Funchal & Old Town

Funchal is the heart of Madeira — a city that clings like an amphitheater to the mountain slopes above the harbor. About 110,000 inhabitants live here, about half of the entire island population. The name comes from "funcho" (fennel), which grew wild here when it was discovered in 1419. Today, Funchal is a surprisingly cosmopolitan city with excellent restaurants, lively markets, and an old town full of street art and character.

The centerpiece is the Mercado dos Lavradores — the Art Deco market hall from 1940, a feast for all senses. On the ground floor, exotic fruits pile up that are not found on the European mainland: Annona (Cherimoya), passion fruit bananas, Tamarillo, and the tiny, sweet Madeira bananas. On the upper floor: fresh fish (including the black scabbardfish Espada, Madeira's specialty), flowers, and handmade wickerwork. Be sure to accept the free fruit samples, but beware: The vendors often try to sell overpriced fruit packages afterward.

The Zona Velha (Old Town) around Rua de Santa Maria is Funchal's hippest district. Since the "Portas Abertas" project (2010), over 200 artists have transformed the doors of the old houses into colorful artworks — a walkable open-air museum. Here, tapas bars, Fado venues, and restaurants line up. In the evenings, the atmosphere is fantastic.

The Sé Catedral (1514) is one of the few original preserved Manueline churches in Portugal — especially the Mudéjar wooden ceiling (Moorish influenced, inlaid with ivory) is considered a masterpiece. Free entry. Right next door, the Museu de Arte Sacra (3 €) is worth a visit, with Flemish paintings from the 15th/16th centuries, once traded for sugar.

Plan at least 1.5 days for Funchal — half a day for the market and the old town, half a day for the cable car to Monte (see wicker toboggan ride), and time for the restaurant scene in the evening.