Manila

Intramuros (Latin: "within the walls") is the historical heart of Manila — a 64-hectare fortified city that the Spanish established in 1571 as the administrative center of their colony. For 333 years, this was the power center of Spanish rule over the Philippines. The massive stone walls (up to 6.7 meters thick) enclosed churches, monasteries, the governor's palace, and the houses of the Spanish elite.

During World War II, Intramuros was almost completely destroyed in the Battle of Manila (1945) — one of the most brutal urban battles of the war with over 100,000 civilian casualties. What stands today is mostly reconstructed, but the atmosphere is unique: cobblestones, horse-drawn carriages (Kalesa), monumental churches, and a silence that contrasts with the chaos outside.

The San Agustin Church (1607) is the oldest stone church in the Philippines and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its Baroque interior with trompe-l'oeil ceiling paintings is breathtaking. Next to it lies Fort Santiago, the citadel at the mouth of the Pasig River, where national hero José Rizal was imprisoned before his execution in 1896. The Rizal Shrine Museum in the fortress displays his last writings and the path to the execution site — emotionally and historically captivating.

The best way to explore Intramuros is by bamboo bicycle (Bambike Ecotours, from 700 PHP/~11 € for 2 hours) or on foot. The Manila Cathedral was destroyed eight times and rebuilt eight times — a symbol of the city's resilience.

The Rizal Park (also Luneta Park) is Manila's green lung and the symbolic center of the nation. Here, on December 30, 1896, national hero José Rizal was executed by the Spanish — an event that sparked the Philippine Revolution. His monument and grave are guarded by an honor guard and are an almost sacred place for Filipinos.

The park spans 58 hectares and offers, in addition to the Rizal Monument, a Japanese and Chinese garden, an orchid garden, the National Museum of the Philippines (free admission!), and the planetarium. On weekends, the park transforms into a folk festival: families picnic, street performers perform, and young couples stroll hand in hand.

The National Museum is a must-visit: The National Museum of Fine Arts houses Juan Luna's monumental painting "Spoliarium" (1884) — a masterpiece depicting the pain under Spanish colonial rule and considered one of the most significant artworks in Southeast Asia. Admission has been free since 2014 — a rare generosity that should be taken advantage of.

Binondo was founded in 1594 by the Spanish as a settlement for Christianized Chinese — making it the oldest Chinatown in the world, older than any in San Francisco, New York, or London. For over 400 years, the heart of the Chinese-Filipino community has pulsed here, significantly shaping the country's economy and culture.

The best access is via the Jones Bridge or by Jeepney. The district is a labyrinth of narrow alleys lined with gold shops, herbal stores, temples, and above all, restaurants. The culinary diversity is overwhelming:

• Dong Bei Dumplings — The best handmade dumplings in Manila, folded before the guests' eyes
• Eng Bee Tin — Famous for Hopia (filled mooncakes), since 1912
• Ongpin Street — The main street with dim sum restaurants and noodle soup shops
• Quik Snack — Legendary Siopao (steamed buns with meat filling)

The Binondo Church (Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz, founded in 1596) is the oldest parish church of the Filipino-Chinese community. The Octagonal Belltower is a landmark of the district. Behind it lies the bustling Divisoria Market — the largest and most chaotic market in Manila, where you can buy everything you need (and much you don't need) at prices that are absurdly cheap even by Filipino standards.

Anyone who thinks Manila is only chaos and colonial history hasn't seen Makati and Bonifacio Global City (BGC). These two districts are the modern, affluent face of the Philippines — with skyscrapers, top-notch restaurants, international hotel chains, and infrastructure that can compete with Singapore.

Makati is the financial and business center of the Philippines. The Ayala Triangle Garden offers a green oasis between the office towers. The Greenbelt Mall and Glorietta are upscale shopping centers with international offerings. At night, the Poblacion area transforms into Makati's nightlife district: rooftop bars, craft beer pubs, cocktail bars, and live music in converted old buildings.

BGC (Taguig City) is the newest development — a planned city on the former military grounds of Fort Bonifacio. Wide sidewalks (a sensation in Manila!), street art, parks, bike paths, and dozens of international restaurants. The High Street area is lively in the evenings, the Venice Grand Canal Mall offers a curious replica of Venetian canals (including gondola rides), and the Mind Museum is Manila's best science museum.

For travelers, Makati and BGC are ideal as a base for the first and last night: good hotels, safe area, excellent food, and easy airport transfer. The contrast to the rest of Manila is striking — and provides insight into the growing Filipino middle class.

Manila's food scene is one of the most exciting in Southeast Asia — from street stalls with Isaw (grilled chicken intestines) to restaurants listed in Asia's 50 Best.

Street Food Must-Tries

• Isaw & Betamax — Grilled chicken intestines and blood blocks on skewers. Sounds unusual, tastes great with soy sauce-vinegar dip. From 5 PHP per skewer.
• Kwek-Kwek — Quail eggs fried in orange batter. The perfect snack in between. 15 PHP for 4 pieces.
• Balut — The most notorious street food in the Philippines: a fertilized duck egg with embryo. The ultimate test of courage for travelers. Available at almost every street stall for 20 PHP.
• Halo-Halo — Crushed ice with beans, coconut gel, leche flan, ube ice cream, and milk. Filipinos' best dessert, perfect against the heat. From 60 PHP.
• Sizzling Sisig — Chopped pork (face and ears!) on a sizzling hot plate with egg and chili. Served with rice and San Miguel — Manila's national dish. From 120 PHP.

Nightlife

Manila's nightlife is concentrated in three districts:

• Poblacion (Makati): The hip nightlife district with rooftop bars, speakeasies, and live music. Z Bar, Oto, and Polilya are the current hotspots.
• BGC: More upscale bars and clubs along High Street and Uptown Parade. Palace Pool Club for the party enthusiasts.
• Quezon City: Local and alternative. Cubao Expo is a complex of vintage shops and indie bars, Fred's Revolucion for live music.

And of course: Karaoke. The Philippines is the karaoke nation par excellence. There is a karaoke machine on every street, and Filipinos sing with a passion and vocal power that gives you goosebumps. Singing along is a must — no matter how bad you are. The Filipinos will cheer you on.