel along a waterfall.

The canyoneering lasts 3–5 hours and ends at the Kawasan Falls, where you can relax in the pool. A local guide is mandatory (and included in the price). Life jacket, helmet, and waterproof bag are provided. You don't have to be super fit, but you should be able to swim and have some courage for jumping.

Bohol is the neighboring island of Cebu — 2 hours by FastCraft ferry from Cebu City (from 500 PHP). Here await three of the most iconic sights in the Philippines:

Chocolate Hills

1,268 perfectly conical hills spread over an area of 50 square kilometers. In the dry season (February–May), the grass dries out and the hills turn chocolate brown — hence the name. In the rainy season, they are lush green, which also looks spectacular. The formation is geologically disputed: likely uplifted coral reefs shaped by rain and wind over millions of years. The best viewpoint is the Carmen Observation Deck — 214 steps up, but the 360° view is worth it.

Tarsier

The Philippine Tarsiers are one of the smallest primates in the world — only 8–16 centimeters tall, with huge eyes that glow at night. They are extremely shy and stress-sensitive. Visit only the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary in Corella — here the animals are protected in their natural habitat. Avoid the tourist “Tarsier Farms," where the animals are kept for photos (recognizable by being allowed to touch or photograph them with flash). Strict rules apply in the sanctuary: No flash, no noise, no touching, minimum distance of 1 meter.

Panglao Island — Beaches

The island of Panglao is connected to Bohol by a bridge and offers the best beaches in the region. Alona Beach is the main tourist beach: dive shops, restaurants, nightlife, and island-hopping tours to Balicasag Island (excellent snorkeling with turtles and a spectacular drop-off). Quieter and more beautiful is Dumaluan Beach — wider, fewer bars, fine sand.

A Countryside Tour (day trip by tricycle or van) combines the Chocolate Hills, the Tarsier Station, the Loboc River Cruise (boat trip with buffet lunch on the river, 550 PHP), the Baclayon Church (1596, one of the oldest stone churches in the Philippines), and the hanging bridges over the river. All doable in one day.

The tiny island of Malapascua (2.5 km long, 1 km wide) lies off the northern tip of Cebu and is the only place in the world where you can almost daily see thresher sharks. These elegant sharks with their characteristic, elongated tail fin come every morning to the cleaning stations on the underwater mountain Monad Shoal to be cleaned by small cleaner fish.

The dive begins at 5:00 AM (yes, really) — you board the boat in the dark, travel 30 minutes to the dive site, and wait at 20–25 meters depth until the sharks appear. The sighting rate is over 90%. The thresher sharks are shy and keep their distance, but the encounter at dawn, when the first light breaks through the water and these majestic creatures glide silently by, is one of the most emotional diving experiences worldwide.

Malapascua also offers excellent diving beyond the sharks: Gato Island (underwater cave with banded sea snakes), Kalanggaman Island (perfect sandbank for snorkeling and relaxing), and the Dona Marilyn Wreck (passenger ship that sank in 1988). The island itself is car-free, charming, and relaxed — Bounty Beach in the south is the main beach.