Regionen · Kapitel 6
By the HolidayGenie editorial team ·
The Lesser Town (Malá Strana) is Prague's baroque jewel—a district of palace gardens, cobblestone streets, hidden beer gardens, and the famous Lennon Wall. Located at the foot of Prague Castle, between the Vltava River and Petřín Hill, it is more romantic than any film set.
Discovering the Lesser Town
The Malá Strana (Lesser Town) was founded in the 13th century as an independent city below the castle and completely rebuilt in the Renaissance and Baroque style after a fire in 1541. Today, it is an ensemble of palaces, churches, winding alleys, and gardens that seems unchanged for 300 years. In fact, the Lesser Town is one of the best-preserved baroque districts in Europe.
Lesser Town Square (Malostranské náměstí)
The central square of the Lesser Town, dominated by the St. Nicholas Church (Kostel sv. Mikuláše)—the baroque masterpiece of the Dientzenhofer family. The square is surrounded by restaurants, cafés, and palaces and is much quieter than the Old Town Square. From here, alleys lead in all directions: up to the castle (Nerudova), down to the Vltava (Mostecká), and into hidden courtyards.
Nerudova Street
The Nerudova is Prague's most photogenic street: steep, cobblestoned, and lined with baroque houses with elaborate house signs—before houses were numbered, they had symbols: "At the Two Suns" (No. 47, birthplace of the poet Jan Neruda), "At the Golden Chalice," "At the Three Violins." The street leads steeply up to the castle—strenuous, but architecturally a feast.
St. Nicholas Church (Kostel sv. Mikuláše)
The St. Nicholas Church on the Lesser Town Square is Prague's most significant baroque building and one of the most important north of the Alps. The Dientzenhofer family (father and son) worked on this building for 80 years (1673–1752)—the result is an explosion of baroque splendor: ceiling frescoes, marble columns, gilded statues, and a dome that looks like a door to heaven from the inside.
What is there to see?
- The Dome: With a diameter of 20 meters and the ceiling fresco "Glorification of St. Nicholas" by Johann Lukas Kracker, it is one of the most impressive church spaces in Europe. The fresco's area: 1,500 m²—one of the largest single frescoes on the continent.
- The Bell Tower: You can climb the 65-meter-high tower (215 steps)—the view over the Lesser Town and the Vltava is spectacular. During the Cold War, the secret police StB used the tower to monitor embassies. Tower admission: 100 CZK.
- Concerts: In the evenings, classical concerts are held in the church—Vivaldi, Mozart, Dvořák, played in this acoustic wonder room. Tickets: from 490 CZK (20€). An experience.
Lennon Wall & Kampa Island
Lennon Wall
The Lennon Wall (Lennonova zeď) in Velkopřevorské náměstí is one of Prague's most photographed attractions—and a symbol of peace and freedom. Since the 1980s, the wall of a Maltese Order palace has been painted with graffiti, Beatles lyrics, peace messages, and political slogans. During communism, it was a place of silent protest—the authorities repeatedly painted over it, but it was always rewritten. Today, it changes daily—bring a pen and leave your message.
Kampa Island
The Kampa is a small island separated from the Lesser Town by the Čertovka Canal (Devil's Stream). An idyllic park right by the Vltava with views of the Charles Bridge from below, modern sculptures (David Černý's crawling babies), waterfront cafés, and the Museum Kampa (modern Czech and Central European art, especially Cubism). Kampa is Prague's most romantic spot—perfect for a sunset stroll.
Čertovka — The Devil's Stream
The narrow canal that separates Kampa from the Lesser Town is also called "Prague's Venice"—an exaggeration, but the old mills, low bridges, and babbling water have their own charm. Best photographed from the bridge at Grand Priory Square.
Petřín Hill & Observation Tower
The Petřín (327 m) is Prague's green hill—a park with fruit trees, rose gardens, a mirror maze, and the famous observation tower. Accessible from the Lesser Town by funicular (Lanová dráha) or on foot through the park (20–30 minutes ascent).
Petřín Observation Tower (Petřínská rozhledna)
Built in 1891 for the Jubilee Exhibition, the tower is a smaller replica of the Eiffel Tower—63.5 meters high, made of steel, with 299 steps (no elevator!). From the observation platform, there is a 360° panorama over all of Prague: the castle, the Vltava bridges, the old town, and on clear days, the Bohemian mountains. Admission: 150 CZK (6€).
Mirror Maze (Zrcadlové bludiště)
Right next to the observation tower: a maze of distortion mirrors in a neo-gothic pavilion. Kitschy, silly, and wonderful—especially with children. Admission: 75 CZK.
Funicular (Lanová dráha)
The Petřín funicular runs from the Újezd stop (Tram 6, 9, 22) up the hill in 4 minutes. It is considered public transport—the regular public transport ticket or day pass is valid! Operating hours: 9–23:30.
Tipp
The best Petřín strategy: take the funicular up (free with a public transport ticket), climb the observation tower, then walk down through the park to the Lesser Town. Along the way: rose garden, mirror maze, and the Hunger Wall (medieval city wall). The view from the tower is most beautiful at sunset.
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