Faro & Ria Formosa

Faro is the gateway to the Algarve — and one of Portugal's most underrated cities. Most tourists rush from the airport straight to the beaches, without giving the region's capital a glance. A mistake: Faro's Cidade Velha (Old Town), surrounded by medieval walls from the Moorish era, is a quiet gem with cobblestone streets, baroque churches, and an atmosphere reminiscent of Lisbon before the tourist boom.

The entrance to the Old Town through the Arco da Vila (18th century, with a stork's nest on the tower — Faro is famous for its storks) leads directly to the Largo da Sé, the quiet square in front of the cathedral. The Sé de Faro (entry €3.50) is an architectural patchwork of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque — a result of the numerous earthquakes that have destroyed the city over the centuries. From the church tower, you have the best view of the Old Town and the Ria Formosa.

The Igreja do Carmo (entry €3) on the edge of the Old Town houses a macabre attraction: the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), whose walls and ceiling are completely lined with the skulls and bones of over 1,200 monks — a baroque memento mori meant to remind us of the transience of life. Similar to Évora, but more intimate and less crowded.

The true highlight of Faro lies beyond the city: the Ria Formosa, a 60 km long system of lagoons, sandbanks, salt marshes, and barrier islands — one of Europe's most important wetlands and home to over 200 bird species, including flamingos, stilts, and the rare purple heron. Boat tours from Faro's harbor (from €25, 2-4 hours) go to the barrier islands, where deserted sandy beaches await: The Ilha Deserta (Barreta) is, as the name suggests, almost deserted — just one restaurant and kilometers of white sand. The Ilha de Faro is more easily accessible (Bus 16 from the airport, 15 min.) and has a lively beach bar scene.

Culinarily, Faro is a hidden gem: At the Mercado Municipal (Largo Dr. Francisco Sá Carneiro), locals buy fresh fish, fruits, and cheese — the small bar inside serves the freshest fish in town as a lunch menu (Prato do Dia from €8). In the evening, Faz Gostos (Rua do Castelo 13, in the Old Town) is recommended for creative Algarve cuisine in a restored Old Town house (main courses €16-22).